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ok seems the head is ok... my original diagnosis was wrong haha.

so in the mean time car has been sitting there.... and ive only just got around to doing something about it.

Turns out electric fuel pumps well the one i have runs 8 psi, where as carbs run under 4 psi...

2 cylinders were down, and 3 and 4 were the only ones getting spark... so bought the following to fix the troubles ive been having;

- Fuel regulator, one that i can change a valve on from 1-5 psi. plenty.
- New spark plugs
- New Roter button for dizzy
- New dizzy cap

$200 later and still not fixed... grrr...



^ how the bays looking.


^ wiring + New fuel regulator amongst other bits and pieces.

GC75 wrote:so bought the following to fix the troubles ive been having;

- Fuel regulator, one that i can change a valve on from 1-5 psi. plenty.
- New spark plugs
- New Roter button for dizzy
- New dizzy cap

$200 later and still not fixed... grrr...

so its still not getting spark to 1 and 2 or is there somthing else wrong now? friggin car troubles

M.B

Nah sorry should have mentioned played round with the dizzy and spark plugs got em all firing still ran like shit though?

Are you running your transformer coil without a resistor? Anyone know if that'll give you any grief? P.s. I scored the same type of twin carb set up, can't wait to hear your feedback on how they work!

as im aware no??

will do i got a video of them working on my facebook

I'd double check the timing.
Spray some starter spray and test for a vacuum leak on the intake.
Then do a compression test.

I was reading back through some of your posts trying to work out what is the problem.
Is it running rough at idle and feeling like it has a flat spot at low rpm?

See the solenoid on the right side on the front carb.

It's a fuel cut solenoid, without it connected they run really rough at idle and low rpm.
What do you have the wire connected to?

Dave...

Car only runs when fuel is poured in the carb or using carby cleaner, has a spark problem seems that is fixed now and i am getting power everywhere im supposed to checked all that today... starting to think pressure of the fuel line isnt accurate despite the regulator... prob need to pull the tank out give it a clean, check all the lines... if then it doesnt work im looking at dizzy fluculator or ballast resistor so im told???

I checked that today, checked its power and it is getting power and working... its connected and running... i can feel the solenoid working when i power on.

got me and my brother stumped as to why it isnt bloody working

Are the carbies balanced to each other?

Dave...

as im aware yes? haha

75wagon wrote:I was reading back through some of your posts trying to work out what is the problem.
Is it running rough at idle and feeling like it has a flat spot at low rpm?

See the solenoid on the right side on the front carb.

It's a fuel cut solenoid, without it connected they run really rough at idle and low rpm.
What do you have the wire connected to?

Dave...

actually Dave if the solenoid is not connected or not working the car wont start at all I only know this from experience cheers Chris

well i can rule that out then i checked it with the test light anyways..

I've just noticed something on your carby set up that is different from mine- your first carb doesn't have a return line outlet on it. Can you remove the bung that's blocking the outlet and find an outlet from an old carb and set it up? Feed back please from other more experienced site users on whether or not this action would have any impact on the problem.

crystalmeths wrote:actually Dave if the solenoid is not connected or not working the car wont start at all I only know this from experience cheers Chris

My old GB used to have a problem with the solenoid falling out as the screw hole was stripped. It used to start but ran really rough on idle and low rpm. The solenoid is fuel cut off solenoid and only affects idle speeds. I ended up doing a dodgy repair and using a bit of tie wire to hold the solenoid the the carb body. The repair was rough as guts, but the motor idled beautifully after that.

GC75 wrote:as im aware yes?

The way I set mine up is to remove the rod assembly off both carbs. Set the idle low, and then block the top of each carb off (one at a time) to check for changes in mixture settings between the 2 carbs. Once they match refit the rod assembly and check again. If the rod assembly is out of adjustment, you'll have one carb doing more work then the other and it will run badly.




Dave...

Dave, you are legendary. Where did you get that exploded view assembly diagram from? I am never taking these things apart, one carby is headache enough...

75wagon wrote:

crystalmeths wrote:actually Dave if the solenoid is not connected or not working the car wont start at all I only know this from experience cheers Chris

My old GB used to have a problem with the solenoid falling out as the screw hole was stripped. It used to start but ran really rough on idle and low rpm. The solenoid is fuel cut off solenoid and only affects idle speeds. I ended up doing a dodgy repair and using a bit of tie wire to hold the solenoid the the carb body. The repair was rough as guts, but the motor idled beautifully after that.

GC75 wrote:as im aware yes?

The way I set mine up is to remove the rod assembly off both carbs. Set the idle low, and then block the top of each carb off (one at a time) to check for changes in mixture settings between the 2 carbs. Once they match refit the rod assembly and check again. If the rod assembly is out of adjustment, you'll have one carb doing more work then the other and it will run badly.




Dave...

well I cant argue with that

GC75 wrote:starting to think pressure of the fuel line isnt accurate despite the regulator

Pull the top off both carbs and check the float level of the fuel.
If it's where it's meant to be then the fuel pump etc is fine.

To help fault find (& get a ball park area for balancing the carbs), remove dizzy leads 3&4, this lets you check the front 2 cylinders. then re-fit leads and remove the front 2, allowing you to check the rear two.
Compare what you find for each carb.

Also, what ignition module are you running? From experience, they can do some bloody weird things when they are on their way out, and can have you scratching your head for ages...

Pull the top off both carbs and check the float level of the fuel.
If it's where it's meant to be then the fuel pump etc is fine.

i can check float level through the site glass right?? its not in the middle, i presume middle is level.

Also, what ignition module are you running? From experience, they can do some bloody weird things when they are on their way out, and can have you scratching your head for ages...

Just the original bosch ignition coils, i had one relatively new and and older one.

GC75 wrote:i can check float level through the site glass right?? its not in the middle, i presume middle is level.

Just the original bosch ignition coils, i had one relatively new and and older one.

Yeah, if your lucky enough to have those glass indicators, that should give you an idea of what fuel is in there. In reality as long as the fuel is in the ball park of the middle it will be fine (especially if the vehicle isn't moving and your still having issues)

Hmm, are you talking coil or module? being a GK it should have it in the dizzy come to think of it. Have you got a spare dizzy to try?

Just to make it clear again, what is the issue you are having at the moment? (tried re-reading the thread but gets a bit muddled)

Yeah, if your lucky enough to have those glass indicators, that should give you an idea of what fuel is in there. In reality as long as the fuel is in the ball park of the middle it will be fine (especially if the vehicle isn't moving and your still having issues)

Hmm, are you talking coil or module? being a GK it should have it in the dizzy come to think of it. Have you got a spare dizzy to try?

Just to make it clear again, what is the issue you are having at the moment? (tried re-reading the thread but gets a bit muddled)

Yup i've got glass indicators, seems a bit out.

i was talking about the coil module??? haha yeah ive got a spare dizzy i can try.

Pretty much cars getting spark, it wasn't at the start... got that all working, power seems to be right.. tested with a test light...

just not kicking over, fuel problem im starting to believe... was 2 problems in the one, hence the confusion i think.

hey buds the build is coming along nicely except for the dramas that are arising..i know we are both running different detups but im having sort of the same problem?im getting fuel,spark and everything seems to be in order except for the car running like crap..? good luck with the issues your having bro and let me know how it goes,ill do the same.

what happened to the SC14 idea though? was that suspended or still ongoing behind the scenes?

M.B

ISKA8 wrote:hey buds the build is coming along nicely except for the dramas that are arising..i know we are both running different detups but im having sort of the same problem?im getting fuel,spark and everything seems to be in order except for the car running like crap..? good luck with the issues your having bro and let me know how it goes,ill do the same.

Cheers mate, and yeah always dramas it seems. My car needs an exorcism time to get the priest.

Yeah same mine was doing the same thing, now it seems im not getting it running at all expecting it to be fuel/carbs.
and will do and vice versa

@84GKSIG
SC14 is still planned, carbs are temporary until i get things ready fo the charger, and possibly wise to get my full licence before such a modified car as it will cause me dramas with the police haha.

there just jealous what have you got left to do now, from memory you had it on a manifold and needed a snout made up or something of that nature?

Needs a pulley and thats it snout needed some modifying to i believe.
Nah haven't done nothing with it as of yet, main concern was getting the car reliable and clean first.
That will come later towards when i get my full licence. Im on provisional 2's now, with 10 months or so to go.

pulled the fuel tank off today and exposed a few problems...

float thing was stuffed, made out of this shit that has fallen to bits, dunno where to get this replaced???

also filter seen here below is screwed:


and the tank itself, drained and getting new lines:


also anyone with a sedan fuel tank in good condition im keen on purchase, mines ding'd up i wanna restore a tank.

Next on the agenda, check all earths and then try get this car running again...

it started this morning... also going to tune these carbs properly... been reading up on them... i sorta understand whats going on with them to now.

Starting the engine- good news! The fuel tank- not so good. How much crap was in the bottom of the tank? Lucky the siggie wasn't running, it would've sucked up a gutful of garbage out of the tank and created a whole new bunch of headaches... Nothing like trying to purge a fuel line of full silt.

Starting the engine- good news! The fuel tank- not so good. How much crap was in the bottom of the tank? Lucky the siggie wasn't running, it would've sucked up a gutful of garbage out of the tank and created a whole new bunch of headaches... Nothing like trying to purge a fuel line of full silt.

Yeah, played round with the engine earth seems to have been a problem. (Still need to sort the carbs out to though)

Wasn't alot of stuff in there was pretty clean actually, was just the float had broken apart and started to decay away, anyone know where i can replace said float and in tank filter???

should i just run a filter behind the tank between the fuel lines??

i also have an EFI fuel filter (metal) in the engine bay, i was told a metal one would be more suitable then a plastic one in the bay made sense.

so running a plastic one at the rear between the fuel tank and the diff as to where the metal lines start to replace the intank filter as i cant seem to source one, or a modable one, i've replaced all fuel line (hose) aswell..

also the float broken would explain why my fuel gauge doesn't work.. want to fix that asap.. is is as easy as just putting another float on?? does it have to be specific?

EFI filter is a good idea. Way more efficient at straining the fuel clean. As for replacing the float on the tank sender, probably easier to swap it for a good assembly- too fiddly! You may be able to find a brass mesh strainer for the tank pick up- won't fall apart. A plastic filter up back in the fuel line would work o.k. if you don't find a replacement tank strainer.

EFI filter is a good idea. Way more efficient at straining the fuel clean. As for replacing the float on the tank sender, probably easier to swap it for a good assembly- too fiddly! You may be able to find a brass mesh strainer for the tank pick up- won't fall apart. A plastic filter up back in the fuel line would work o.k. if you don't find a replacement tank strainer.

Just got rid of a whole fuel tank assembly to not the smartest of ideas but was being nagged to remove the front yard ornament haha.

Where could i find a brass mesh strainer? if not ill just use the plastic filter.