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Ok so first up Auto Electrics are my kryptonite so probably an amateur problem. Here's the go. My ute won't turn over. It does every now and then but very rare. The starter just clicks like it would when you have a flat battery. Just tried my third starter motor in there and also a fresh battery with jump pack and same result. Multimeter on the battery sits at 12.4 then drops to around 6.5-7volts when I turn the key. I've checked all the wiring and everything seems ok. Any ideas? The Starter has 3 wires coming off it - one goes to the battery, one I'm assuming goes to the ignition and a small wire soldered on that I'm not sure off. My other Colts have the cars earth wire connected to one of the Starter mounts but this car doesn't. All 3 Starters have bench tested fine and I even tried to turn the car over without plugs as was clutching at straws.

Now by coincidence, my 74 GC Galant Farm/rally car has been doing the same thing for the past 6 months. Up at my property I don't bother trying to fix it so we just tow start it whenever needed. I would love to fix both cars! Any help will be greatly appreciated!

IF (big if ) you have tried a few starters AND they all show the same issue, probably there is a bad connection somewhere. a relatively easy way to check is to have someone turn the key and hold it turned, while you place your hand on the different sections of the wire. when you feel a warm or hot spot, most likely that is where the problem is.

Check the earth strap first, it should go to the body of the car first then to some point on the block. Remove and clean the contact area for the earth strap, body and block.

A little known issue (unless you do a lot of welding) is if you don't use a good earth strap to the block, you can literally weld the bearings to your crank. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and if this is through the crank and bearings, nothing good will come of it.


Cheers.

Thanks mate! The one thing I somehow have an abundance of is 60s Colt Starter Motors so yeah I've tried 3. So just to clarify the wire I'm looking for heat through - is that the power wire from the battery? I'll start with the earth strap cleaning first and go from there .

Probably a bit late to be of use? May help others later on though.

If you suspect you have an issue with the negative/ground/earth/(what ever) for the starter motor, get a volt meter, & attach the positive lead to the body of the starter motor (at the starter motor, not the block, inlet manifold etc. You are trying to check the integrity of the return, so check it properly). Then attach the negative lead to the negative battery terminal (again... at the terminal!).

While trying to crank the engine, keep an eye on the meter. I wouldn't expect it to stay reading 0V, as there is a fair amount of current being used, but if you get a reasonable reading, that will denote there being excessive resistance in that section; such as a 'loose wire'.
(Been a while since I've required this method, so can't remember an acceptable figure off the top of my head - can find out if required... ?)

Some may suggest at this point you could simply do a resistance check, but! Unless you are using a fairly good quality meter, the low end accuracy (as in under 10ohm for most) should be read more as a guide, not a certain figure.
And since we have a factor that is in the 3 digit range (starter motor current), why not make life easier

Cheers,
Nick.

Thanks Nick, it definitely is still relevant advice! I've tried a couple of times over the past week or two and still no go. I've removed and cleaned wires, connections etc. I'll give this a go over the weekend and report back!

Hi Nick,

I gave this a go today and didn't really find out anything. The Multimeter didn't have a reading at all. I then tried a new cable from the negative side of the battery to the body of the Starter - no change. One thing that stays constant is how hot the earth wire from the Starter to the motor gets - every time I try it that cable gets pretty warm. Not sure what the goes is!

Put a relay on your starter , your ignition is not giving the starter a full 12v

Ah ok! I'm a tad rusty with this stuff but to confirm the idea would be to run permanent power to the relay, earth it, then run the ignition wire to the relay. When the key is turned, it activates the relay therefore feeding it the full 12v from the battery yeah?

Thats it

Ripper! I'll give it a go tonight .

Edit: Just found this sweet little "How to" for a fellow Jap car :

http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html

No luck . First relay I tried did the same - single click. I tried another one and it clicked constantly as if it was throwing the wheel out but not turning. Was late so have packed it in for the night. Out of interest I was doing something else with my other colt and decided to check out it's wiring - would you believe a non standard relay on the starter wire! . Will check it out again asap

Grab a starter motor and jumper leads , earth to the starter , positive to the solinoid , with a screw driver cross the solinoid with the thin wire point from the ignition . The starter should pop out

Thanks mate yeah I had already bench tested the starter before putting it in. Had a win last night though. Pulled the starter out again, double checked all the wiring and cleaned up the wiring to the new relay. Pretty much methodically connected everything back again - success! The thing is cranking over like a trooper! So much so I was able to keep trying for ages while I try and figure out why it's not getting fuel ( possible block somwhere ). All good though, electrics seem to be restored .

Shifta2 wrote: The Multimeter didn't have a reading at all. I then tried a new cable from the negative side of the battery to the body of the Starter - no change

Technically you did find something out, no real reading on the multi-meter means that section is not at fault

& you have got it working by cleaning up the positive side? Would confirm the above.

Keep in mind you can use that method anywhere, from the positive side of the battery to the input terminal of the starter motor. If everything is working correctly, you should again get next to no voltage reading.

Anyway, good to hear you have got it sorted.

Thanks mate! Next job is to try all of that with the farm Galant when I'm up there next