help fitting carbie

[oldschool]

Ok dont flame me this might be a easy question i just started playing with cars agian and have forgot most things.
New carbie put on Q1 where do the two hoses that conect to the fuel pump go? and where do the two fuel hoses go that run off my carbie go? i know its to the fuel filter and fuel lines but which ones go to where?

Thanks in advance.

[turbol200]

i cant realy help you mate but photos are a good thing, thats what they tell us at TAFE any ways lol haha

[oldschool]

also between the carbie and the head is a hose in my pic its not connected to anything where does it go to?

[geezer101]

The vaccum line goes to a small outlet on the side of the rocker cover (it looks like it's hiding under the brake booster hose). Now, hopefully I've got this right.The fuel line with the filter goes to the fuel pump inlet (closest to the carby). The fuel pump outlet (facing away from the carby) goes to the middle inlet on the fuel recirculation cannister (the metal can with 3 inlets/outlets). The fuel line going from the top of the cannister connects to the top inlet on the accelerator pump (the small square cover on the side of the carby with 2 outlets parallel to each other). The bottom outlet on the accelerator pump goes to the return line. The fuel outlet on the bottom of the recirculation cannister goes to the fuel inlet on the top of the carby.

[oldschool]

Cheers for that il try it out tomorrow mate

[81GL]

Well said geezer!

& looks like there might be a fitting hiding under the accelerator cable

[geezer101]

I remember when I have to figure this mess out the first time- have you seen that movie Scanners where that dude's head explodes...

[oldschool]

Ok hooked everything up correctly put a new fuel filter in and poured a bit of fuel down the carby it turns over but wont start and the fuel wont pump into the filter any ideas?

[75wagon]

poured a bit of fuel down the carby it turns over but wont start and the fuel wont pump into the filter any ideas?

If you have poured fuel into the carb, and it is still not firing maybe it's not the carb? How do you know the carb needed changing in the first place? What made you start working on the car in the first place? I'm just trying to establish what work you have carried out for those who are trying to help you.
Start with the basics.
Check spark and timing.



Dave...

[oldschool]

Hi mate the car came complete minus the carbie, i have checked spark so i kind of narrowed it down to a fuel problem
Thanks.

[geezer101]

O.k. do you see fuel in the window on the side of the carby? No fuel could mean the fuel in/out hoses on the fuel pump are crossed over (there are like four or five different fuel pump configurations on these engines).

[oldschool]

There's no fuel in the window that i can see

[geezer101]

It's directly under the fuel inlet to the top of the carby. It's about the size of a 5 cent piece and has a small frosted dot etched into the middle of it. The dot represents where the bowl should be filled with fuel.

[oldschool]

I can see the window but theres no fuel in it

[75wagon]

Why don't you unbolt the fuel pump (leaving the fuel lines connected) and pump it by hand.
It will either pump fuel, or not.
If it doesn't either the fuel lines are reversed (so it's sucking fuel from the carb) or the pump doesn't work. Which could solve your problem.

[75wagon]

If the pump is pumping fuel, then you need to look at your needle, seat and float bowl.

[oldschool]

Thanks for your help il give it a go tomorrow
btw this is the car in question i saved it from getting crushed

[geezer101]

Shell looks solid, like most unloved gems just needs a polish! Good luck with the carby.

[shuggy]

looks amazing!

where are you located?`

[oldschool]

looks amazing!

thats what i thought! im in sydney

ok took the fuel pump off and pumped it manually now theres fuel in the window but still wont kick over, timings correct so im putting it down to the needle seat or float i might go get the carby rebuilt and see how i go

[ddt]

Now that's a real car. LOL- looks very much like mine!
I guess if u have fuel in the window now but can't see or smell fuel jetting into the bowl then you probably do need a rebuild.

Hope you get her running sweet soon.

[oldschool]

I wish mine looked as good as yours (you got good taste lol)

spoke to a carby specialist this arvo and he said even if the carb was rooted it should still start and cough and splutter with fuel tipped down the throat he seems to think its something else.
any other tips before i shell out a few hundred getting it rebuilt?
Any sigma specialists around Narrellan want a cashie to have a look?

[75wagon]

Do you know how, or have the equipment to check the basics?
Compression
Spark
Timing (when i refer to timing, I mean both ignition timing, and crank to cam timing).

I think it is wise, not to spend money or getting things rebuilt until you are sure that is exactly what the problem is.

Dave...

[ddt]

well, if you're certain you have spark where it counts then at least it means you don't have to worry about imobilisers, hidden kill switches or some kind of electrical gremlin.
So sounds like a fuel problem to me. Even with crap compression in one or two cylinders, you should hear some signs of life when turning over. You said you didn't have fuel at the window earlier until you pumped manually so there's definitely some issue there to resolve first i think. Need to double check how it's all hooked up?

Which carby are you using?

[oldschool]

its a solex carbie is the feul pump the same in the 2.6l engine?

[ddt]

I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is the same (or equivalent) in the 2.6.
Here's a diagram of the fuel line setup that Geezer101 correctly described above. You've probably got it hooked up right already but it might help someone else in the future who's searching through this thread.


Maybe a problem with the fuel-cut solenoid on the carby?

[oldschool]

Great diagram thanks for puttting it up it might help the next person with similar troubles

[oldschool]

Ok Ive been playing with the distributor and it almost sounds like its gunna kick over, if i unbolt it i can slide it up or down a few degrees does this effect the timing also if caps been taken of and the rotor moved do i just align it to no 1 plug agian?

[75wagon]

Set the crank pulley to TDC.
Then set the distributor rotor button to point at number 1 on the cap. That will give you 0 deg.
You want to achieve between 8 to 10 degs.

Do you have a timing light?

Dave...

[81GL]

The cap is keyed so it will only go on one way; same with the rotor.

As Dave said above, also open the oil cap and see if you can rock 'both' of the rockers for cylinder 1 - if you can this means it is ready to fire, if you cant, that means cylinder 4 is, so rotate the crank another 360 degrees.

PS: I'm guessing you don't have a work shop manual? do you plan on keep the car?