76 Colt Galant GTO GSR 2000

[partyboyjay]

recomendations please guys

i'm going to re-coat the wiring loom, what type of tape should i be using? adhesive, non adhesive? self amalgamating? cloth tape or insulation???

sooo many!

[dwlee]

I've used Scotch Super 33+ vinyl electrical tape and its pretty good to use. I would avoid self amalgamating or cloth tape at all costs as both will be a nightmare to repair if something goes wrong. For the ultimate in easy repair a good quality non adhesive loom tape, but I found that it's very hard to find in NZ these days. If you are redoing the loom check the condition of the large cables running to and from the ammeter particularly around the connectors at the gauge end as all current to or from the battery goes through them (except the starter). Also, you may want to look at replacing the 4 fusible links with something a bit more modern and easier to obtain if one lets go, but that may not be a problem in the UK.

Edit: One really handy product to use to hold the loom together before taping is rapstrap see http://www.rapstrap.com They are much nicer to use than a normal cable tie, are reusable i.e. undone and can be taped over without having a large bump in the loom. Apparently its a product that came out of Dragons' Den.

[DriveBy]

Agree with Dwlee losing the fusable links is a prudent measure. Large blade type holders are easy to come by and if you use a modified FL cover say off a Starion or early Pajero/Shogun it will give a factory look aswell as keeping them out of the elements.

[partyboyjay]

Ok, so more work done, and more pieces taken off! Removed all the wiring from the boot, the fuel pump and associated pieces, the steering column, brake cylinder and front sub frame so the front end is completely empty now (except a little fuel line!)


Going to strip the sub frame down for parts restoration next time I'm down, or when the rear axle is off, then they can all go off to shotblasters as one lot.
In the mean time, some rust was found inside just under steering column behind the insulation


All in all she's coming on well, although I don't think ill have the funding for the dip till later on in the year (overtime pay out!) so in the meantime I will be focusing on getting the parts shotblasted and powdercoated ready to go back on, and start switching the nuts and bolts I have bagged up for stainless ones!

[A112H]

After seeing the rust in this car and a few others in the UK, if I ever hear an Australian complain about the heat or the sun I will straight up bitch slap them.
As always, a great job, scary little find but better now than when it comes back from the shot blasting.

[partyboyjay]

After seeing the rust in this car and a few others in the UK, if I ever hear an Australian complain about the heat or the sun I will straight up bitch slap them.

I would like a nicer less harmful climate in all honesty! Too wet here, then the roads are coated with so much rubbish over the winter! Mike suggested I up sticks and move to NZ were the weathers better and there's more gto's! That is sorely tempting lol! Due to the state of our roads and climate, when completed she'll only be coming out during the so called 'dry' months!!!

Had a recommendation the other day that it would be handy to do as much metalwork as I can before I get her dipped. Is this right??? Surely I should dip her first? Anyone know any better??? What should I do?

[A112H]

If you are coming this far from home you should be heading this way, the weather in NZ isn't that much better if at all.
I would be getting it dipped before starting anything, you want to start a job knowing entirely what is at hand trying to avoid any nasty surprises half way through.

[partyboyjay]

I would be getting it dipped before starting anything

I am a little worried about losing the shape a bit though, especially on the rear light fittings, don't think there's going to be much left there, should I make templates before the dip? Is that a wise decision?

Would love to live anywhere over there, but I think I'm too attached to my family and friends!

[partyboyjay]

Great present arrived from Mitsubishi (I say present! I had to pay something!) Can't thank them enough as this is going to be a MAJOR help upon rebuild and during resto!


say hello to my new (copy from archives) full parts catalog, with exploded parts diagrams for the full car!!!

[DriveBy]

Unreal Jay, who was it at CCC that did it for you was it Andy Veitch?

[DriveBy]

Had a recommendation the other day that it would be handy to do as much metalwork as I can before I get her dipped. Is this right??? Surely I should dip her first? Anyone know any better??? What should I do?

I can see where they are coming from, the more strength the shell has when dipped the better to avoid any warping if crucial structural parts are weak or rusty. It won't do any harm doing plate work but its best to brace her anyway especially with her lacking a B pillar some diagonal bracing is a must to keep her shape incase the sills are toast.

[A112H]

Unreal Jay, who was it at CCC that did it for you was it Andy Veitch?

Andy any relation to Joel??

http://www.rathergood.com/

[partyboyjay]

Unreal Jay, who was it at CCC that did it for you was it Andy Veitch?

No idea who it was! Just contacted Mitsubishi motors uk on Facebook, talked to them about my build, showed them pictures and stuff, they took a real interest which I was really proud of I still had to pay for it mind but I wasn't expecting them to do it!

but its best to brace her anyway

They fit an internal brace to her at the dippers, so that's covered, I was just worried about if I repaired some sheet metal, but didn't go far enough and the acid leaves holes above and around the repair! I won't be really fixing the problem! Gonna get a guy round to have a look at her soon and see what he thinks!

[partyboyjay]

Ok, so I've got my first load back from the shot blasters, few pieces need repairing, will get some pics up soon, so most of that load will be off to powder coaters this week, and the second and final batch is nearly ready for shot blasters:

Finally got the rear axle and the fuel tank off so just need to split the leaf springs, the rear axle and the front sub frame down, then get that lot off to shot blasters
Got about half a days work left on the shell

I have the rear glass, the vanity light wiring and 2 fuel lines to remove, then the shell is empty! so serious focus time on money saving!!!
Any U.K members fancy a set of 4 classic bmw alloys??? Would make my purchase of the stock wheels come about faster!!!

[DriveBy]

Actually looks pretty inspirational stripped in that pic. Certainly still shows her beautiful lines even when naked haha

[partyboyjay]

Ok so here's a pic of the shot blasted skid pan, shows the extent of repair needed

And here's some progress pics powdercoated headlight units! Just sourcing the stainless screws and springs, then get some new headlights and I have freshly restored complete units!!!

[BlueThunder]

Ok so here's a pic of the shot blasted skid pan, shows the extent of repair needed
[url=http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/party ... b.jpg.html][img]

Hi Partyboyjay
Just to avoid this with mine I got the protective paint/plastic like layer of with a paint stripper and i then did some electrolytical derusting. Works pretty good.
After that I had it galvanized and powdercoated.

The electrolytical derusting process has the advantage that it doesn't take away much material wich is ideal for thin sheets of metal...

Cheerz
Sven

[partyboyjay]

the shot blasting has done a pretty good job of getting everything off,
the next step is cutting out the bad bits and making an easy patch hole,
then after it's been repaired it will be galvanised before powder coated!

[partyboyjay]

ok guys, bit of help/guidance please,

I was splitting down the rear axle section the other day for shot blasting, the drive shafts that run through the axle, do i disconnect them from inside the lsd? or should they just pull out?

want to remove them so i can get the brake covers off!

trying to split down as much as possible so shotblasting goes well and doesnt damage important parts!

Also, parts compatability, did any other model use the same leaf spring set up? one of mine (so far) is snapped (the one with the rivetted clips on), i'm also in need of the plate/bracket which seats underneath the leafsprings with a thread for the rear suspension, were these used on other models? will post some pics as soon as i can for reference.

[A112H]

Once you undo the 4 bolts around the axle bearing the axles should slide out. Sometimes they do need some persuasion by a plastic or rubber mallet

[A57C]

update?

[partyboyjay]

Update........shes been put on hold me and the better half have just purchased and moved into our first house we are out of my parents house at least but obviously all the overtime i was previously killing for the gto is now being consigned to the house! At least when she demanded the garage be converted to a utility room I managed to barter enough garage space left for when shes finished! Ive still got parts being refurbed by affa and local companies but its the shell thats holding me back