Sigma-galant.com

thought i may as well stick my pride in

120% stock (at the time of shooting) but now onto my 4th engine which is out of a colt (saturn power woo ;) )
interior original but stolen from my GC, 1.6L or NA GRUNT

got her for 250, and just putted out a nice project whice most of you witnissed
bought all these new and learnt how to and replace as i went
tie rods
tie rod ends
drag link
ball joints (cunts)
idler arm
sway bar & nolathaned.
brake pads & fluid
starter motor
coil n leads etc
alternator
PIONEER SOUND
locks
seat belts ($400 )

all up bout 3.5k i think from memory

fixed up rust in whole car with grinder and rust stop and polyfill with s/steel mesh
tig welded in a S/Steel battery mount

swapped leather seats from my GC
swapped Handbrake
wipers

im sure i forgot a heap too

and then got it over the pits in under 5 min with the steering a lil wonky coz he said he 'knew i would fix it straight away' (stil havnt done it )

so yeahh

not going to hong kong at end of year any more which means i can save for my next build
im gona go all out on my next one

i wana try get into pro rally (dream atm but a strong one)

Did you change all the front panels to GC parts or is it a GC?
What's the build date? GC's were made from mid 1974 to late 1975. Mine is Sept 75.
Still want to see that new motor Shuggy....

By the way that aircleaner on your car in the first shot is the same as on andrewharris88's car that you liked.

thats a gc mate unless uve changed the front grille and guards.
galant seats were never leather unless it was a sports pack with were cloth inserts. Did you have trouble installing the ball joints?

pretty tidy bus mate

na its GD, 77 GD infact i believe. unless someone swapped plates on my but the numbers al match up..
GM BERG is the colour, and na i didnt change any guards or grille or anythin, its all how it was. except the indicator lenses.

il go snap a shot of the plate and chassi number and engine now

cheers

its a gc :?

if its not thats fucking trippy.... now i am really confused...

very tidy indeed, they all take time and money but it is worth it in the end.

i musta been on crack when i bought this car
why the fuk have i always believed it was a GD? i have no fukin idea, its a GC. thats tripped me out haha

sorry for the arrogance haah

it even says on all my rego papers that its GD haha, and my insurance,
but then again i dont no if i mentioned this previosly but cops were at my joint the other day and the tried to fine me for havin the plates ont the wrong car, in fact it was the licencign place's fault,
when i took my car over the pits..
THEY REGISTERED MY CAR AS A 1977 WHITE MITSUBISHI SEDAN
wat the fuk?
so now i get pulled over weekly n i have to explain it everu tim that its their fuk up not mine

heres the pics of the plates and the carb/engine for 75wagon


oil leak on timing belt i think lol..





take not of the plunger lookin thingy on the acc pump.. ??







the lower mount holes were all over the place, one was slightly to the left one was slightly to the right so just used odd holes and made the holes in the mounts bigger



and heres the seat, i like to thnk its leather ;)

check out the engine code in the second last pic (4g32b in alien language?)

pswhy is one of my ex mani nuts loose hahaha

it even says on all my rego papers that its GD haha, and my insurance,
but then again i dont no if i mentioned this previosly but cops were at my joint the other day and the tried to fine me for havin the plates ont the wrong car, in fact it was the licencign place's fault,
when i took my car over the pits..
THEY REGISTERED MY CAR AS A 1977 WHITE MITSUBISHI SEDAN

You have the right body/ chassis no. on your rego papers don't you? If so get them to change the colour and point out there mistake. GC is the first part of your body number, so they can't dispute that it isn't. If you haven't already, change the engine no. as well. In NSW you have 14 days after installation to do that.
You should get this cleared up, as when or if you sell the car it might pose some problems. Maybe even on your next rego check....

The next thing you should look at is the oil leak. Oil will perish your timing belt. Give it a good clean up and try to work out where it is coming from. There shouldn't be any oil in the timing belt area at all. When motors get a little worn, they get a bit of blow by past the rings and presurise the crankcase. The oil could be from the crankcase ventilation hose on the front of your rocker cover, but from the photo doesn't look like it is.
Your carby base with the blocked vacuum hose is the one that is for your vacuum advance. So it should go to your distributor. Try it see if that fixes your flat spot on acceleration.
If you get a look at a workshop manual for a colt RB RC or RD it will show you where all those vacuum lines connect to.

Just thinking.... Check the seal on the front of your crank. Front main seal I think it's called. I think that's where your oil is coming from.

i cant remember if i got the engine before or after the licence.. i think after.. so yea i better get that changed hey. just cbf haha

and yea the vac hose blocked is ok it was like that when i got it, it has 2 vac lines goin to the dizzy

im sik of it haha

PS if anyone can tell me what the fuk that plunger lookin thing attached to the acc pump would be greatly appreciated haha\

shuggy wrote:PS if anyone can tell me what the fuk that plunger lookin thing attached to the acc pump would be greatly appreciated haha\

That will probably be fore the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). What is the other end hooked up too?

shuggy wrote:i cant remember if i got the engine before or after the licence.. i think after.. so yea i better get that changed hey. just cbf haha

and yea the vac hose blocked is ok it was like that when i got it, it has 2 vac lines goin to the dizzy

im sik of it haha

Why 2 I wonder?
The vacuum advance must be hooked up below the butterflys not above. That way it gives maximum advance at idle, drops off when you open the throttle, picks up again as you accelerate and then the mechanical advance in your distributor contributes too. Your maximum combined advance should be about 30 deg's I think. The way yours is set up you only get vacuum advance on acceleration when enough vacuum is created.
You should try to get a look at a workshop manual for a colt RB RC or RD. It will show you exact. Are you near a library? They have workshop manuals, go ask.

pswhy is one of my ex mani nuts loose hahaha

...and the one below it is missing

letmefknin wrote:

pswhy is one of my ex mani nuts loose hahaha

...and the one below it is missing

yea its stripped

75wagon wrote: That will probably be fore the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). What is the other end hooked up too?

no other end just goes into the carb :?

75wagon wrote:Why 2 I wonder?
The vacuum advance must be hooked up below the butterflys not above. That way it gives maximum advance at idle, drops off when you open the throttle, picks up again as you accelerate and then the mechanical advance in your distributor contributes too

yeah it has 2 for some reason, one goes tot he side of the dizzy n the other to the top. and yeah they are currently hooked up to above the butterfly, il have a fiddle with that later wen it aint raining. il grab a manula when i get a chance but in the meantime, would the bad advance setting contribute to the pinging? i took the cover off the dizzy n sucked on the hoses and they seem to move the contact a lot more than 30 degrees.. could be wrong tho.

Mark your advance guide (that's on your timing cover) to show 30 deg's. Just work out the distance past the 20 deg mark. Put a timing light on it and see if it advances to 30 deg. It shouldn't go past 30. You idle timing should be set to 5 deg's. Your idle timing should be set with the vacuum advance hose removed. Check your points gap, between 0.45 to 0.55mm.
Make sure your vacuum advance plate moves easily.

cheers bud

dont fukin laugh

it was my valve clearances, one valve wasnt closing fully...


i adjusted them a while ago to stop the ticking, yeah i scewed it up lol

all good now, but stil running lean..
got a carb kit on the way wit my new fuel pump

Not laughing mate.....just glad to here your getting somewhere with it...

had a lood at the thrust bearing today too, its free spinning, just has no crease wat so ever. dont know how im gona get some in there...

Don't be too generous with the grease. Or you'll end up getting it on your clutch facings...

shuggy wrote:had a lood at the thrust bearing today too, its free spinning, just has no crease wat so ever. dont know how im gona get some in there...

Changing the bearing would be my first choice but if you aren't going to do that,

1. FULLY FLUSH OUT the bearing several times.
There will most likely be a lot of foreign material in it, ie: metal powder, Clutch pad dust, fine road dust, etc....
I'd use some brake/carby cleaner first, then some WD40. Do that at least 3 times while spinning the bearing.

2. Buy some Molybdenum Disulfide grease and a "hypodermic needle" adapter for a grease gun, SuperCheap have them for about $5.
The Moly grease is a good high temp/pressure grease.

3. Failing that, you could use lithium grease. it comes in a spray can, is very liquid to start with but "solidifies" after a few minutes.



Cheers.

na the bearing is new so im not takin the engine out agen..

il stik it up on the hoist in the next few days n ive it a clean

cheerrsss

I think you need to change you title to "My GC"
that id plate pic clearly says 3/75 in other words March 1975 = GC

yeah i know hahah

lol