Phils GA Galant

[DanTurboLancer]

Just hang onto it man, as you said you will never find spares,
So even if you have to remove all the parts and store them somewhere...

[72GalantGirl]

She looks great Phil!! I can't wait to have mine finished but she will be a while!! Top props go to you for keeping another alive!

[gaPhil]

Been a while since I've made a post on here. Progress has been happening at a slow but steady pace.

Pulled the belt drive motor out of the orange one over easter

with my new purchase

Couldnt believe how much mud and grease was on it


I'm using the orange one to get my spare motor running before putting it in, as it has been sitting around for some years. Its running now and looking like it will be a good motor.

I finally got a lancer hatch steering wheel, looks good and much nicer then the stock one.


I have a new daily coming soon so the work will continue.
I have an idea for a paint scheme to finish/fix my paint, will upload a photoshop a bit later.

[DanTurboLancer]

Good stuff Phil, looking good mate!

[ISKA8]

she is indeed looking good..quick question: do all galants come with that pattern ontop of the heater adjusters inside the cabin??those 3 shooting star type things??
i f@#kn love that!

[72GalantGirl]

I have them in my ga but not in the gd wagon.. ;)

[75wagon]

she is indeed looking good..quick question: do all galants come with that pattern ontop of the heater adjusters inside the cabin??those 3 shooting star type things??
i f@#kn love that!

GA/B's do, but GC/D's don't.

Dave...

[gaPhil]

So the progress is starting again!

Recently sold my spare GA. Had to finally give in and realise I don't have room for 3 cars. The galant is now off the road.

My plans are replace knackered 1300 with the 1600 I have. Goin to strip down the 1600 and check whats in it and maybe put a small amount of $ in to freshen it up. Bolt on the 45 weber.

Fix the rest of the paint - the roof boot and bonnet.

It will remain a 4 speed as the skills requiredto mod a GA to 5 speed are beyond me at this stage

Planning to have it back on the road mid next year, but not rushing as that is when I have made the costly mistakes in the past!

Most recent purchase (pretty stoked):



More to come in the coming weeks!

[75wagon]

It will remain a 4 speed as the skills requiredto mod a GA to 5 speed are beyond me at this stage

Phil, you know the Brotherhood are always there to help.

Fix the rest of the paint - the roof boot and bonnet.

If you need a hand, I can help. Just let me get the one that's in my shed out first...

That's a sexy looking Dash Phil, I can't wait to see one with my own eyes instead of looking a a pic.

Dave...

[gaPhil]

haha be careful what you wish for Dave!

Cheers.

[A112H]

That really is a sexy looking dash, I have always loved first gen Galants but have never been impressed with the dash.
Can't wait to see it moving along

[gaPhil]

Cheers Jason,

Yeah they are a way better dash, plus now idon't have to mess around with trying to get an aftermarket tacho to look ok in the car!

[dnvgalant]

progress is looking great Phil =)
quick question, what is that dash out of? And is it bolt in or some mods required?

[gaPhil]

It's out of a 'GS' model galant (we didn't get them in aust)

Straight bolt in, some fiddling with the wiring for the tacho.

[gaPhil]

Finally had some time to do some work yesterday. Pulled the motor out, starting to clean and prep the engine bay to re-paint it. Just going with the original blue colour. I'd been wanting to get the motor out for a long time.


motor is completey shagged i think, was losin alot of oil. It had so much blow-by it disintegrated the pod filter i had on the breather and sprayed red oily shit everywhere.


On a much angrier note, , i managed to smash a headlight. One of the legs off the engine crane fell down on it, LUCKILY i kept 2 spare from my orange galant. But still, i could relate to this guy:


Work will be slow but steady over the next six months (going to europe in june) so funds are very limited for the galant. Planning to at least get the engine bay finished, ready to put the 1600 in.

[75wagon]

Glad to see progress with this Phil. You've been quiet of late...

[davetrees]

It had so much blow-by it disintegrated the pod filter i had on the breather and sprayed red oily shit everywhere.

Just a tip Phil ..... those small filters are probably too restrictive to connect direct to the breather - too much pressure buildup. You would be better off running the breather to a catch tank, to give some expansion room.

I just used a 1L alloy drink bottle (about $2 from SuperCrap) plus a couple of garden irrigation fittings. It's mounted using a an old fire extinguisher bracket I had floating around. I also stuffed some steel scourers into the bottle, to act as baffling.


(excuse the dodgy phone pic)

[gaPhil]

Glad to see progress with this Phil. You've been quiet of late...

Yeah i have been flat out with work and busy on the weekends.

Just a tip Phil ..... those small filters are probably too restrictive to connect direct to the breather - too much pressure buildup. You would be better off running the breather to a catch tank, to give some expansion room.

That is a good tip, i thought you'd only need a catch can for turbo setups really. After seeing the crap come out of it i wouldnt hook it back up to the air filter again.

That setup looks pretty good, better then paying the $100 odd for a brand name one.

[davetrees]

No problem Phil.

I used to have mine hooked to the aircleaner (as per factory) but when I had it dynoed last year Simon Gardiner at Powerplay disconnected it & told me :
- you don't want crankcase fumes going into the carb (significant power loss, stuffs up mixture etc), and
- have as little backpressure on the breather as possible (minimises oil leaks etc).

Ideally have it open (which is legally dodgy ?), otherwise use a catch can with plenty of expansion space. (I suggested using a filter direct on the breather like yours, but he advised against it).

If you want some better pics of mine, let me know.

[A112H]

Cheers for the tips Dave, I currently have my ASStron set up with a pod on the outlet, same as gaPhil's was, I do have a catch can in the shed so this will now be my job for tomorrow

[gaPhil]

Started degreasing the engine bay today and was suprised (for the most part) how good the paint comes up. I dont think i will have to re-paint the whole engine bay.

There is some fairly extensive surface rust under the battery box though:



At first i thought the paint had faded above the battery, but it seems someone has had a go at re-painting with house paint, note the run on the right hand side -


So now im wondering whether its easier to pull the battery shelf out so i can properly clean up behind it. How easy is it to remove in one piece? I assume its just spot welded so i will need to drill those out?
My second thought is taking an angle grinder to the shelf and moving the battery to the boot. Is this an easy mod? Where do you run the cable for the battery, under or in the car?

[A112H]

I am not sure about the GA/B's but the GC/D's have pleanty of holes to run the cable through. But it would be harder to hide in a 4 door.
I have mine on the drivers side right behind the tail light. I run the cable through the hole behind the back seat, under the back seat on the passenger side. It then runs along the side panel and between the body and front seat belt (this would be harder to hide on a sedan), it then tucks in between the body and the passenger seat. The body cross member the seat bolts too has a series of holes in it perfect for nice big cables to run through I have then run it inside the kick panel to the fire wall. I had to drill a hole in the fire wall so made sure it was out of the way of passengers feet and not going to interfer with anything in the engine bay. Found a rubber bung that fit (it was from the boot floor of a GD) cut a hole in that so the cable fit tightly and fed it onto the starter motor.
I used 0g red cable due to the distance, nearly 2m all up.
For earthing I also used 0g black cable and ran one from the battery to the rear bumper bar mount and another one from the engine block to the strut tower.
So far I have done just over 1000k's and all has worked perfectly.

Can't get any more pics of it as it is all hidden under carpet and seats, lol




Just looking at these pics, I guess I should have cleaned inside the boot, lol

[gaPhil]

Cheers Jason, thats good info

How'd you go removing the shelf, cut it up with an angle grinder?

[A112H]

Yeah, just drilled out what I could get to and hit the rest with the grinder. Little bit of bog, slapped some paint on and it came up a treat.

[davetrees]

I reckon the best cable to use for relocating the battery is 10mm welding cable ... preferably the aluminium-cored stuff (nice & light & flexible, and designed for lots of current). I have never been comfortable with the idea of using cable designed for sound systems, no matter how fat it is !

Also, I would strongly recommend using a fully sealed battery. A non-sealed battery like Jason's setup there is a risk of hydrogen fumes building up in the boot .... which can go KABOOM !!

[77galantv6]

.... Also, I would strongly recommend using a fully sealed battery. A non-sealed battery like Jason's setup there is a risk of hydrogen fumes building up in the boot .... which can go KABOOM !!

Not that bad really, as the C-pillar trim acts as a "breather hole" for any gases to escape if any occur,
I have the exact same set up in my car.

[75wagon]

So now im wondering whether its easier to pull the battery shelf out so i can properly clean up behind it. How easy is it to remove in one piece? I assume its just spot welded so i will need to drill those out?

You'd just drill the spot welds out to do that. Not that much of a difficult job, unless some of the spot welds are difficult to get to.

My second thought is taking an angle grinder to the shelf and moving the battery to the boot. Is this an easy mod? Where do you run the cable for the battery, under or in the car?

I wouldn't call it difficult, but time consuming to gain very little.
If it was for a show car then yes.
If it was for clearance reasons (eq: 77galantv6's car) then yes.
A lot of guys who race their cars move it to the back for various reasons, weight distribution, fire prevention minimisation (in case of a front type accident) and a few others I'm sure the members here will remind me of, but escape me atm.
But just for the sake of it, on a street driven, non show car, I wouldn't bother.

Just as a matter of interest, under the new registry laws, wouldn't this one require an engineers cert?

Degrease and high pressure water blast, you'd be surprised how well you can clean around it like that. I can get hold of a high pressure water blaster if you need.

[davetrees]

The main reason for moving the battery to the boot (IMHO) is it gives you a heap more under-bonnet space ! No other reason to do it in a road car ....

[gaPhil]

The work has continued at its slow and steady pace. Not much coin to put into it, until i get back from holidays in july.
Continued cleaning the engine bay today, decided to take the gearbox out and degrease it also. Always nice to see some nice metal under 40 years of mud and grease.


Noticed there is some silicone/gasket around some of the holes. Not sure why this is, if it has been re-built at some stage or was just leaking. It never leaked since i have had it.

[75wagon]

Noticed there is some silicone/gasket around some of the holes. Not sure why this is, if it has been re-built at some stage or was just leaking.

They come like that from the factory.

If you are interested, I now have a high pressure water blaster so you can clean that gearbox up even better?