My GC Hardtop project

geezer101 · Post by **geezer101** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:17 pm

Ditto with Hotwire. Aero sports look more at home on a euro hatch. I think the lace rims have more street cred on an old school.

Post by **75wagon** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:44 pm

Well, I agree on the comments on superlites (or any other rim of same style).

As for the wheels you're looking at, the meshies are a safe bet (we all know they are going to look nice a predictable on it) but the aero rims? I haven't got a clue what they would look like on a Galant? I'm not a fan of the writing on them, but I suppose that goes with the look? I also suppose they wouldn't be worth as much with the writing removed?

What size and offsets are they?

Dave...

webby · Post by **webby** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 3:12 pm

Why not buy both?

I'm a fan of the Southern Ways, mesh is overdone.

Post by **A112H** » Mon Sep 05, 2011 3:46 pm

I am thinking that meshies have been way over done, every shitbox KE70 Corolla is sporting a set near me. Having said that, they are an awesome looking wheel.
I think the Southern Ways will look pretty cool, probably a bit Euro and certainly 80's but not something you see everyday.
The SSR's are 16x7 +15 and 16x7.5 +9 so will fill out the hardtop nicely
The Southern Ways are 15x7 +5 all 4 so should also fill the gaurds.

In the end I might just run semi's on the steelies all the time

Post by **A112H** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 5:05 pm

My seats on the their way

In Transit [Sea / Container B]
Explanation: Your item has been packed into Import Monster container "B" which is now in transit. On average, containers take approx. 5-6 weeks to arrive in Australia & clear customs / quarantine. Any delays will be communicated via email. Otherwise, the next update you receive will be when the order has arrived to our Aussie warehouse in approx 5-6 weeks from the date of this update! Mark it in your diary!

Post by **A112H** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 8:42 pm

So got bored waiting for my seats and had nothing on tonight so I....

Ran a new fuel line from the cell to the carbies and fitted new super cool braided fuel hose

I forgot to get pics underneath, it won't be on it's wheels for long though

Used the same hose for the brake booster

I think this is what they call a bee's dick, lol

Nah should be fine

Fancy nolothane swaybar bushes

Thats about it for this weekend, I am flat out tomorrow and the boy is racing on Sunday.
Have a good weekend all

Post by **84GKSIG** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:18 pm

how much pressure was that fuel line rated to again?

Post by **A112H** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:51 pm

LOL, the hose is temp only; I have spent this afternoon in a sea of speed flow fittings. I will fit it up correctly once I have the two way fitting for the first carby.
I just about have the fuel cell "hosed" up with speed flow and braid. Scored a sweet fuel pump from a mate I was helping out today along with a bag of fittings so will get stuck in to the fuel system over the next week.
Once that it done I need to run the battery cables to the boot. Once that is sorted I need some MDF to do my new boot floor so I can mount it all permanently in place.
I will get some pics in the morning; scrutineering isn't until 11:30 so I can mess around a bit in the morning

Post by **A112H** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:19 pm

Is this what I need to run from boot to engine bay?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-Lead ... 336a14adad

It seems too cheap to be correct

amgis_obrut · Post by **amgis_obrut** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 10:20 pm

I always use 0ga wire when the batts in the boot

Post by **A112H** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:51 am

Hey Mick, what is this Oga wire of which you speak?
eBay or Google didn't have the answers.

geezer101 · Post by **geezer101** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:55 am

He means 0 'zero' gauge wire...

Post by **A112H** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:23 am

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20-Feet-samu ... 20b0d3cd9b ??

geezer101 · Post by **geezer101** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 2:44 pm

Try JAYCAR jason, or alternately autobarn if you feel like paying more...

Post by **A112H** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 4:10 pm

Okay, so I get to the boat club this morning and Brandon is the only one there in his class, it is cold, raining and windy as hell. We were home 20 minutes later

This did give me a chance to work on the fuel system and make it a bit more pressure friendly

So this is the new line, I just unpicked the old return line and used the original clips to fix the new one in place

Starting from the rear I used the hardline fittings to convert it to hose.

In the boot using the factory fuel hole

This is how it will look once the new floor is fitted. I scored this cool little inline pump. It is much quieter than a facet and runs between 2.5 and 4psi, perfect for side draughts

Then up the front I again used the hardline to hose fittings

Once I get the correct fitting for the first carby I will run the hose for that too.

Cheers for the tip geezer. Am I correct in thinking that if I earth the engine to the body and then earth the battery to the body should be all good yeah?

Got more done than I expected this weekend but still a lot to do. I think the momentum will pick up a lot over the next few weeks.

geezer101 · Post by **geezer101** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 6:20 pm

Yep, that's the way. Make sure the positive wire is secured well and you use grommets wherever the heavy gauge wire passes through metal- if the insulation is breached anywhere the damage could be catastrophic. Install a circuit breaker or a fuse block straight off the battery as a safeguard. If you're using a sealed battery you shouldn't need to have a ventilated battery case.

woops · Post by **woops** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 6:48 pm

I actually found the cheapest place to get the right gauge of wire for the battery was from a specialised battery shop. I think it was about 30 to 40 dollars including fittings for the earth and positive cable. I also put in 2 earth cables to the chassis to two different places just to be sure.

Also I think jaycar car had some solid-state relays with circuit breaker that would suitable for the battery. Keep in mind that the starter motor pulls a huge current, somewhere in the hundreds of amps if I recall correctly.

Post by **81GL** » Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:19 pm

Looking good Jason.

I doubt you will get a reliable method of current limiting the battery for the starter... I mean at 12V its a bit difficult to distinguish 100amp to 300amp. Better off making sure the situation can't arise in the first place. If you paranoid about going through a hole in the chassis that it might cut it, use a grommet like this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Na_LV8MbvUw/S ... 0657-1.JPG
Available from any electrical wholesaler, and they do come in some pretty large sizes. They have a rubber sleeve inside, and once that nut is done up, the cable is held pretty well!

& just to be picky

Wheres the one way valve on the brake booster? & the rubber washer for the soft mounts

Oh what letter is at the end of the dellorto model number, bit rare to see the idle mix screw above the body rather than recessed? good though, stops them binding the thread if muck gets in there.
Got the same bee's wang of gap too... It's a prick taking the filters off....

geezer101 · Post by **geezer101** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 12:35 pm

81GL wrote: Wheres the one way valve on the brake booster? & the rubber washer for the soft mounts

I noticed that too- did we forget something?

Post by **A112H** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:09 pm

Nah not forgotten, it all is coming out again for final paint of the engine and box.

I think I will be inversting in a grommet like that, cheers for the link. I have seen them before used on control panels for gensets and dyno's

There are no numbers on the carbs, the only print is as follows

On top

On the leading edge or front side

Trailing edge or rear side

Thats it

Post by **81GL** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:18 pm

48mm carbs

nice.....

& with no letter after them, would denote them to be a performance carb, aggressive progression curve

(can be confirmed by removing the blanking screw)

Post by **A112H** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 5:52 pm

Okay, so I have been on a mad eBay buying spree and am expecting lots of presents next week

Oil filter sandwich plate to suit Astron for oil cooler

Extractors to be reworked to suit Galant

Custom alloy radiator - fingers crossed it fits

Fuel inlet fitting for carbs

Red carpet to line the boot with

JDM number plates for shows and stuff, my hardtop was built June 1975, so 1/6/75

Plus almost $200 worth of more speedflow fittings to finish off the fuel system

orangelancer · Post by **orangelancer** » Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:23 pm

hey jase. dont worry you can always make the radiator fit ;p

Post by **GC75** » Sat Sep 17, 2011 3:24 pm

amgis_obrut · Post by **amgis_obrut** » Sat Sep 17, 2011 7:28 pm

A112H wrote:Okay, so I have been on a mad eBay buying spree and am expecting lots of presents next week

Oil filter sandwich plate to suit Astron for oil cooler

dont use that thing
get one with a thermostat

Jase just use 0 gauge from jaycar and run it through a grommet, it will never rub through

Post by **A112H** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:39 pm

Got my radiator, boot carpet and dual fuel line adaptor thingo today

I like coming home to presents. The rad fits perfectly

Post by **84GKSIG** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 6:58 pm

pics pics pics!

kenvv · Post by **kenvv** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:18 pm

coming along nicely! i envy the joy your first drive will bring you.....wish my engine bay was as clean as yours is going to be

Post by **A112H** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:09 pm

Rad and overflow bottle fit up, you can also see I now have both hoses on the carbs just need the speedflow finishing covers to turn up tomorrow.

Post by **A112H** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:12 pm

For those that might be interested in the rad, this is it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260767373395

It comes with the cap and the mounts on the side but with no holes, it is a perfect fit for the GC/D Galants.

Sigma-galant.com

My GC Hardtop project

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