What you will need
- a work space preferably well ventilated and as dust free as possible
- a worn badge or two
- 800 grit wet and dry sand paper
- green scotch bright pad
- sanding block
- wooden tooth pick
- extendable blade hobby/stanly knife
- masking tape
- molding tape
- paper towels
- news paper
- bucket
- water
- Dy-Mark paint marker, in my case I used red
- mystery material, which you will find out about as this progresses
- time and patience
What to do and how to do it???
step 1 - Once the badge is removed from the car remove all old contact adhesive/molding tape off the back of the badge using the stanly knife or wet and dry sand paper in a bucket of water at this point carefully sand the front of the badge down with the 800grit wet and dry till your left with a nice clean flat surface to work with, using the scotch bright to get between the lettering or any where else the sand paper in general cant get to, then dry off with a paper towel.
step 2 - Take your paint marker and as evenly as possible colour in the face of the lettering, don't be too alarmed if it looks rough or you've painted over the edges, at this point you can use the tooth pick to rub off any drips/runs that have gone over the edges. The idea of using this marker is to promote adhesion for the next layer like a primer for the base coat of paint. Which will be the mystery material.
step 3 - With my badges I decided I wanted them to be red and a little darker than the factory red at that. so ready for the mystery material ?
nail polish.. yes yes I know and ill explain my reason for it in a minute
after trying so many different types of paint masking and unmasking i found it was very difficult and very time consuming achieving a perfect strait edge, after a suggestion I thought I would give it a go and found it was the perfect viscosity to work with and with the added layer from the paint maker I found it tends to bond better and not run to any where else on the work piece
so pretty much apply the nail polish to the surface of the lettering once again as evenly as you can then set aside to dry, once dry give it gentle sand with the 800 grit wet and dry and a block, dry off and apply the second coat.
sanding between coats, as you can see it goes on clumpy but wont go over the edges very easily, if you rub through the edges like I did here on the "R" reapply the paint marker on only the plastic showing and reapply the nail polish on your second coat as well as filling in the low spots and wet sand again.
step 3 At this point the badge should be wet blocked and lettering should look flat like this
at this point, double check all edges and double check for dirt / old material/paint /dust stuck in the corners of the lettering. As you can see in this pic theres some blue paint left over from the previous owner having painted this badge blue. once your happy with the quality of your work proceed to step 4
step 4 Take a sheet of news paper ( I used an A4 sheet of paper because it was closer but you can do the same
) and make a loop with your masking tape, sticky side out so secure your work piece to your work surface to stop it from getting blown away.. trust me it can and will happen 
then apply your clear coat ****
**** clear coat tip ****
when applying your clear DO NOT try to get full coverage in one pass
apply multiple smooth even coats horizontally and vertically allowing 3 to 5 mins between coats
allow 12 - 24 hours for the clear coat to fully dry
step5 Apply new molding tape
and reapply to car
done
comments and suggestions welcome
