My GC Hardtop project

[A112H]

Jason, I think you are over estimating the factory non-turbo output of the dohc 4g63 or are using the wrong units.

The dohc 4g63 engine in the 1989 Galant output 145 ps (106.65 kw) / 6000 rpm while the AMG version output 170 ps (125.04 kw) / 6750 rpm. Some of the later high spec engines output was 160 ps (117.68 kw) / 6500 rpm. The AMG and the higher performing engines had 10.4 compression ratio pistons while in the standard engine compression ratio was around 9.5.

Yeah, misinterpreting Japanese info. I was taking the Cyclone as the N/A Cyclone engine but they were refering to the Cyclone Dash as the Turbo charged engine, that produced 147kw

Now that I have feeling like a dick out of the way, I am still trying for 150rwkw N/A, so about 175/180kw at the fly. I still think it is achievable in a reliable package.

[dwlee]

If you haven't read this article it is worth reading http://www.motortecmagazine.net/article.asp?AID=1&AP=1 as it has some interesting info on the potential of the 4g63 heads.

[A112H]

Cheers for that, I read the first page but then saw how long it is. Might sit back Friday night with a glass of red and get engrossed

[RaptorReed]

I have a Megasquirt ECU collecting dust if you ever want to buy it . Got to splice in the MS harness to the engine harness, and wire in a o2 and IAT sensor.

Btw, did you plug and open the respective water jackets on the head and modify head gasket before you did the front outlet conversion or just threw it on?

[A112H]

I have a Megasquirt ECU collecting dust if you ever want to buy it . Got to splice in the MS harness to the engine harness, and wire in a o2 and IAT sensor.

Btw, did you plug and open the respective water jackets on the head and modify head gasket before you did the front outlet conversion or just threw it on?

See how the haltech goes but I will keep that in mind mate, cheers.

Just threw it on, lol. I thought you only had to do that on a SOHC to DOHC conversion?

[RaptorReed]

http://projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic ... 88&start=0

I've heard a mix from other saying to that what is suggested in that thread and others that it is fine without it, I don't remember if TJ did or not on his.

[A112H]

Cheers

[A112H]

So the engine is ready to be installed, just waiting on a clutch and to paint the engine bay.
I have also stripped the boot and starting again. I have swapped my fuel cell with a different design one, should give me more room in the boot and look a lot nicer. It will also allow me to carry a spare wheel which I couldn't with the old set up.
Might get some pics of the mock up boot if I get time, MotoGP is on in 40 minutes

[davetrees]

I am still trying for 150rwkw N/A, so about 175/180kw at the fly. I still think it is achievable in a reliable package.

I think you might be being a little optimistic ?

The old engine building "rule of thumb" is that to get anything over 100bhp/litre you are spending serious money .... and regular rebuilds.

175-180kw is around 235-240bhp from 1997cc .... you're looking at Cosworth BDG-type output (and probably cost ?)

I guess somewhere in there there's a break-even point between power, cost & reliability .... it's just a matter of finding it !

[A112H]

I am still trying for 150rwkw N/A, so about 175/180kw at the fly. I still think it is achievable in a reliable package.

I think you might be being a little optimistic ?

The old engine building "rule of thumb" is that to get anything over 100bhp/litre you are spending serious money .... and regular rebuilds.

175-180kw is around 235-240bhp from 1997cc .... you're looking at Cosworth BDG-type output (and probably cost ?)

I guess somewhere in there there's a break-even point between power, cost & reliability .... it's just a matter of finding it !

Either way, it will make more power than the Astron and do it smoother than the carbs did.

This is what I have been doing today. I was going the put the tank behind the back seat but figured putting it here should balance out okay with the battery on the other side and usually just the driver in the cabin. Not finalised yet, waiting on some new hose and I gotta clean the boot floor before covering it.

Pics

[davetrees]

Very tidy

I wouldn't get too worried about power figures .... it's a street car, not a race car ! Just build it carefully for maximum driveability & reliability - the final kW numbers mean squat, really (and if it comes to a compromise between power & torque, torque rules every time)

Just a tip with that fuel tank setup - I assume it will be filled from inside the boot ? If so, don't overlook fabricating a "catch tray" around the filler neck and drain it to outside the car. It's compulsory on competition cars for a very good reason ...

Dave

[A112H]

Cheers Dave, in the end what I am after is a strong street car and that is what it will be

Thanks for the tip, great idea

[A112H]

Just ordered all my new speedflow fittings and hose. This time I am going all black (fittings and hose) with a mix of Goodyear fuel hose and black nylon braided fuel hose.
Now I have to wait for it all to turn up so I can ger the boot sorted but also start the plumbing on the engine

[A112H]

Got my laser cut exhaust flange in the mail today, now just need the clutch and the engine can go in. Still waiting on heaps of hose and fittings but they should be here by the middle of next week

[A112H]

My new fuel tank doesn't have a fuel sender, so I am looking at something like this;

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VDO-220-003- ... 23187527ce

but I need to know what ohms the fuel gauge is on the GC/D Galants so I can make sure I get the correct sender.
Or would you think that because these units are adjustable you could just play with the settings until the gauge reads correctly?

[davetrees]

It's not in the factory workshop manual ? It is for the GA & GB ... including how to test it. Note sure if GC/GD gauges have the same specs, but can scan & send you the page from the GB manual if you want.

Dave

[A112H]

If you could Dave that would be great, I am not sure if they are the same but I really don't see why they would be different
I don't have a workshop manual (like a Gregory's) only the Chrysler service manual and I couldn't fint it in there
I will see if I can find a Gregory's

[davetrees]

No problem Jase .... just PM me your email address.

If it's not in the genuine Chrysler / Mitsubishi manual, it's unlikely to be in the Gregory's one.

[A112H]

Found it 100-104 Ω

[A112H]

Got my new black fittings and braided nylon hose today. They look very cool but I am not looking forward to getting the fittings on the hose Not one of my favourite tasks

The lot


Fitted (no hose connected yet)



Even got one for the engine end of the fuel line

[webby]

[A112H]

Okay, so I finally finished lining the boot. Only started about 15 months ago but now I am glad I never finished it and just got driving because this new set up is different and would have meant extra holes

Anyway, here are the pics. I am still waiting for the -6 hose but everything is bolted down and just needs wiring.





What do you think????

[A112H]

Wish I saw this before I bought my surge tank
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STEALTH-BLAC ... 27c878977e

[dwlee]

My only suggestion is that you need to vibration isolate the pumps from the body work so the noise/vibration of the pumps isn't transmitted to the cabin as that facet pump can be very noisy if they aren't isolated properly.

[jvflash]

Wow Jase, you changed the colour of the connectors.





There you go, happy now



Flashy

[A112H]

My only suggestion is that you need to vibration isolate the pumps from the body work so the noise/vibration of the pumps isn't transmitted to the cabin as that facet pump can be very noisy if they aren't isolated properly.

Cheers dwlee, it doesn't look like it in the pics but the hp pump has an isolation rubber between it and the mount.
I am not sure yet what to do with the facet, last time I used a piece of waffle pad designed for home A/C units but it was a bit ugly. Might see if I can find some round iso mounts for it. As yet it is just placed on the floor, not bolted down as yet.

[A112H]

So, as some of you may know I was made redundant on the 21st of August and have just started full time work yesterday. Needless to say money was getting very tight, so along with the purchase of the A53H and other apparently important stuff like mortgages and electricity bills the A112H has kinda been on hold.
But now that I am working and have gathered a few bits and pieces I am back in full swing and really want it completed by the end of Jan.

Anyway, some more progress on the boot/fuel system fit out. I only bought 1m of -6 hose, turns out that wasn't enough so the fuel return and the overflow to the tank are yet to be fitted, but you get the idea.
For the lift pump I ended up using the same bit of waffle pad I had. It works great but is just a bit ugly, might wrap it in red felt, lol




And, the 4G63 has made it's way to the engine bay. At the moment it is just there for fitting and clearance checks. All fits well, nothing seems to foul so all good so far.




I really wanted to use the factory CAS but after the first fit I gave up on that idea. It would have to have been recessed into the fire wall almost two inches but more importantly that relief would have chopped the last 3 numbers from my VIN on the firewall. So I have removed the CAS and rear breather to make room.
I will be running a sensor and trigger wheel from the crank pulley.
Pretty sure late model Falcons ran a crank pulley trigger wheel and sensor so might go and see what I can borrow at the wreckers

[A112H]

So the engine is out again and it is time to get stuck into the wiring and re route some hoses and stuff to tidy up the engine bay. Then painting the engine bay.
But I am now pulling the head off of the 63 again I have been offered a RVЯ head so will be solving the CAS issue once and for all. This won't be until mid January though so car might not see the road till early February or later
Sadly on the "normal" heads there is no mounting point for the CAS sensor so the whole head needs to be changed
But good news over all I guess and for the long term tuneability and usability of the package, which is why this swap started in the first place

[RaptorReed]

Should stick to the stock crank pulley/harmonic dampner, these motors don't do so well with the underdrive pulleys.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie- ... ncern.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinde ... shaft.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/1513989-post386.html

[A112H]

Never fear Tim, lol, replaced all pulleys with stock except cam pulleys. I still think there is some power to be have from the cam timing
And just incase people were thinking it is impossible to get a limited slip centre for a BW 10 bolt I have just bought a brand new one in Australia for very good money.
They are out there but you need to pay for them.