2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
Hey guys i've just bought a 84 GSR and tha donk is rather tied 385.###k's.... i can a get fully rebuilt 2.6L magna motor...
I hav no idea bout mitshibishi's... can i exchange that motor for my tied astron... i realise if it can be swap'd there will be a few changes.. Can some 1 help me at all...
I hav no idea bout mitshibishi's... can i exchange that motor for my tied astron... i realise if it can be swap'd there will be a few changes.. Can some 1 help me at all...
"If YoU CaRnT SwInG It DoNt BrinG It" "LoCk It &StOcK It"
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Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
There are a few things to consider if you want to swap in a Magna engine.
1. The Magna engine is a narrow block. Fine if you are running an auto but won't fit the standard 2.6L 5-speed gearboxes, only the 2L 5-speeds will fit, but they are much harder to find.
2. You can't use the magna timing chain cover (no water pump). You will need to weld up a narrow block timing cover (Sump) and also grind some of the webbing off so it doesn't hit the oil pump.
3. There are one or 2 bolts that hold down the timing chain guides, they have a large step down to the thread that tends to fail. Drill and Re-tap them to the standard size.
4.The sump is a different shape and sits much lower than a standard RWD sump. It can be used but don't go over speed-bumps too fast.
5. The Magna dizzy will fowl on the RWD thermostat housing.
6. You will have to use the RWD front pulley because the timing mark on the FWD is in a different position.
7. If you are going to use the magna cam, you need to cut off the rear section that used to attach to the Magna water pump.
I'm sure there are a few things I missed but I would consider these the main issues.
Cheers.
1. The Magna engine is a narrow block. Fine if you are running an auto but won't fit the standard 2.6L 5-speed gearboxes, only the 2L 5-speeds will fit, but they are much harder to find.
2. You can't use the magna timing chain cover (no water pump). You will need to weld up a narrow block timing cover (Sump) and also grind some of the webbing off so it doesn't hit the oil pump.
3. There are one or 2 bolts that hold down the timing chain guides, they have a large step down to the thread that tends to fail. Drill and Re-tap them to the standard size.
4.The sump is a different shape and sits much lower than a standard RWD sump. It can be used but don't go over speed-bumps too fast.
5. The Magna dizzy will fowl on the RWD thermostat housing.
6. You will have to use the RWD front pulley because the timing mark on the FWD is in a different position.
7. If you are going to use the magna cam, you need to cut off the rear section that used to attach to the Magna water pump.
I'm sure there are a few things I missed but I would consider these the main issues.
Cheers.
Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
If you use the Magna intake manifold, It wont be a problem.Superscan811 wrote:5. The Magna dizzy will fowl on the RWD thermostat housing.
You could use the pulley, but you'd have to make a new timing mark on it.Superscan811 wrote:6. You will have to use the RWD front pulley because the timing mark on the FWD is in a different position.
The pulley that is attached to the cam that connects to the water pump is only held on with a bolt. Once removed, it will stick out of the head a little, but not enough to hit anything.Superscan811 wrote:7. If you are going to use the magna cam, you need to cut off the rear section that used to attach to the Magna water pump.
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Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
Does the Carb Magna manifold have the thermostat housing at the front of the engine?Cottees wrote:If you use the Magna intake manifold, It wont be a problem.Superscan811 wrote:5. The Magna dizzy will fowl on the RWD thermostat housing.
I have never looked.
If not, you would also have to either modify the manifold or re-plumb the radiator hose to the back of the engine.
True.Cottees wrote:You could use the pulley, but you'd have to make a new timing mark on it.Superscan811 wrote:6. You will have to use the RWD front pulley because the timing mark on the FWD is in a different position.
I (my brother actually) had done this a long time ago when we put a holden harmonic balancer on instead of the standard sigma pulley. It was a bit of an effort to get right, just like degreeing a cam.
True.Cottees wrote:The pulley that is attached to the cam that connects to the water pump is only held on with a bolt. Once removed, it will stick out of the head a little, but not enough to hit anything.Superscan811 wrote:7. If you are going to use the magna cam, you need to cut off the rear section that used to attach to the Magna water pump.
I had done this initially but I found the seal tends to leak. There were no wear or marks on the shaft and I tried 2 new seals with no luck.
Cheers.
Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
ive got a 2l sigma cam in my magna head and a welch plug sealing the hole....
and a fwd carby manifold plumbed to the front with 3 joined hoses
i think you forgot the welch plug for the fwd water pump hole too
and a fwd carby manifold plumbed to the front with 3 joined hoses
i think you forgot the welch plug for the fwd water pump hole too
"launching missiles? who do they think i am? iraq? where would i get a missile from?" "that means rocks too dumbaass" "oh"
conversation recently overheard at police station after big night out
conversation recently overheard at police station after big night out
Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
The thermostat housing is on the same place on the TM-TS Magnas, EFI or Carbie. The other day I took a radiator hose from my TR EFI parts car and put it onto a TR Carbie.Superscan811 wrote:Does the Carb Magna manifold have the thermostat housing at the front of the engine?Cottees wrote:If you use the Magna intake manifold, It wont be a problem.Superscan811 wrote:5. The Magna dizzy will fowl on the RWD thermostat housing.
I have never looked.
If not, you would also have to either modify the manifold or re-plumb the radiator hose to the back of the engine.
Just thinking though, it might be worth while converting it to EFI, or getting one that is EFI.
Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
F that idea 2 much work... just want low K's astron lol...
"If YoU CaRnT SwInG It DoNt BrinG It" "LoCk It &StOcK It"
Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
pajero or triton astron 2 is already rwd'ed...
"launching missiles? who do they think i am? iraq? where would i get a missile from?" "that means rocks too dumbaass" "oh"
conversation recently overheard at police station after big night out
conversation recently overheard at police station after big night out
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Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
Are you wanting a daily or a powerhouse?
I have an engine with about 360K+ on it, it has been cooked badly on at least 3 occasions.
I had to put on a new head on it because the original one had around a 3mm crack between the valve seats on 2 and 3 cylinder.
It currently puts out 83.5KW at the rear wheels using E10 91, which is more than the standard EFI engine using 95.
The only work done to the engine is:
1. A set of 4 x 38mm motorbike carbies.
2. A set of standard off the shelf extractors.
3. Removed the balance shafts.
4. A standard Magna head with non-hydraulic rockers.
5. Using a magna oil pump
6. The mildest cam available for a standard engine.
No other work has been done to the engine.
I would recommend using a M6 or M7 magna head, but apart from that, if it isn't blowing smoke and there isn't a lot of wear in the bore, bolt it together and give it a spin.
I was surprised at the amount of GG's it produced on an almost standard engine.
Up over 30% more power than a standard carby engine.
Cheers.
I have an engine with about 360K+ on it, it has been cooked badly on at least 3 occasions.
I had to put on a new head on it because the original one had around a 3mm crack between the valve seats on 2 and 3 cylinder.
It currently puts out 83.5KW at the rear wheels using E10 91, which is more than the standard EFI engine using 95.
The only work done to the engine is:
1. A set of 4 x 38mm motorbike carbies.
2. A set of standard off the shelf extractors.
3. Removed the balance shafts.
4. A standard Magna head with non-hydraulic rockers.
5. Using a magna oil pump
6. The mildest cam available for a standard engine.
No other work has been done to the engine.
I would recommend using a M6 or M7 magna head, but apart from that, if it isn't blowing smoke and there isn't a lot of wear in the bore, bolt it together and give it a spin.
I was surprised at the amount of GG's it produced on an almost standard engine.
Up over 30% more power than a standard carby engine.
Cheers.
Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
I'm trying to use the TR Magna roller rockers and reground cam but the cam seal isn't enough to seal the back of the head. It's still spits out oil every now and then. So annoying! Maybe I fitted the cam seal the wrong way around?rob020 wrote:ive got a 2l sigma cam in my magna head and a welch plug sealing the hole....
and a fwd carby manifold plumbed to the front with 3 joined hoses
i think you forgot the welch plug for the fwd water pump hole too
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Re: 2.6L magna motor ? bolt in sigma
Before I fitted my roller cam I had the rear water pump protrusion remove by a machine shop. One thing I have learnt with rocker cover oil leaks is that you need plenty of silicone around the rear gasket mating surface, or it will gush oil every time.