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hi guys just wondering how much you guys have paid for your engines, roughly, and what you got for your dollar? im going to be sticking with my g32b for now but id like to get an idea of what engine/gearbox setup worked for you guys, and roughly how much it cost.

I've always found, the most economical way to do things is to buy a complete car, and then take out what you need.

For example, if you want a 2.6 swap buy a GH Sigma that is 2.6 with a 5 speed (unless you want an auto). GJ Sigma's onwards have a longer shifter housing (approx 135mm further back then a stock 4 speed) on the gearbox that doesn't suit Lancers or Galants. Rusty GH Sigma's don't pull a lot of coin, but if you buy a better one, you could on sell any parts that you don't need to other Sigma owners.

Dave...

It depends on what you want to get done. I've had a quote to get a 4g32 done with pretty much everything possible. Quote was just under $3k. That was for things like shaved head, port and polish,bigger valves, double valve springs, custom cam grind (stage 3) blueprinted block, fully balanced, oversized pistons etc..... Like I said, pretty much everything. Add about $500-$600 for a decent seccond hand carby to suit ( I've got a 45mm side draught webber)

i tried to comment this last night but interwebs dropped out so heres what i was gunna say


Ive got a pretty worked 4G32 this is whats done

60thou over stage 3 rally grind on the cam the
biggest stainless steel valves that will fit biggest valve springs that fit.
A little port and polish.
40mm TWIN DELLORTOS


and like what 79 said bout 3 grand put into it and i know a block with basically stuff done just running 350 holley carby and he runs 15s down the quarter mile

Mine built to pretty much a T of what 79lancer mentioned...

Blueprinted
Balanced
Ported and polished head
Shaved block
Shaved head
Billet 30/70 wagget cam
40thou wiseco pistons
High flow oil pump (don't ask me... Was a custom job by the bloke who built most of it)
1mm os valves
Twin sidedraft DHLA40 dellorto carbs with race linkages and ram tubes/filters
Tuned lengthed extractors
2" system
5 speed jap box

Had receipts for $2700 in part for all of that above minus the twin carbs... Carbs cost me $500

So all up;
$3200

That's for a rather angry 1600 that drinks faster than a parched lizzard!

Throw into that my xr3000 ignition I haven't installed yet

Cost me $320

So that all up of $3520

So to get a well tricked up g32b it comes in at around the the grand mark, seems like you guys have opted for the jap 5 speeds too, are they a good box/and are the better geared than the standard 4 speeds? also, with all the engine works done does it make them very thirsty (as 75gint mentioned)

to much !

Jap boxs are way better then standard 4 speed and they do drink the fuel unless you get them tuned otherwise

jameslikesstuff wrote:So to get a well tricked up g32b it comes in at around the the grand mark, seems like you guys have opted for the jap 5 speeds too, are they a good box/and are the better geared than the standard 4 speeds? also, with all the engine works done does it make them very thirsty (as 75gint mentioned)

I've just had a block prepped and for a hot tank, machining (block decked bored and honed, crank machined, flywheel refaced), new standard pistons/rings and bearings it set me back about $1200 (unassembled). Add a head recon (another $300ish) and add anything else you want done to it such as OS valves and port work, and you're already up for $2k without ancillaries - headers, cam, carbies and anything else needed to get it going. You get what you pay for - a fresh, tight engine that will serve you well if it's built properly (or until you beat a rainbow out of it and it goes bing...) A bigger CC second hand engine will be way cheaper but for it to be worth while you'll still be rebuilding it. As for the jap 5 speeds they are a good strong gearbox, and having an extra leg will help out on the freeway. Not much chance of a beefed up 1.6 destroying it's internals (depending on how good the gearbox was when it was installed) unless your hobby is doing ugly launches and changes.

Mines very thirsty! I do about 2 laps of slow driving around my 1 acre house yard and it drinks 2L of petrol...

If I give it any stick, I'll get 2 lap... You can actually watch the fuel level lower when you're stationary but revving (warm ups etc)...

sounds like something is wrong if its that thirsty, its almost as bad as my sigma

She's running a bit rich... But even with the 32/36 webber (jetted to suit), she was thirsty...

Cost to build a performance 2.6L astron engine would be around $1500 to $3500, depending on how much work you are able/capable/prepared to do yourself.

Another benefit of a properly built engine is the fuel economy. When driven "mildly", because they are designed to work efficiently, the 2.6L Astron engine will give you better than standard fuel efficiency.

My 2.6L Triton, running Motorbie carbs AND running on E85, uses 13.33L per 100ks highway(450k on 60L). That was with 500kgs in the back as well.
This is better than the standard petrol MPG figures. With E85 you are supposed to use an extra 20%-30% over standard petrol.

As stated before, correctly tuned carbs will greatly improve both HP and fuel economy, the trouble is, most people just "plug and play", hoping all will be OK.

To do a "rough" tune, excluding timing, takes me around 2 hours with the motorbike carbs and requires a wide band O2 sensor. To pay someone to do this, with a dyno, would cost at least $250.

Not dissing, but most people can't be bothered spending the coin or time to correctly set up their carbs after they put them on.

Been there, done that, won't do it again.






Cheers.

450 from 60l That's worse than the 351 in my GH its running a 3800 stall and 3.45 gears, though im not running e85

amgis_obrut wrote:450 from 60l That's worse than the 351 in my GH its running a 3800 stall and 3.45 gears, though im not running e85

I know, but with a 4.9 diff ratio and smaller wheels than standard, I'm sitting on 3300pm while cruising at 110kph.

With petrol, the figure would be better than 11L per 100k's which isn't bad.

I'm currently looking for a 3.3 - 3.9 ratio, LSD diff to increase my cruising economy by a further 20%.

The Triton has plenty of torque down low so it won't be a problem taking off with a heavy load.


Cheers.

Im pulling around 3100 @ 110

Im guessing you have a 5 speed ?

Superscan811 wrote:The Triton has plenty of torque down low so it won't be a problem taking off with a heavy load.
Cheers.

the 2.6 has plenty of bottom end even with a lot of work , in fact the fastest times my car pulled around Sandown it only used 3rd and 4th gears for the whole circuit

the slowest corner on the circuit ( Dandenong corner ) droping down to 2000 rpm in 3rd thats a 1000 revs under the cam , this produced faster lap times than droping a gear
and running to 7200 in 4th at the end of the straight

that with a 3.9 diff - 205/60 13s about the same rolling dia as 205/50 15s

$250 delivered to my shop price of 2.6 crate motor narrow block
kid you not
guy was an engine builder and had this sitting in his shop unclaimed for 10 years

totally stock except for balance shaft & jet valve removal
stock exhaust

only thing special is twin sidedraughts

once i got the tuning dialed in i was very pleased with seat horsepower
might add a cam in the future

$1500, came with a free Scorpion with a few moths rego on it
In all seriousness, last motor I put together cost me $800 inc. machine work.

I paid bit over 2k for my 4g32t once I got it home but we'll worth it for a one of a kind engine

They paid me $50 to take my mill away, mines a 2000 astron from a 84 I think. I brought it home in the boot of my sled. Looked cool tyed upright in there. I was laughing pretty hard as I cruised up the mainstreet deliberately slowing down to hit all of the lights. Cool I thought, a twin engine kustom.

Paid 500 for my 2l 4g63 5sp but got an l200 with it ,and an 800k road trip to bring it home sold wheels and tray and a deal ,so basically owes me 300
Paid 350 for my 2.6 and 5 sp ,..supposedly rebuilt... still tossing ideas around...

When I bought the wagon the intention was a cheap runabout for work..and a learn to drive car for a step daughter. When I was ready to sell it I discovered that no-one wants to buy Sigma Wagons. So began the project.
I bought an accident damaged Scorpion that had a factory Sigma Turbo kit fitted by it's previous owner. It also came with Starion front suspension and brakes. The original intention was to just bolt the turbo kit onto the stocky engine. Then I figured that as the motor had to come out to fit the turbo sump..I may as well have it recoed at the same time.
Took it to a local engine reco firm (who is a friend of a friend). Bored to 1st over size. The crank was OK and only had to be linished. Head had a full reco and the valves shimmed. The usual balance shaft elimination kit..TR oil pump. Copper head gaskit. The block went to an engineering firm to be O ringed ($400.00) At the time I had early adjustable rocker gear fitted..which later was swapped for Hydraulic lifters..which has now been replaced with roller rockers. The total cost for parts and labour (incl O rings) was around $1600.00. I bought an eBay turbo overhaul kit for the turbo..hasnt missed a beat. Had the pressure plate rebuilt 30% stronger and fitted a Starion turbo clutch plate.
And thats how it still is 12 years later.