High Compression 2.6L Astron.

[Superscan811]

Started on my High compression 2.6L Astron (around 12.8:1).


1. Skim, bore and hone a Wide Block 2.6L Astron DONE
2. Wiseco Forged Celica pistons, 92mm with 3mm higher Compression height and 24.7cc dome. DONE
3. A 2.5mm decompression plate. No Longer Required. Using the Turbo Diesel crank with a 95mm stroke.
4. 2 x 0.5mm copper gaskets. No Longer Required
5. 2mm Over Size Titanium inlet and exhaust valves with 7mm (8mm is standard) valve stems. DONE
6. Nickel Teflon coated brass inlet valve guides. Nickel Boron coated Brass Exhaust valve guides. GUIDES ARE WAITING TO BE PLATED
7. Waggot Cam. TO BE DONE
8. Double Valve springs. No Longer Required. Using the BeeHive valve springs.
9. Nickel Teflon coat the "rocker rods". TO BE DONE
10. Hone the rockers. TO BE DONE
11. Drill the rockers for oiling the "swivel foot" tappets.No Longer Required. Going to modify the slipper/hydraulic rockers.
12. Correctly position the rockers so the tappets align with the top of the valve stem. TO BE DONE
13. Race prep the rods. TO BE DONE
14. ARP head studs. DONE
15. ARP main studs. DONE
16. Oil squirters for the piston . HAVE THE SQUIRTERS BUT WAITING ON THE BLOCK TO BE RETURNED
17. Prep TR Magna oil pump. No longer required. Using the forklift oil pump.
18. Baffle the sump. TO BE DONE
19. Port the head. . DONE
20. Beryllium Copper Exhaust valve seats. HAVE THE VALVE SEATS BUT TO BE DONE.

Lots more to do as well but at least I've started..

Just have to figure out which car I'll put the engine into.

Cheers.

[GLANT]

Awesome motor build!! maybe? remove spring that retain rockers in posi on shaft...replace with an accurate length tube... it reduces mechanical load = more power!! apparently??

[Superscan811]

Awesome motor build!!

Thanks.
It's taken a while to get all the pieces along with the enthusiasm to start this engine build.

remove spring that retain rockers in posi on shaft...replace with an accurate length tube...

I had something similar in mind.

An interference fit, flanged sleeve going through the rocker as the wearing surface, rather than the aluminium, and a double thrust plate on either side, along with your idea of the tube.

Also, I'll be using the oil accumulator/pre-oiler to float the bearings prior to starting the engine and the oil accumulator will only stop after the engine has stopped spinning for 5 seconds. The accumulator has been sitting in my cupboard for over a year now, Guess it I should use it..

The FRANTZ bypass oil filter will also be used, it filters the oil down to 0.5-micron, along with a 35-micron full flow stainless steel filter. A standard paper filter is around 60-microns.

Some pics

Oil Accumulator


Copper- Berylium valve seats.


StainSteel Oil Filter


Piston Oil Squirters.


The Forged Celica pistons.



Cheers.

[astronturbo77]

my dad, once built a hicomp sigma 2.6 engine (he is a fitter and turner) was a 2.6 block bored out to fit 305 chev pistons with a m9 head..

[Xaser]

Where put the Piston Oil Squirters??

and where buy this oil filter? is washable right?

becouse have troubles to find it a regular filter what fit in my car

[Superscan811]

my dad, once built a hicomp sigma 2.6 engine (he is a fitter and turner) was a 2.6 block bored out to fit 305 chev pistons with a m9 head..

Do you know what compression he was running?

Where put the Piston Oil Squirters??

There is a high pressure oil galley on the exhaust side of the block so I'll be machining a flat section and then drill into it, drilling and tapping the bolt holes either side of that oil galley.
The engine will need to be back together so they can be placed where they won't be hit by the pistons,rods or crank.

where buy this oil filter? is washable right?

The oil filters you can buy from PurePower and yes, they are cleanable/re-usable.

Cheers.

[Xaser]

Superscan811 Thnsk!

[Superscan811]

Superscan811 Thnsk!

Glad to help.





Started to prep the rods today.

The rod started out at 831.4g
Started like this..



After machining 2.5mm around the bigend the rod weighed 822.1g.
There is still the full thrust surface on the side of the rod (around 4mm)



After a bit of grinding/sanding the rod is now 804.2g



As yet, I haven't touched the weight pads or properly rounded the gudgeon pin end
SO
I figure I can lose at least another 30g after balancing and polishing.


Cheers.

[Xaser]

Nice Rod Work!


A few month ago I talk with a Forged Rod Company, he makes me a New rod for NA Version ( the turbo is heavy also) with almost 300gr per Rod.. the final price, around 1000 U$D

Is For 4G52 NA version, but STD rod Weight like yours

cheers

[Superscan811]

he makes me a New rod for NA Version ( the turbo is heavy also) with almost 300gr per Rod

That is an extremely light rod.



Started on the crank.

Decided to "knife edge" and lighten it a bit.
I'm just putting a 45-Deg chamfer either side of the counterweights and the trailing edge, rounding the leading edge of the counterweights, removing some metal around the outside of the bigends, then a blend and polish.



Still needs a lot of work, but again, it's a start.

Cheers.

[GLANT]

top work! This will give people an idea of what a "worked" motor actually is!!!

[Superscan811]

top work! This will give people an idea of what a "worked" motor actually is!!!

Thanks, although I'd only call it a "mildly" worked engine.
I was originally told to use an angle grinder to knife edge the crank but I thought the mill would be a bit more accurate and leave a better finish for polishing.

Hope to have some more pics later this week.

Cheers.

[GLANT]

some people think a painted rocker cover, cam and extractors is a worked motor!! lmao!
yeah! grinder would be a bit rough id reckon..

[Xaser]

What a nice work
Keep updated!!

[leoca]

i have a baffled TR magna sump I could sell you...

[Superscan811]

some people think a painted rocker cover, cam and extractors is a worked motor!

Too true.
While I don't want to go WILD with this build, a bit more than mild is what I'm trying to achieve. Hoping for similar power Cheater is currently getting (120kw at the wheels, and possibly a little bit more )

What a nice work

I'm just a backyard hack with a few good contacts.
I do the research but then ask if it's the right thing to do.
There is a lot of misleading info on the web and sifting the good info out of all the crud is sometimes quite difficult.
The main reason I'm posting this is because I hope someone on S-G will warn me if I'm doing something wrong or if there is a better way of doing it.
Even stupid ideas sometimes have merit when applied differently.

i have a baffled TR magna sump I could sell you...

Thanks for the offer but I'll be making one up out of aluminium.
Also I'm using a wide block so the TR sump would need a bit of modifying before it would fit.

A trap door baffle sump is what I'll be making along with a bit more capacity.
Should be interesting.

Cheers.

[Superscan811]

Had a bit of a problem the other day, the mill stopped working half way through a heavy cut, so I decided to see if I could fix the problem (it would blow the fuse every time I turned it on).
The problem....

The vibrations must have shook the bolt loose and it fell across the contacts and shorted it out.
Easy fix.


Now, back to the crank.
When I started, the crank weighed 18.4kg and now it weighs 17.2kg


All the lumps are now about even, I can't believe some of the counterweights were over 18mm longer than the others.



Thinned down the width of the web between the mains and big ends just to even them up. Took a total of around 6mm a side.



Thinned down the top web of the big -ends and evened them up, again there was up to 4mm difference in thickness.


Tomorrow the crank will be sent off to be linished or re-ground.
Haven't decided whether to have it polished or not but it will need balancing after all this work.

Cheers.

[Superscan811]

Just received a new bit of kit today.


A MegaSquirt 3 - v3.

The latest version has a USB port built in and the MS3-Xpander board allows you to control a lot more things.
Sequential injection, Coil on Plug, along with several other I/O's.

Decided this engine will be EFI, using my Quad throttle bodies.

The extra injector ports will be used for water injection.

Cheers.

[Billsy]

Nice one

good to see someone else give the MS a go

[Cottees]

Nice one

good to see someone else give the MS a go

I want to use a MS 3, so it'll be good to see how yours turns out.

[Superscan811]

Just received some more bits.


2 sets of:
Rod bolts
Main Studs
Head Studs.



Cheers.

[A57C]

lov'n this thread. would do the same if i was a machinest. cant justify the cost of paying somebody else tho, so stock "unworked" 2.6 for me ...

[Xaser]

Do you have photos of Head and valve?

I in NA Too, but 4G52, with +1 Piston and Twin 40's

I have a lot of trouble with port a head, i calculated the ideal are 2mm more smaller, but, in teory are perfect... i will see in a few days in the dyno..



This is a cam puley ( Custom)



I hope dont matters this photos

thnks!

[Superscan811]

lov'n this thread. would do the same if i was a machinest.

Thanks for the complement but I'm not a machinist, just a computer jockey with delusions of adequacy when it comes to machining.

cant justify the cost of paying somebody else tho...

The way I look at it, it would cost me the same to buy the equipment and do the work myself as it would cost to pay someone else to do it.
This way I end up with a bit more mechanical knowledge (and hopefully still all my appendages), along with a few pieces of machinery.
It will take a bit longer but learning new skills is worth it.

Do you have photos of Head and valve?

I will post some up in a few days.
I've started to port one head but I think I'll use it for the turbo engine.

Once again I've changed my mind on the valves for the N/A engine. They will still be 2mm over-size but I have a set of titanium valves with 6mm stems for the inlets but still use the 7mm stems for the exhaust.

Standard valve stems are 8mm.
The 7mm represent a 23.5% reduction, and the 6mm is a massive 43.8% reduction in valve stem area compared to the 8mm valve stem.
This should help the air flow into and out of the head, causing less restriction and turbulence.
They will also be considerably lighter (exhausts valves will be half the standard weight and the inlets will weigh approx 35-40% of the standard inlet valves).
Because of the reduced weight, I should also be able to run lighter than standard valve springs.

This will also help the engine as it will require less energy to move the valves and compress the springs.
The negative is the longevity, most likely it will only last 12 months before they will have to be checked for fatigue.

A price I'm willing to pay.

Cheers.

[brendon]

are you grouting the block?
or doing any other 'treatments' to it for strength and longevity

[Xaser]

Do you have photos of Head and valve?

I will post some up in a few days.
I've started to port one head but I think I'll use it for the turbo engine.

Once again I've changed my mind on the valves for the N/A engine. They will still be 2mm over-size but I have a set of titanium valves with 6mm stems for the inlets but still use the 7mm stems for the exhaust.

Standard valve stems are 8mm.
The 7mm represent a 23.5% reduction, and the 6mm is a massive 43.8% reduction in valve stem area compared to the 8mm valve stem.
This should help the air flow into and out of the head, causing less restriction and turbulence.
They will also be considerably lighter (exhausts valves will be half the standard weight and the inlets will weigh approx 35-40% of the standard inlet valves).
Because of the reduced weight, I should also be able to run lighter than standard valve springs.

This will also help the engine as it will require less energy to move the valves and compress the springs.
The negative is the longevity, most likely it will only last 12 months before they will have to be checked for fatigue.

A price I'm willing to pay.

Cheers.

Yeap you gain for less Alternative Weight, but remember.. more area, less Air Speed.. = Minus Cilinder Fill ( sorry for bad english)

I have STD valves.. a great CFM but, on a lower rpm , the engine with big conducts ( ports ?) have a slow air induction... this have a slower engine, and a poor low rpm power.

Yeah obviouslly have a great power to high rpm, but this engine i dont see revving over 9K

[Superscan811]

are you grouting the block?
or doing any other 'treatments' to it for strength and longevity

No.
I don't believe it is necessary with the amount of power I'll be putting out with the N/A engine.
From what I understand, grouting is to strengthen the internal webbing, especially if you have bored the block over the recommended amount.

Yeap you gain for less Alternative Weight, but remember.. more area, less Air Speed.. = Minus Cilinder Fill

True, but with the smaller valve stems, the air has a smaller obstacle in its path so it can keep more of the speed it has gained in the ports.

Looking into an idea I had a while ago about varying the cam timing with the rpm. Very basic setup, nothing like the new cars have, but it should help, especially below 2500rpm.

...( sorry for bad english)

Not a problem. Appreciate the feedback.

Cheers.

[brendon]

No.
I don't believe it is necessary with the amount of power I'll be putting out with the N/A engine.
From what I understand, grouting is to strengthen the internal webbing, especially if you have bored the block over the recommended amount.

ok no worries .
I'm looking at doing it to my NA 4g54 similar mods to yours but more mild (10.8:1cr).

I cracked my block at the oil filter thread,
one explanation was because the 4g54 has such a long stroke, at high revs, the block can turn to jelly.
when I re-block mine, I'll be grouting and adding a girdle, (even if just for added strength)

Good luck with the build & Keep us posted,
I'd be interested to see if you run into similar problems, or if I've been unlucky (the block was sonic tested for the original build)

[GLANT]

.

I cracked my block at the oil filter thread,
one explanation was because the 4g54 has such a long stroke, at high revs, the block can turn to jelly.
when I re-block mine, I'll be grouting and adding a girdle, (even if just for added strength)

I too have cracked recoed 4g54 blocks.....after having blocks tested too.

I don't believe it is necessary with the amount of power I'll be putting out with the N/A engine.
From what I understand, grouting is to strengthen the internal webbing, especially if you have bored the block over the recommended amount.

power??? torque increase with the extra compression, is whats going to matter, I think!........ girdle it at least!!

the blocks do fail!!!!!!! they are average in design.. I personally believe the 4g5XX blocks are the weakest component..How do i know?? experience and working at a sigma wreckers 15 years ago.... I saw cracked blocks quite often.

I was going to 4g54 my GA Galant (i already fitted a 4g52...cause i had it there). But after I think 6 blocks with cracks, and having one actually tested and recoed, to find a crack between two head bolt holes after!! I gave up on astrons..4g63 is so much stronger a motor and my choice..
]

[GLANT]

Tomorrow the crank will be sent off to be linished or re-ground.
Haven't decided whether to have it polished or not but it will need balancing after all this work.

Did it balance up ok?? that was alot of metal removed??
Hey, did you weigh it before / after??