Superscan811 wrote:How much wider is the auto trans tunnel compared to the manual?
Trying to give a measurement on something that's not square is not fun.
Measurements taken a firewall:
- auto tunnel at widest point 360mm
- manual tunnel at widest point 340mm and 240mm at widest part of the start of the smaller section.
Measurements taken from kick panel at base of brake pedal height:
- tunnel side of clutch pedal 370mm
- pedal side of auto tunnel 440mm
- pedal side of manual tunnel 520mm
Auto tunnel:
Manual tunnel:
I've contacted the engineer I'm using:
Me: My problem is: The Galant wagon shell is an auto shell, and with a manual pedal set there is not enough room for my left foot to go beside the pedal.
My Question is: Is it legal to cut the floor and make a bolt in/out panel (reinforcing around the area where the panel is of course), or is it an absolute no no, to cut the floor?
Is my only option to massage the area using panel beating to solve the problem?
Answer: It is fine to modify the floor providing that, where necessary, any structural elements such as box sections are reinforced to compensate.
Me: Excuse my inexperience here, but if I cut and weld the floor, I would require a certificate yes?
How difficult would it be for me to obtain one, if the modification is done by myself (non ticketed welder) in my garage?
Would the other option of massaging (panel beating) the floor require a certification ticket? Or cause me any hassles towards registration?
Answer: Panel beating a single layer panel would not require certification. It's a somewhat grey area, but cutting and welding probably would.. If the vehicle requires certification for the engine conversion, this modification would normally be listed on the certificate and hence covered.
Even if the vehicle didn't require certification, I wouldn't expect panel beating of a single layer panel in this area to cause any problems for the blue slip.
So from this I am leaning towards cutting out a section, and making a bolt in bolt out panel, that is reinforced around the hole. I picture a small 90 degree return around the edge of the hole for a bit more strength, a 10 to 20mm strip of metal doubling up around the hole (body steel thickness or thicker) with captured nuts, and similar for the removable panel, but obviously with holes for bolts, not captured nuts.
Does this sound feasible?
Dave...