GC galant Issues, please help.

[bth]

G'day guys,
New to the galant scene, and also to the car resto scene. I have a few issues that need sorting and would like some assistance. I sifted through a lot of the previous posts and couldn't find anything except for one thing.

1st problem: Hand brake goes up three-four clicks, holds the car in its place, but i wouldn't hold it on a gentle slope. what could the problem/solution be? Also how bad are rear drum brakes to work with?

2nd problem: Choke does not open by itself, even with revs. Car starts, idles and runs fine, but blows dirty black smoke. what could the problem/solution be? Ive been told to refurb the carby with new gaskets, a good clean ect.. anyone have any tips?
also note that the temp of the car did not reach half way point, it sat just below 1third, problem with the gauge, or could this be related to the choke? I had the car runnning for about 20 minutes by then.

3rd problem: Transmission, the car shudders and grinds when put into D, and doesnt go anywhere, even with the handbrake off, until i accellerate, then it goes OK. ideas? solutions? argh.

Im trying to make this a quick build, as in, two months. Im slightly mechanically minded, however have a few people who will be able to lend a hand.
Thanks guys! Muchos Aprrecious.

[75wagon]

1st problem: Hand brake goes up three-four clicks, holds the car in its place, but i wouldn't hold it on a gentle slope. what could the problem/solution be?

Have at look at the brake shoes and see what kind of condition they are in. Give them a bit of adjustment while you are there.

how bad are rear drum brakes to work with?

They're good to work with, and pretty basic to work on.

2nd problem: Choke does not open by itself, even with revs. Car starts, idles and runs fine, but blows dirty black smoke. what could the problem/solution be?

You have a problem with your choke. It should open. Does your heater get hot?
The choke opens when the coolant reaches operating temp (or should). If your heater gets hot, and the choke still doesn't open, then the auto choke could just be out of adjustment?
Check the hoses that attach to your auto choke housing. Make sure they aren't blocked.
How much coolant/water is in the cooling system?
If full, you could have a blocked cooling system?

Ive been told to refurb the carby with new gaskets, a good clean ect.. anyone have any tips?

I would look at things that don't cost money first. The Solex Mukini carbs are a basic bit of gear, and are very rarely have a problem.

also note that the temp of the car did not reach half way point, it sat just below 1third, problem with the gauge, or could this be related to the choke? I had the car runnning for about 20 minutes by then.

The choke doesn't effect the temp the motor runs at, just the smoothness of idle when cold. It could be the gauge.
I'd have a good look at your cooling system.

3rd problem: Transmission, the car shudders and grinds when put into D, and doesnt go anywhere, even with the handbrake off, until i accellerate, then it goes OK. ideas? solutions? argh.

Check the level off auto fluid.
To do this, park on flat ground, put on the handbrake, start the motor, place the gearshift in N for Neutral. While the motor is running pull the dipstick out of the gearbox.
Auto levels are always checked with the motor running.



By the sounds of things, I think most of your problem is with your cooling system.
With the radiator cap off, start and run the car for a while. Watch the cap hole and look for coolant movement across? Does the coolant warm up or stay cold? When it's up to temp, you should be able to see movement. If you can't, you either have a blocked thermostat, or a stuffed water pump.

While your playing around with the car, give it a tune up, clean and gap the plugs, adjust the points and make sure all ignition connections are clean.

Do you have a workshop manual? If not get one.

Dave...

[bth]

Dave, thanks for that great response.

Have at look at the brake shoes and see what kind of condition they are in. Give them a bit of adjustment while you are there

.
Brake shoes, right. how do i adjust? sorry for such stupid questions! however thats the way you learn i guess.

They're good to work with, and pretty basic to work on.

excellent, ill have a play when its in the garage.

You have a problem with your choke. It should open. Does your heater get hot?

The heater has been disconnected by previous owner.

The choke opens when the coolant reaches operating temp (or should). If your heater gets hot, and the choke still doesn't open, then the auto choke could just be out of adjustment?

I had a look around and saw this might have been one of the problems, i took the air filter housing off and adjusted the choke to stay open all the time.

How much coolant/water is in the cooling system?
If full, you could have a blocked cooling system?

It is full, i am going to do a coolant flush and put new hoses in and fresh coolant in asap. The hoses are crunchy.

I would look at things that don't cost money first. The Solex Mukini carbs are a basic bit of gear, and are very rarely have a problem.

Am looking for a place in brisbane to do a refurb swap with me. will keep this page updates.

The choke doesn't effect the temp the motor runs at, just the smoothness of idle when cold. It could be the gauge.
I'd have a good look at your cooling system.

Going to check if the thermostat has been removed. will check temp in a minute of the coolant.

Check the level off auto fluid.
To do this, park on flat ground, put on the handbrake, start the motor, place the gearshift in N for Neutral. While the motor is running pull the dipstick out of the gearbox.
Auto levels are always checked with the motor running.

Hopefully this will work. I bought some transmission oil so thats ready to be changed when i get around to it. (how much will i need? i wasnt sure..)


By the sounds of things, I think most of your problem is with your cooling system.
With the radiator cap off, start and run the car for a while. Watch the cap hole and look for coolant movement across? Does the coolant warm up or stay cold? When it's up to temp, you should be able to see movement. If you can't, you either have a blocked thermostat, or a stuffed water pump.

While your playing around with the car, give it a tune up, clean and gap the plugs, adjust the points and make sure all ignition connections are clean.

Yeah i changed all the spark plugs, correct gaps, replaced leads, general tidiness. Will replace distributor/cap in the next couple months, and slowly replace everything.

Do you have a workshop manual? If not get one.

Just bought one off ebay last night (:


Thanks for your help dave, so much appreciation for you! will report back either tomorrow, or this arvo/tonight.

[astronturbo77]

G'day guys,
New to the galant scene, and also to the car resto scene. I have a few issues that need sorting and would like some assistance. I sifted through a lot of the previous posts and couldn't find anything except for one thing.

1st problem: Hand brake goes up three-four clicks, holds the car in its place, but i wouldn't hold it on a gentle slope. what could the problem/solution be? Also how bad are rear drum brakes to work with?

take off the rear drums and have a look what the linings are like thickness wise, is the drum grooved? are the wheel cylinders leaking? if all ok there is a ratchet type adjuster in there, adjust the shoes so there is slight resistance when turning the drum. then your handbrake should hold.

2nd problem: Choke does not open by itself, even with revs. Car starts, idles and runs fine, but blows dirty black smoke. what could the problem/solution be? Ive been told to refurb the carby with new gaskets, a good clean ect.. anyone have any tips?
also note that the temp of the car did not reach half way point, it sat just below 1third, problem with the gauge, or could this be related to the choke? I had the car runnning for about 20 minutes by then.

the choke on these has a bimetalic strip that opens the choke plate as the water heats it, (the strip expands and gets longer) check to see if the hoses going to the back of the carby are getting warm and water is getting in there, the car should idle at 1500rpm untill you blip the throttle and the choke comes off by itself once warm.

3rd problem: Transmission, the car shudders and grinds when put into D, and doesnt go anywhere, even with the handbrake off, until i accellerate, then it goes OK. ideas? solutions? argh. sounds like a fucked trans, checked the fluid level and condition?

Im trying to make this a quick build, as in, two months. Im slightly mechanically minded, however have a few people who will be able to lend a hand.
Thanks guys! Muchos Aprrecious.

sounds like you need a gregory's manual to help you out, would be a good asset to you, im a mechanic by trade but its a bit hard to explain things over the net if you get what i mean your doing well

[bth]

So, I had alook at the cooling system, gave it a flush, took or the thermostat to see if it was okay, all good.put a new gasket in, madsure the pump was working, all okay. Water still not getting above 60ish in the radiator, is this okay? Can't see the water moving at all either.

Choke choked up again, won't open without help. Gasket kit will definitely do that good. I think?

[75wagon]

Choke choked up again, won't open without help. Gasket kit will definitely do that good. I think?

A Gasket kit wont make any difference to that. There's no gaskets in it.
Try taking off the hoses and check there is coolant getting through.
If coolant isn't getting through, then the choke won't do anything.

Water still not getting above 60ish in the radiator, is this okay? Can't see the water moving at all either.

It should be hot like in a kettle.
If you can't see water moving then you have a problem.

took or the thermostat to see if it was okay, all good.

You can't tell by looking at it.
The only way you can check it (out of the car) is to boil water in a saucepan (or something similar) with the thermostat submerged (but not touching the bottom of the pot). If the water boils, and the thermostat doesn't open, throw it in the bin.

Brake shoes, right. how do i adjust?

There is a rubber grommet in the backing plate. And an adjuster inside. Take the drum off and look at the mechanism and how it works. There is a toothed adjuster, with the brake drum on tighten up the adjustment. Make sure the drum can still spin when the brakes aren't on.

The heater has been disconnected by previous owner.

Probably because the heater core leaks, or the tap is seized open. either way, you should fix it. If not just for more pleasant driving during cold weather, the heater can be a God send if you ever suffer from over heating. If you ever see the temp spike, just turn the heater and fan both on full, and watch the temp drop. The heater and fan fix has got me out of some awkward situations in the past.

I bought some transmission oil so thats ready to be changed when i get around to it. (how much will i need? i wasnt sure..)

I don't know off the top of my head, but it should only need a top up to get it running right.
The workshop manual will give you that info when you get it.


Dave...

[Torana68]

bth wrote:
Choke choked up again, won't open without help. Gasket kit will definitely do that good. I think?

A Gasket kit wont make any difference to that. There's no gaskets in it.

choke needs adjusting, check your manual, there is a gasket in there, it keeps the water in.
Dont change the autos oil unless you can take the pan off and adjust it at the same time. If its full and not behaving you need to have it checked and adjusted if you dont have the skills.....

[A112H]

You have a problem with your choke. It should open. Does your heater get hot?

The heater has been disconnected by previous owner.

Are the choke lines still connected?

[bth]

Thanks guys,
Dave i had poured boiling water over the thermostat for a few seconds till it opened up, so thats not that problem. I hope my radiator isnt stuffed.
Will get new hoses ect. next week. Will check the heater core too. Put some trans fluid in, changes alot better now, also less crunching.

I can't have a look at the drums until i've got it in the garage up the road, but i'll at least be able to bleed the lines and replace brake pads on the front before hand.

Will take a good look at the heater core once i've got my gregorys manual, should be here within a couple days.

[75wagon]

Dont change the autos oil unless you can take the pan off and adjust it at the same time. If its full and not behaving you need to have it checked and adjusted if you dont have the skills.....

Either that, or come and get the autobox out of my garage. I want it gone, and the one out of my GD wagon will be available too, when I start changing things on it, but for now I need it in there so it can drive.

choke needs adjusting, check your manual, there is a gasket in there, it keeps the water in.

To tell the truth I've never looked. But I suppose, it would only need replacing if you can see it has a leak.

My main concern with the cooling issues with this car is blocked cooling galleries in the head?
The GD wagon I have in my garage was suffering from that problem.

Dave i had poured boiling water over the thermostat for a few seconds till it opened up, so thats not that problem.

Good

I hope my radiator isnt stuffed.

I doubt that will be your problem, that would make it run hot, not cold.

Will get new hoses ect. next week.

Try to establish what the problem is.
I have been guilty in the past of throwing money at parts and hoping it solves the problem. Truth is, until you can be sure exactly what the problem is, you are probably better keeping your money in your pocket.

It's like the old rule, 'measure twice cut once'.

Dave...

[bth]

Alrighty, transmission is running like a beauty! All it needed was to be topped up. Can barely feel the gear changes. The car is running is smooth and quiet its crazy.

The Choke is now fully functioning, and water is now flowing properly through the radiator. I did a violent flush which caused quite a bit of shit to come out of the bottom radiator hose out of the engine. Thank god for that! I was expecting to have to purchase a new radiator pump and do a carby exchange. (:

Although! i am still having trouble with my guage, it just can't seem to get past the 1/3 mark. it hangs just below it? Anyone know norm. operating temp?

The next things on the list:

Rust
Steering
Rear brakes
Oil change/filter change

And that should be it to get her on the road (: