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stealth wrote:ah its all good billsy
ive been smashing out all these turbo manifolds now and have 4 different jigs
so it aint a prob
and yeah will run a beanie either way (small as engine bay)
ps will pm you soon about a megasquirt for my v6!
cheers stealth

for the v6... Nice

yeah, its lucky ive got space. if i had a gally the tig would be getting a workout.
you thought of a beanie or heat shield made from something like HR140-GTR alloy mat?

ill report back in a few weeks after ive fitted it and had a tune etc etc.

it does fit on a siggy manifold... with 40mm of spacer on it.

im going to try one aswell, before i wait for a good priced 35R

DVSGAL wrote:still no pics?
or
No one showed??

i did a little skid, and popped some flames. but no pics

81pw wrote:block the return on the electric pump? wont it build up to much presser in the line?

if your injected you need the return, if its carby you can probably get away with it blocked, most clicky clicky pumps cant go past about 7 psi or are regulated.

mitchell wrote:do you both have stock engines internally?

it was at the time an astron2 with astron1 dished pistons in it.

mitchell wrote:what turbo are you running billsy? im using an evo 7 one, its a pretty good match for the 2.6 though maybe
a tad small for top end power

a crappy ebay t04 did that.

that would make it tomorrow me thinks

Very nice

steering wheel is on the wrong side though

i was making 300+hp from stock astron bits. but old age and wear eventually took its toll.
it lasted 10,000kms at 20+psi though

now with a fresh rebuild im aiming for 400 rwhp

minus labour to fabricate and fit/tune parts, you could build a 200kw 2.6 for around $1500 if you can do all the work yourself, otherwise atleast triple the figures to include labour using the stock engine sigma turbo manifold and T3 flange or DIY log style manifold less than $100 for log or about $...

so who else is bring a turbo?

this should be good to "runin" the engine lol
done less than 200ks so far

as far as oil starvation, how many people change the sump to get more oil in and get some decent baffling? i changed to a magna sump and pickup and added an extra baffle, it does sit lower but is much better than tha shitty sigma sump that would could let everything slosh to the back under hard acce...

i do pipe/metal fabwork from home and for those who want it. mainly simply things like exhausts, dump pipes, intercooler kits, catch cans and header tanks etc. alloy or stainless, been playing around a bit with electronics now though, programmable ecus eetc soon will be able to provide pre configure...

yeah mate, the 044 will be fine

if its a std commo engine then std comme fuel pump will be plenty,
you could also just fit a surge tank and then you could run the std tank and have as much or as little fuel in it as you like.

thats what ive got, using a VL pump as a lift and a 910 as the main pump

how long between failures? at what rpm did it happen and what oil were you running?

.0015 mains .002 max .002/.003 rods .005 crank float .004/ .006 max rod side clearance oil pump rotor tip .004 rotor to cover .005 end float .003/.004 shaft to cover .002 max and for the vavles .001/.003 this is what i run my engines at but always pay the money and have you bottom end balanced by a...

ok , just to jump in on several leads here. ill start on the actual topic. balance shafts ive just fired up my new engine tonight and with no balance shafts i am definitely getting that Buzz (actually a very loud horrid vibration) and the engine definitely doesnt feel as smooth. now engine clearance...

ive just pulled my engine down and the pump had started to score the housing.
it still had the balance shafts in aswell. so ive got another pump and no balance shaft.

incase of any headgasket failure it always pays to get the head decked and check the block. i just had my engine decked and the block was out by about .006 i had a dirty cheap non monotorque gasket on and it was perfect when i pulled it down. after about 12 months and 10k at 200+kw i was cheering to...

does anyone shim their oil pumps to raise the pressure slightly, and hence the flow rate.
i know its a common thing to do on many engines, but never seen it on here regarding the astrons.

if you can be bothered, take the housings off and measure the inducer and the exducer of the wheels.
then you can work out what it is, or atleast what its equivalent to

had a very quick look, 409115 is a garrett compressor housing part number

in that case.... Sweet as

they have nicer gear ratios, and feel smoother that the borgy.
other than that, if your borgy is in good nick id leave it there, but the jap box is nicer all round to drive with.

if thats the long weekend, im out
pity too, itll be turbod by then

Hai

see you found the place ok

ill take some when i get it all back from tony

mic_77 wrote:ACL cast will hold 400rwhp.


cheers Mic

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