Sigma-galant.com

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The best thing to do is get a coat of paint on it ASAP. Etch primer and undercoat won't keep the water of it completely. However there are products that are designed to be used to remove that light surface rust and leave it ready for paint. They are basically a phosphoric acid solution that you pour...

Not sure about the KH11's, but I run the KU31's on the Galant. These are the next level above the KH11's, and then you have KU36's which are getting into semi-slick territory. KH11<KU31<KU36 So far I've done around 11000ks on the KU31's and have found them to be a great tyre. Plenty of grip in the w...

That sounds kinda like one of my old Scorps. Had a set of old 4-2-1 extractors, and I wanted a sports exhaust. I couldn't afford one, but did have a few old standard systems. The extractors went into a short section on 2 1/4" that I then split back into 2 which were the the standard 1 3/4"...

Galant wagon smells like Auto transmission fluid. I knew i should have checked if the box had been drained or not before i stuck it in the back.

Oh well. Should help prevent rust.

What about the rotor button inside the dizzy? They are located on the shaft with a plastic key and i've managed to sheer off 2 of them (1 in a magna efi dizzy, the other a GH Sigma). With the sigma the battery had come loose and I didn't know. Was driving great till I went to take off quickly at a s...

Yep. Registered and Engineered too I believe.

From what I understand it will still be possible, however the issue is with finding an engineer that will be able to pass it off. The RTA are bringing in a new scheme that is compulsory for engineers to join in order to pass cars, but at the same time it is very expensive and leaves the engineer wit...

I'm thinking of going 4G63 anyway, but then engine came up at a great price. Obviously not worth the trouble to try and fit compared to a 4G63, but I've still got myself a set of quad throttle bodies and a motec out of it all which I may end up using on whatever does go into it.

Got an LA Lancer here in need of an engine, and managed to score a good deal on a 4G92 SOHC engine that had been used in a FWD rally car. Worked bottom end, forged pistons, ported head, quad throttle bodys, motec ecu and so on for $760, how could I say no. (H) A quick google search showed that the 4...

Could be. I have my computer and phone auto login and don't have any issues with them.

That won't work with the Scorp master cylinder though. You'll need to run a Sigma master.

Just edited my post above with some measurements. I'd try a GH Scorp booster if you only need 20mm.

The booster in my Galant is a lot smaller than the Scorp, and the Lancer is even smaller again. They should give the required clearance but i'm not sure on the legality of it. Another option I have seen is to modify the valve cover slighty (corner cut off and welded up) but this would only give an e...

I have a 1uz here i was going to dummy up, haven't got around to it yet. Got a new engine hoist today so hopefully I will soon.

What about the badge on my LA Lancer then? It has the Mitsubishi diamond logo above the horses head (and it needs a polish too).

My Galant has a Valiant badge. Does that count?

Does the starter work OK?

Just go ahead and do it without worrying about the crank, etc.

The turbos used a 2.6 cam due to less duration and overlap then the standard 2.0 cam. Here are the specs direct from the factory manual. Valve Timing Inlet opens 2.0 24 BTDC turbo/2.6 25 BTDC Inlet closes 2.0 64 ABDC turbo/2.6 59 ABDC Duration 2.0 268 degress turbo/2.6 264 degrees Exhaust opens 2.0 ...

Does it run an ignition ballast resistor? I've had a similar issue in the past where the car would start up fine but die as soon as you let go of the key. The coil was getting power while cranking but nothing when the key turned back to run.

It won't be a strip or track demon, but it will be driven spiritedly on tight twisty stuff. That's the type of driving I enjoy most. And for anyone who has seen me drive my GC wagon in these conditions, they would be able to tell you I can make the most I have of very little. I'd be tempted to go a...

The standard borg warner diff lasted about a month behind my VR4 conversion. Seemed to be holding up ok, then one night i was on my way home from work, gave it a bit of a squirt exiting a corner and it went bang. Completely destroyed the center. I can spin the axles or input flange by hand and nothi...

I'd straighten out the worst of the dents like the guard with a hammer and dolly, hit it with some rust converter to stop the rust, and leave it. That would make it an awesome sleeper.

They use 5 3/4" round lights. They used to be fairly common so you can buy a semi-sealed version that take regular H4 globes. They just aren't as common as the 7" version, but most good parts mobs should be able to get them. If it's one of the high beams you could always use some aircraft ...

The later Scorp diffs do use larger diameter bolts. The GE and GH Scorp diffs had the same size as the early Sigma's and Galants.

I've used a de-comp plate a while ago. I sprayed it with hylomar then stuck it straight onto the block, then sprayed a head gasket with the hylomar and stuck it on top. Never gave me any issues.

Block - Decompression plate - head gasket - head.

I've removed the ballast resistor and module from my GH as i'm running a VR4 engine. I'll just list what wires go where and what i did with them. Not exactly sure how this will work with the Starion ignition system. Module: Black - Earth - not needed. Green - dizzy - removed as not needed with the V...

Sigma seemed to like it was just cruising around. Some of the other cars were all over the place and bouncing around like they had pogo sticks rather than shocks.

Wiring looks to be connected to the light in the top of it - probably just one of those flashing one to make people think it has an alarm.