Sigma-galant.com

Well as the life of GVR4 ended, a new one began. Still building the 2.3 that was going to be used in the VR4, but now it will be for the '76 Coupe.
Here are all my plans

Refresher pic of the Coupe

Setup

Bottom End - 2.3 Stroker
Eagle Stroker Crank
Mahle pistons
Manley Rods

Head
Single Springs - not sure on brand yet
Retainers - not sure on brand yet
Delta Cams 272s
Adjustable Cam Gears
Using a 1.8l water neck (parallel with head)
Either Modified Evo 8/9 intake manifold or a sheet metal intake. The Evo would work, just need to cut the flange off and weld on a early generation 4g63 flange.
Evo 8 Exhaust Manifold
Evo 8/9 Big 16g (Faces the correct way I need)

Drivetrain
Toyota W58 5spd Transmission
Either a Hochiroku or Mk2/Mk3 Supra, or Hilux rear differential
Custom Driveshaft

Suspension
stock for now, would like to go 3 or 4 link in the future and coilovers.

Electronics
1g DSM Engine Harness
Eprom Ecu w/ Link
Autometer Instrument Gauges - Speedo, Tacho, Quad Gauge (Fuel, Oil, Volt, Water)

Exterior
Repair rear rot behind rear windshield
New Paint
GC Galant Conversion
- Coupe Grill with dual headlights
- Small front bumper
- Small Rear Bumper
- GC Galant Tail Lights (Already have in possession) - Thanks Jason
- Replace all Colt and Dodge badges with Mitsu and Galant fender badges (Already have, fender badges need refinishing) - Thanks Jason

Wheels? when I get there

Interior
Reupholster the Interior
put my newish center console in
Dash pad idk what to do about.

Already sourced a W58 trans from a friend just need to focus on the decision for the rear. I was think a hilux, but by technicality they weren't imported here and were just "pickups". I suppose only one way to find out how strong it will be.

Oh here is filthy engine pics
What was once the VR4's motor, yeah it's filthy.








Stroker Crank



Block in the Machine Shop currently, head is trash, but I knew that from the start after developing stripped exhaust manifold stud holes. Replaced the stock ones with ARP ones and yeah not soo much on a couple of them. The VR4 is too rusty on rear underbody to want to deal with right now, more cost effective to source a new shell and start over.

Good call on the J-spec exterior conversion. Those bumpers look ridiculous

What are you doing about the CAS? I employed the "massage" technique but I'm not so proud of it. Had to belt waaaaay further into the fire wall than I felt comfortable doing. And it still only just fits.

If I wasn't being such a tight arse I would have used the crank trigger setup that jayracing.com sell.

Sounds like its going to be a beast!

I'll deal with when I get to that point and I'll be sure to post some pics up for you . I just realized the CAS situation might be interesting as my car is LHD and the brake master cylinder in on the Left side, but that leaves plenty of space for turbo on the other hand..oh well.

The CAS sits right over where the heater hoses pass through the firewall, so if that's clear of your brake master then you're good!

Flying out to Wisconsin (Midwest US) next month to pull her out of storage and ship her out to my house in the North West. Excited to do some wrench turning and then modifying begins! Aussie exterior conversion will be first, then pushing forward with the actual build.

Question though, has anyone tried adapting 6th gen Galant VR4 fuel tank to the early Galants? I have a couple choices I'm considering, one is a gvr4 tank, another is off a awd '91 Eagle talon (similar to the vr4) or a 91-94 fwd talon/eclipse (fuel pump is mounted on the front side of tank rather than on top of tank).

Hi Tim,
Just use your factory tank, use a facet pump to draw fuel into a surge tank then a high pressure pump to feed the engine. Bosch 044 or Bosch 910 or similar will do the trick.
I will be very proud to see part of my hardtop going to use on the other side of the globe ;)

This seems to be a popular engine upgrade for this style/era of car. I have been meaning to ask this question for some time- wouldn't it be easier to move the entire drivetrain 50-60mm further forward to avoid all the CAS and rear water outlet issues? Most gearbox upgrades usually result in the shifter hole being cut out to accomodate the stick being too far back anyway. Just a thought- any feedback on this?

I think you will find the bell housing will foul on the drag link if you tried to move it forward. Converting it to a crank trigger set up is best.

That would put the weight of the engine too far forward and ruin the balance of the car, creating an understeery pig from what I understand. The Audi Quattro suffered from the same problem, engine too far forward creating understeer due to excessive front-heaviness. Not to mention the obvious radiator, bellhousing etc clearance issues.
Best to just attack the firewall with a hammer or convert it to run a crank trigger setup.

The engine bay is bigger than the GA/GB's- yanking the radiator spacer out of the way will easily free up 50mm. But you are dead right about the drag link- forgot all about that. But moving the engine forward such a small amount wouldn't screw up the chassis dynamics that badly, would it?

I dunno, I'd assume it would have some negative effect on handling. Think about it, you're moving 100kg of cast iron 50mm further forward than it was intended to be, that's a lot of weight to be moving about in such a light car. If it were a Sigma/Scorpion etc then it wouldn't be as much of a problem.

Small bumpers and GC Coupe Grill arrive tomorrow!

Awesome. How is the engine build coming along?

Had to use a different head, the stock one had stripped exhaust stud holes. Anyway it's in the machine shop getting port n polished, cleaned up, new valvetrain and the cams reground. Need to take the time and put the Megasquirt ECU harness together for when it comes to wire everything up, the ECU has a built in 4 bar map sensor . Then I can work on the other odds and ends. Still going to venture to attempt putting my spare vr4 fuel tank on the car, it has it's bonuses, holds more fuel (16gal/60.5 liters) and already has a walbro 255lph pump installed. Might as well use it since it's just hanging out in my garage.

Might as well give it a crack if it is just taking up space in the shed.
Sounds like it is coming together, lookong forward to seeing the out come. Will be very cool to see an AUDM Galant overseas

Finally unwrapped the bumpers and grill last night.

WOOHOO, there are a few people here in Aus that will be jealous of ya grill
To make the headlights work you should be able to pinch the lights and buckets from an early Dodge Ram50 (L200) with the twin round headlights.

Edit, just had a look and I think you guys started with the twin rectangle head lights not the earlier twin round
The buckets from a first gen Dodge Colt or a pretty much anything running twin 5 & 3/4" headlights

I was going to do the aircraft landing lights in the inner holes and just wire them up to a completely separate switch. Just turn them into really big and bright fog lights! Since the stock lights are dual filament for high/low beams.

Nice

my coupe grill and front bar

A new battery brought her back to life yesterday, rear brakes were stuck pretty good from the ebrake being set while it was stored. Pretty dusty as well, but that classic car scent inside made my day and after it started up. Took it for a wash and put some new gas in. Found my leaks in the carwash again! Need a full set of window rubbers, LH side leaks from the front corner, RH side through the door lock panel and door, middle top of front windshield. Trunk needs a new seal as well. Spent the evening rubbing the paint down, ridding it of the oxidation you see in my first post. Just have the LH door and quarter panel to finish then I can wax and post pics. Needs tires badly, cracks in the sidewalls because they are so old, tire size is unknown as it only says 165/SR/13 lol

Okay paint all cleaned up...other than various small parts and the trunk rot.

"Dam, he cleans up nice"

Shame about the rust under the rear window

Yeah, that will probably have to be cut and have new stuff welded in. Do you know anywhere out there that has and would ship overseas a set of Coupe window & door weather seals? Pretty sure I need a complete set! every weather seal is dried up and useless.

I think this is about as close to a full kit as you will get Tim, even includes the boot (trunk) seal.
They will ship to you too.
http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares ... oduct=GAL2

I have a pair of their glass dividers and they are pretty good quality.

Front rubber can be attained aswell as rear from Philippines off shuggy, forget who was actually doing them (someone off another forum??), pm him?

Oh news, is head is done and its now getting into the final stages of parts sourcing. Really whats left is drivetrain parts and the intake/exhaust stuff. Going to throw an offer on a R154 trans with all the necessary parts to bolt on and see what i get.

These are the specs from the engine build, I'll try to get some pics up soon of the motor and stuff for those that are curious.
Bottom End
Wiseco 85.5mm 8:8:1 Stroker Pistons
Manley H Beam Stroker Rods
Eagle 100mm Stroker Crankshalft
Boss Innovations Main Girdle

Bearings and hardware
ACL Race Rod Bearings, STD size
ACL Race Main Bearings, STD size
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
MLS Head Gasket

Head
Manley Single Springs and Titanium Retainer set #26125
Delta Cams 272/272 Camshafts

Fuel Stuff
Braided lines
HH GVR4 Fuel Tank
Walboro 255lph Fuel pump
RC 750cc Injectors

Left to do/buy
Balance Shaft Elimination
Drivetrain
Jay racing front water outlet kit
New Oil Pump
Timing kit
IAT sensor
Put together my Megasquirt harness
Figure out Intercooler setup
Evo 8/9 turbo setup
JMF Intake Manifold
Fuel Lines

So I just realized my headlights are bigger than your AUS counterpart , was doing a mock up of the GC Coupe Grill on the Wagon while I had the that one off.
Glad I came across this problem now, before I tried to install on the Coupe.






So what size are your headlamps?

5 3/4" iirc

Thanks! Measured one of the lights...7"

Here's a mockup on the wagon...yep another project to come lol.