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Hi.

I have an lb lancer which i recently had the head redone after sitting for a while. Although it idled ok it wouldnt accelerate and kept missing. After changing points it ran better for a bit but seems to keep arcing them out and they grt worse. Then it would idle, but after about 30 sec it would falter, like it was arcing on something. replacing the distributor did not fix this issue. We have checked carb and it seems to be fueling ok. we have tried 3 different coils, and im beginning to run out of ideas. any suggestions?

Are all the timing marks lining up on the belt or chain.
Intake manifold gasket sealed ok ?

ignition leads maybe?
if it has been sitting i always change the cheap basics first, plugs, leads, points, condenser, rotor button and dizzy cap..
as stated above check vac lines and inlet gasket..
also..
carb might be overfueling?
how old is the fuel?
does it rev up if you accelerate?
any smoke out the exhaust?

Could be water getting in throught ur inlet manifold gaskets like the others have said. Also where ur carby bolts on to the manifold there is a little water port that shoots up into the carb for cooling. if that gasket is gone it could be sucking water in there aswell. Good luck anyways. Im sure you will solve it

I have now completely overhauled dizzy redid points, leads, cleaned cap and rotor and it ran great,..... Yntil it warmed up. vaccum advance seemed a bit sticky tho. Is there a way to overhaul these?

And belt, timing seem ok although i am missing covers so doing it by 'feel'. will give it a recheck just in case

What does it do when it warms up?

When warm it stuggles to idle and will miss under accelleration.

Is the choke system working properly?
Can you do a compression test?
Bad fuel?

Well I eventually got sick of looking at it parked up and decided that after scratching my head for ages I am still not sure on cause. So to ensure the problem is fixed i will be installing:

New Head & gaskets
New Dizzy, cap, leads, plugs ect
New Carbie (Possibly a webber DGAV if i can find the adaptor plate)
Extractors (Online auction $22.....why not?)

Im sure ill add to this list as it gets further dismantled. I guess if it still doesnt work ill have to do the sensible thing and fiind a 4g63T. Thatll teach it!

Just a thought bloke, make sure your ballast resistor connections are clean and tight.

Ok,

So, I have now checked it over and:

New carb changed over
Checked for leaks on air lines,
established that there is in fact spark at plugs
new points, condenser
compression test at 110psi on all cylinders
timing belt correct
valve clearances on rocker all good.

Car will now start runs extremely rough and requires full throttle just to idle.

i am officially out of ideas....

Any help?

I'd still be looking at timing. If it seems to be running o.k. while cold and it's getting full advance until the choke cuts the revs, I would take a timing light to it and see what is going on in there. Or there is something really annoying going on - contamination in the fuel lines/tank. How does the fuel filter look - any signs of debris in there? Might already have blocked a jet up - not nice with a new carby ...

Is it a new (or overhauled) carb ? If you have just bolted a Weber 32/36to it, don't expect it to necessarily be jetted correctly, either (they were designed for a 2L motor).

I'd be thinking timing also ... unless maybe the needle/seat is stuck and it's flooding ?

FWIW, 110psi compression is way lower than it should be. Workshop manual spec is 149psi for a 4G32.

RuffDiamond wrote:Hi.

I have an lb lancer which i recently had the head redone after sitting for a while. Although it idled ok it wouldnt accelerate and kept missing. After changing points it ran better for a bit but seems to keep arcing them out and they grt worse. Then it would idle, but after about 30 sec it would falter, like it was arcing on something. replacing the distributor did not fix this issue. We have checked carb and it seems to be fueling ok. we have tried 3 different coils, and im beginning to run out of ideas. any suggestions?

These symptoms sound like a coil wired in backwards. Not enough oomph during load, and arcs points out quick. A car will idle and even run with a coil in backwards. But if you have tried three I guess you checked they were all around the right way. I am not sure why you are looking at carburetor issues if the above are the symptoms? A carburetor will not burn out points quick, or run better with new points?

Thanks guys. After just deciding to buy new instead of going to the wreckers for everything I found it was at least one or a mixture of:

Clogged jets in carb.
Faulty Coil.
Faulty Vacuum advance.
Incorrect Microfarrat rating on condenser on distributor.

Now it purrs beautifully. Problem is now, After spending so long outside I need to re-rust proof and paint it (it needed paint anyway).

Anyone know where any good panels/bumpers are in NZ