Sigma-galant.com

OK i have a magna 2.6l and i want to turbo it iam going to rebuild it what rods/Pistons/cam/rockers/ are the best i you eyes if you are building one

It's going to depend on what HP you are expecting to make and how you are going to drive it, along with the hip pocket restrictions.

You can get a billet crank made up for around $2500. It would be nice but totally unnecessary if you are only wanting to make 300hp.

A better guide would be:
1. Expected RWHP.
2. Approximate budget.
3. Expected Boost level.
4. Expected engine life.
5. Skill level, ie: how much you and your friends will be doing and/or making.

I'm not having a go at you, it's just a bit hard to advise when you don't have all the info.

Cheers.

i have a fully qualified mechanic as a friend so he will be building the motor and i want the motor to last a bit as look as it still reliable at the end of the day ill be happy i only want about 200

For a 200-300rwhp engine, you should be able to use stock internals.

Parts list:

1. M7 head.

2. ARP
- a. Head Studs.
- b. Rod Bolts.
- c. Main Bearing studs.

3. US Starion pistons. They run a 2.6L Astron Turbo engine.

4. Megasquirt-3 v3 ECU and sensors. Again, there are plenty of maps for these on the US starion/conquest web sites.

5. RWD Modded TP manifold with a larger throttle body.

6. Turbo, exhaust manifold, inter-cooler.

7. TR/TS EFI Dizzy.

8. US Starion cam to suit.

9. Suitable clutch setup.

10. Wide block Astron engine.

11. Starion/Triton/Pajero gearbox (strongly recommend to have it rebuilt).

12. At least a 10 Bolt Jap diff out of the appropriate Scorpion.

13. Stainless 1mm os valves.

14. TS Magna oil pump and balance shaft elimination.

15. Adjustable cam gear.

16. Engine gasket kit.

17. Bearings.

18. Welch plugs.





Work to be done:

1. Race prep the rods and crank, ie: crack test, shot pein, resize, balance.

2. Clean up the casting marks and sharp edges in the ports/chamber and port match the manifolds.

3. Bore/hone/skim the block.

4. Skim the head.

5. Balance the flywheel/clutch assembly.

6. Clean, assemble, install, enjoy..



Cheers.

if you don't mind me asking why the wide bloke mate

The starion/triton/pajero gearboxes are all wide block. The gears are thicker and the bearings are a better style in these gearboxes as well.
The input and output shafts for the wide block gearboxes are thicker.
They can handle more abuse than the standard sigma and scorpion gearboxes.

Cheers.

you will find that that the crank and rods are quite strong but you may swap the pistons to forged and use a design that decreases your comp ratio

armor117 wrote:i have a fully qualified mechanic as a friend so he will be building the motor and i want the motor to last a bit as look as it still reliable at the end of the day ill be happy i only want about 200

for about 200 hp or a bit more I'd copy Karls baby shit brown galant motor build its to simple

use a std 2.6 flat top piston motor with a std M6 magna head a std sigma turbo exhuast manifold and an early magna fuel injection manifold
using a 60 or 65 mm tb
it did run a 31/79 cam with some double valve springs
you need an intercooler and only about 8 psi boost would make about 200 hp of cause you need an after market ECU

with 6 psi this near std magna engine pulled 138 Kw atw ( 184 hp ) at 5800 with no lag from right off the bottom - a very smart turbo build for the street

A billett crank is not necassery in these motors at all for a reliable 300hp just concentrate on standard components just a decent set of valve springs, a reground cam, ACL pistons and someone that can machine and assemble the whole lot correctly this kind of combo is good for a reliable 400whp through an automatic revving to 7000-7500 you will also need all the bolt on's to support this kind of power for which there is plenty of info floating around in these forums.


cheers Mic

Does anyone know at what point one will need to go a billlet crank in a 2.6 ?
I bet the block would go first before you will need a billet crank.

You won't standard prepped cranks have proved reliable to over 700whp and 8500rpm's if you are going to go more than that you will need a billet cylinder head before you will need to change the crank.

cheers Mic

you can get good power reliably out of a stock magna engine.

i had a dead stock magna from U-pull it.
i put dished astron1 pistons (with over 250,000km on them) in it and ran 18 PSI, made 210kw at the treads like that as a daily for over 12 months.

then i upped the rev limiter to 7k and ran 22psi.... then broke 3 piston ring lands. upon dissasembly found that the pistons were heavily worn. and the rings had excessive float and thats the likely cause of the failure.
it lasted a few weeks fine at 22psi and 6000rpm limit. and lasted about 5 trips to 7000rpm before it lost some compression and started running badly...
not bad for a $200 engine

Standard crank in mine, been in the engine for over 10 years now. Same set of standard rods to, just 3 sets of pistons. Acl, standards for a while now another set of ACL's.

390hp and 30 psi. No need to overthink these motors. Just be smart with the tuning.