Sirius 4G62B 1.8T into GK GSR - it begins

[A112H]

Coming along very nicely indeed, a few hiccups but thats the fun in it, lol. Good luck with the wiring.

[Shifta]

First crack at the wiring and I'm a bit unsure. I went through what I had and managed to simplify it down to this:



All the black wiring on the left is ok as that's the injectors and the other stuff that plugs into various places on the manifold and rail. Bottom left Is the Distributor wires and coil stuff which I just moved over from the old coil to the one that was in the GK. What I'm not sure of is the below:



In terms of exposed wires, there is only 3 that stand out - one that has FP written on it ( surprisingly not in my hand writing ), a big fat red one, and one that is labelled Earth. The big ugly silver thing is obviously the GE sigma Ignition module and the black relays are labelled Fuel Pump Relay and Ignition Relay. Now electrics are far from my strong point so I was trying to look at it logically. The existing car wiring takes care of the Starter and Alternator functions so they are all good. So once I somehow plug the above wiring in the fuel and spark are sorted. It almost seems too simple but I'm wondering whether if I connect the fat red wire to the ignition key on the car somehow, earth the one labelled earth, will the car then start? The FP wire I'm thinking will provide power to the petrol pump so that will solve my problem of where I was going to wire the VL pump to. I'm assuming the car has it's own Ignition Module so possibly have to locate that and bypass the power to my wiring loom. Bit more investigation needed tomorrow and will take on board any advice anyone can offer!

So even with my doubts I wanted to make some progress so I connected up as much as I could. To get the computer into the car there was only one possible spot in the firewall to push the Haltech plugs through and there was an aircon unit in the way. Thanks to Mike from the forums for his workshop manual, and out came the glovebox and aircon unit. Now I have a massive gap up under the dash where it seems like a non aircon car would have some sort of connecting duct - can anyone confirm? Anyway, here is the latest project pic:



The Haltech is in the car and plugged in, just not mounted yet. I'm leaving the glovebox out until I've installed my oil, water, and boost guages as the extra visibility is great. The other end of those wires are all plugged in and the coil and dizzy are ok as far as I know. Just need to figure out the ignition side of things. Small glitch with the Injectors though. I connected the injector plugs in their obvious places but the bloody things are labelled 2,3,4, and 8! Numbers 2 and 8 are next to each other so I'm thinking 8 is supposed to be 1. Hopefully that's right!

[woops]

Yeah there is a massive duct which just goes in place of the aircon and it's about the same size as the holes there. Shouldn't be too hard to get one from the wreckers.

I had my wiring in the same place before but i've now actually put it through the side rail. There is a rubber plug where you can feed it through the rail but i had to get a semi stiff wire initially through and used that to pull the wiring loom through. It's exactly the same as the how the standard engine bay wiring loom enters inside except just on the passengers side. I plan of reinstalling my air-con back in sometime so i preferred to do it that way. The only thing is that the rubber plug it right up the top behind the dash. You might be able to get to it by just removing the fan unit or the vent ducting above the fan but i can't remember now.

Also i don't know if you'd want to do this too but you could install the computer on the back of the glovebox and use some double sided tape and secure it properly with zip ties. It keeps it hidden away from prying eyes and well out of the way. It also saves having additional screws there. Or you could just screw it to the side of the centre console unit beside the stereo hole.

[Shifta]

Cool mate, some interesting info there. I was thinking of mounting the Haltech against the firewall and have it hidden by the duct when I get one from the wreckers but I wasn't sure if there would be enough clearance as I don't know what the duct looks like. The aircon won't be going back in so no worries there . My first thoughts were the kick panel but it's not quite wide enough. I'll definitely look into the back of the glove box idea and also the wiring loom move possibility. The glove box is pretty hammered so will look at getting another one of them when I look for a duct. I don't think I have enough length with the loom in the bay though so it may have to stay where it is ie. just behind the fuel rail. Will check it out tonight.

The more I think about the wiring, the more I reckon maybe it is fairly simple. I'm gonna read through the GK manual tonight and see if I can work out the existing Ignition module setup. I'm thinking if through that big red wire, once I get power to the whole loom in my photos, it should all function correctly. The key might be just working out where to plumb the red wire into ie, bypass the standard GK ignition module and send power to the new set up. Be nice if I can ditch the ugly GE module but will see what happens I guess.....

[Shifta]

Oh and another thing I'm not sure of. The wiring out of the GE ran a coil that was plugged into an External Resistor. I'm thinkin this was because the GE sigmas needed them and wasn't to do with the EFI conversion. The GK Bosch Super Coil doesn't appear to have a an external resistor so I'm thinkin GK sigmas don't need one. So I'm wondering whether I can connect the coil wires straight to the GK's coil without using the resistor and it will be correct. Anyone know?

[Shifta]

Hit a small hurdle with the Haltech wiring ( I have no idea what I'm doing! ) so a mate is going to help me next week. Another mate said he'll hook me up with the Intercooler plumbing as long as I mount the cooler so I set about doing that last night. I dummy fitted it, then pulled it off to clean it up and around the front of the car where mods were needed. Will bolt it up over the weekend and then put the front of the car back together. The wiring/cooler pipes and exhaust completion are pretty much the final steps holding me up so I've been doing a few of the little things in the meantime. Made up a custom plate to mount oil and water temp guages, plumbed the feeds for both into the engine bay, mounted the boost gauge and connected it in the bay. I just need to wire up all 3 gauges to the headlights somewhere. Over the years I've had a couple of different adjustable boost setups, the last being a high/low setup which used a solenoid of some description. I can't seem to find it but I stumbled upon an old bleed setup I used many years ago and although a bit basic, I remember it worked well. Had an idea late last night and made a few mods - installed the manual bleed controller neatly hidden in the console and ran the hose feeds up and into the engine bay - pretty happy with the result. Liasing with GB_BB4C regarding a Surge tank as well so the project is not far off completion. A few pics before packing it in last night:

Dummy fitting the cooler:


Gauges came out ok although I was hoping for a better spot for the boost guage ( wiring in the photo is for the gauge lights and front dash speakers still working on):


Adjustable boost in the console:

[colta51]

nice i like yore idear wiv the carbord over the intercoler to stop damage..

[Astron Boy]

Good spot for the bleed valve, I like it!

[colta51]

Good spot for the bleed valve, I like it!

it just needs a false bottem to hide it and then u can put stuff in there wivout nocking it...!

[genius]

The starion 4g63 engines are all wide block. The cordia engines 4g62 and 4g63 DASH engines are definitely all narrow block but a 2L sigma gearbox will bolt up all the same. Thats why the cordia's can have the 4g63 DOHC engines just bolt straight in. All the FWD or AWD 4g6* engines are narrow bolt up such as the early FWD NA and AWD vr4 galants and early sonata 2L DOHC and 2.4L SOHC. I'm 90% sure that all the 4g6* RWD engines are wide block such as the starion, L200 utes and the L300 vans. Not positive if the auto/narrow and manual/wide policy applies for the l200 and l300 such as they do in the sigma 4g54. i Wouldn't think there would be many autos though in those vehicles.

You are correct as far as i can remember with your gearbox 'wide' and 'narrow' selections.
And bloody good job to stay with it and persevere with it all. Kudos big time!

[genius]

BTW... The fat red wire im sure is battery terminal positive. And if your ecu is not sequential it wont matter what sequence you plug the injector wires in!

[Shifta]

Thanks mate, yeah I sanity checked my logic the yesterday and realised the loom would need permanent power ie. in the form of a big fat red wire . A mate is coming round tomorrow to hopefully suss it. Got a heap done over the weekend but found a bunch of small issues:
- The Standard GK radiator hoses don't match the motor
- The standard GK Accelerator cable is slightly longer so the mounting bracket doesn't quite work
- The Intercooler meant the vertical mounting bracket didn't fit
- With the thermo on and the normal fan not required, will need to rig up some washers or something as the pulley doesn't bolt up tight.

Worked out how we are going to do the intercooler pipes so need to hit up Ebay for some hoses and stuff.

Here's some more pics.

Painted and mounted intercooler:


Front all back on:


Installed a thermo - just need to wire it up:


Modified mounting bracket:


Standard GK top hose on the left, the one needed for the Sirius motor on the right:


Standard GK lower hose on the left, Sirius one on the car. I should have taken the pic before putting the hose on as you can't really tell from this shot, but the Sirius hose is way different as it needs to clear the alternator:

[Shifta]

Update - she starts! Got the computer wired up on Monday but had wires everywhere. I've spent the past 2 nights trying to clean it up and solder, tape, and move it all around - so many wires . Having trouble with a surge tank setup so have just rigged up the VL pump temporarily for now. Booked in to get the exhaust done on Saturday so I'm working on a deadline now! I'll probably just drive it there without intercooler plumbing as that won't be done by then. Will post up more pics once the intercooler plumbing is done

[Astron Boy]

Nice work.
Car look very clean too!

[Shifta]

Count down to boost is on - getting intercooler plumbing this arvo so will be boosting tonight! Will post us some completed shots of the bay tonight or tomorrow

[A112H]

Well done mate, fairly painless process over all. Good luck tonight, just remember it is a long weekend so watch out for the Policía Federal.

[colta51]

wow this went fairly smooth cant wait to see it all finisht

[TUFSIG]

nice work your intercooler sits in there alot better then mine lol i think i have to go smaller the 450x230

[Shifta]

Ok jinxed myself! Spun the turbo, made up the intercooler plumbing ( would have been so much easier if the outlets for the cooler were on the other side! ) and went for a test drive. Bit slow - check boost guage - only 6psi. Wind up boost, give it a squirt - feels better - 10psi. Then no boost - crap, the C clip holding the wastegate actuator in place has gone Awol. Temperary solution - Should have boost. Something's not right - not much happening. Then car stalls - no go. Quick check of basics - no fuel. Facet thumpin away, VL pump no go. Fuel pump has died! Massive job to install fuel system the other week has backfired - it's so stealth and hidden under car it will be a mission to replace! I'll have to drop the main tank and disconnect everything to replace the pump! Flat tow to mates place. RAA Tow truck home. Back in the shed and waiting for more attention. Maybe boosting next weekend .

Silver lining - old mate comes out from his house we broke down out the front of, sees the GSR and asked if I wanted some Pepperpots that his son had in the shed. A quick bit of bargaining and 4 PP's got a free ride home on the tow truck too

[A112H]

Bummer on the car, bargain on the PP's

[Shifta]

Back on the road again and here is an updated pic of the bay:



A few small issues popped up on my drive today so hopefully can do some fine tuning next weekend( adjustable boost isn't working so only runs 6psi, it's idling like a bitch and I have a vaccum leak somewhere). I spent all morning pulling the fuel sytem out and replaced the pump that died - all seems ok now. Love the feel of an injected sigma and even though I decided to plumb the BOV back into the intake, it still sounds tough

A question for those with turbz motors - when idling in traffic on a 25degree day, how hot does you car get? The Sirius was working it's way past 90degrees today and it wasn't a hot day....

[TUFSIG]

on a 30 degree day my motor runs pretty good i mean my thermo kicks in at 85 and it would come on everyknow and then
what kind of cooling are you running

[TUFSIG]

and plumb back bovs sound better then atmo bovs man so its all good lol

[Cottees]

and plumb back bovs sound better then atmo bovs man so its all good lol

Atmo BOVs also scream "I HAVE A TURBO IN HERE!!" which is good if you want to show off, bad if you don't want coppers to know.

[TUFSIG]

plumb backs still do make quite a bit of noise just less wanky

[Shifta]

Cool, thanks for the info. My thermo is mounted in the centre of the radiator and comes on with the ignition so runs all the time. At the moment just running the standard radiator.

And for interests sake I just tracked down a photo of the sirius motor in the GE many years ago - looks different now!

[TUFSIG]

cool mate
im running a rebuilt sigma radiator with clutch fan and i have a thermo on the radiator and on the intercooler to force air onto it when it starts to get hot
its a bit different but its worked for me and keeps the temps low on 17psi of boost lol

[GB_BB4C]

and plumb back bovs sound better then atmo bovs man so its all good lol

Atmo BOVs also scream "I HAVE A TURBO IN HERE!!" which is good if you want to show off, bad if you don't want coppers to know.

I have a atmo bov and is usually switched off (have it running off a solenoid so can turn it on and off). Can hardly hear mine anyway throught all the noise from re-verb coming through the intake pipe.

on a 30 degree day my motor runs pretty good i mean my thermo kicks in at 85 and it would come on everyknow and then
what kind of cooling are you running

Told ya ya fan looks a bit small. Think an upgrade is needed.

[DanTurboLancer]

Well done shifter, looks great mate!
Can't see what lurks within from the front,
And going plumb back,
And if you fit a high flowing but quiet exhaust it will be a perfect sleeper.

I like that you used black intercooler rubber hose to keep the from factory look!


I think you already know but the main reason people don't use the 1.8litre,
Is because capacity wise they are smaller than the factory 2litre.
There is nothing wrong with them from what I've heard.
But the single cam Starion 4G63T is about same price, same to fit,
But has many more aftermarket off the shelf parts available.


Take it easy on the gearbox.
It will last no worries, but won't handle heaps of abuse.
But great for a daily.
And a good condition standard clutch will be fine.



Your fuel and cooling systems are the most important parts now, so investing money there will be beneficial.
Sounds like you have the fuel system covered.
Maybe an after market fuel pressure regulator would be good.

And definitely some thought towards the cooling system to avoid replacing head gaskets or possibly cracked heads.
Has your radiator been serviced recently?
Is the core in good condition?
Need a reverse flush, or even a core replacement?
Is your radiator cap any good?
Make sure you use a radiator overflow bottle.

See all hoses in good condition? Any that are worn, cracking, or hard or crackle when you squeeze them.
Replace immediately.
Replace your thermostat, they are less than $20 but can ruin all your fun.

I am envious of the amount of room you have between the rad and the front of the motor!
If you can fit a mechanical fan, do it!
If you can fit a bigger electric thermo fan, do it!

If you can fit a second fan next to your current one do that.

[Shifta]

Thanks guys, I don't recall having an issue with that thermo in the GE but maybe the radiator was better. I think I'll consider all of the above - will look at the possibility of one big thermo to cover the whole radiator first, and possibly change the thermostat to something the opens a tad sooner. I can't go back to clutch fan now as we've taken up the space with the lower intercooler pipe. I'm not sure if two thermo's will fit side by side but will measure it up with an old radiator I have in the shed first and go from there. If still an issue I'll look at getting the radiator flushed and checked .

From the limited driving I've done the heavy duty clutch is holding up ok and I'll definitely keep an eye on the gearbox