75wagon's GD sedan, now wagon project...

[webby]

Speaking of wacky ideas, LSD, front coilovers, sort the rear suspension, decent brakes that fill out those 16's, orange gradient Recaro LS front seats w/burgundy interior, Nardi Classic, DOHC 4G63T conversion and slam it

[geezer101]

what about a Legnum ute????

Wha...

Speaking of wacky ideas, LSD, front coilovers, sort the rear suspension, decent brakes that fill out those 16's, orange gradient Recaro LS front seats w/burgundy interior, Nardi Classic, DOHC 4G63T conversion and slam it

...and remortgage your home while you're at it Dave It's as rusty as noi5y's old wagon, lotta work in there. I haven't seen any pictures of the fuel filler (but considering what the rest of the body looks like I would assume it's rusted out too). Cut the fuel inlet and door out and weld in a remote release filler (once again, a Cordia one with the release cables would work...)

[75wagon]

Don't forget chaps, it's the Green wagon (Prosser's old one) that I will be rebuilding, not the brown one. The green one has no rust in the shell at all.
I'm not planning on re inventing the wheel, or getting things really complicated by doing body mods that need engineer approval. The motor will be difficult enough in NSW, and may actually not be possible with the current rego rules in NSW

I will be using parts that I have collected, so the motor will either be 1600 (4G32), 2000 (4G52) or 2600 (4G54).

The brown GD wagon will become the parts donor for the light green GD. Hopefully I can get the 2.6 passed otherwise there wasn't really much point buying the brown wagon. As for struts the brown GD has GH struts already fitted, which is why I can fit the Rotas on it.

...and remortgage your home while you're at it Dave

This build will be very price sensitive, the GC wagon may have to be sold to fund the build? Well, in the end, how many Galant wagons does one need?
If this build eclipses the GC (more quality and more performance), I will gladly sell the GC, but it would have to go to a good home...

[75wagon]

Well, here's my latest acquisition

1992 GSXR 1100 CARBURETORS CARBS 40mm

pics straight from ebay




They are in Canada, and on their way already, I should see them in 8 days or so, then the fabrication begins.

The plan is to get these on the 2.6 engineered and legal.
It's going to be a massive learning curve for me, but with Superscan's knowledge on the subject and my brothers recent experience with a similar set up (with Superscan's guidance as well) I should get through it just fine

I'll be posting my progress as I go, I'm planning to make a manifold from scratch, and I know a bloke who's local to me who's a professional welder, so hopefully it should come out looking pretty tidy in the end.
I'll be fabricating an airbox for them as well, and run a cold air induction setup (mostly for noise reduction, and to keep the registry office happy).

Dave...

[Superscan811]

It's going to be a massive learning curve for me, but with Superscan's knowledge on the subject and my brothers recent experience with a similar set up (with Superscan's guidance as well) I should get through it just fine

Good to see someone else take up the challenge Dave. As for the "learning curve" it's really quite easy and in my opinion, simpler to tune than a Weber or Dellorto.

The main thing I can recommend is a wideband oxygen sensor, preferably with a logger for TPS and RPM as well as oxygen. There are several out there but bang for buck,Tech Edge 2Y DIY Kit for $250 delivered if you are handy with a soldering iron or if not, for $300 delivered, Tech Edge 2J2/9 pre-built kit is a good choice.

The DIY kit has more inputs you can log with but the 2J2/9 has enough inputs for basic tuning.

A set of motorbike carb balancers is also handy but as Cheaterparts told me, using a 1/8th drill bit to get the butterflies set at the same height works well.

The only other thing I would do is to nickel plate the "needle jet" as these are made of brass and the usually wear quickly.

Jane's Kits, which are up your way, in Newcastle, do an electroless nickel setup which is very easy yo use.

The rest will just take a little bit of time. I set up Rally_2.6LC's 4G32 in around 2 hours. It was a good basic tune.

Your brother told me he was wanting to get an extra second per lap at Wakefield.

His son wound up with almost an extra 4 seconds per lap, and the carbs still needs a bit better tuning as they are running a bit lean. He seemed happy with the improvement.


Cheers.

[75wagon]

Well they arrived today, and I'm happy to say, I checked the measurement on the outlet and it's 40mm.

[Superscan811]

The first thing for a bit of "BLING", Stainless socket headed cap screws.

Cheers.

[geezer101]

OooooOOOoohh, pretty carbies! You can always get SS hex key screws from Bunninngs or any specialty fastener place. They look tough and are harder to chew out (unlike phillips head screws when they've been sitting a while). Let's face it, if you're gonna do something you should spend a few extra bucks and replace all the screws to freshen it up. Did someone mention the bling factor?
They're good for rebuilding original carbies too...

[75wagon]

Thanks for the find Superscan, they have just been purchased. It's actually 1 of the first thing I had planned for them anyway, but as a kit it's just too easy.

I'm now looking for a reasonably priced set of 4 carb kits.

Here's where the plans are so far, start working on an aircleaner and cold air intake first, then I can work out how long I need to make the intake runners on the manifold.
I'll be leaving the 2.6 Galant wagon together till I get the carbs mounted on it so I can trial them, and make sure all is good. Then the next step is to strip the green auto wagon, and start getting ready for the respray. So I'm planning to build a rotisserie (that should be interesting?) and go the whole nine yards on this one.
I also need to start getting quotes from motor trimmers as I wont be happy till I get my red interior
I'm after a re-trim that looks like it could have been factory, but I just don't know atm how hard that is going to be? (or how expensive?) I need to take my wagon

I've worked out a budget that I'm trying to keep to, and as usual with me, time I have money I don't, so I'll be aiming at doing things that I can achieve myself, rather then relying on paying someone.
My next restriction is my wife reminding me that I still have house renovations that I have to complete, but if I don't start this build soon, it will be sitting there forever.

Dave...

[geezer101]

Too bad you didn't get the original air box off the Suzuki with the carby rack - you could've ratted the seals off it for the new air plenum you'll need to design. I had thought of taking the EFI plenum off a Hyundai Excel (the blow moulded ABS one) and modding it for a quad rack, then ditching the throttle body and either borrowing the adapter from an air cleaner box and the ducting or finding an aftermarket adapter to mount on the end of the plenum. Should be both easy and cheap enough to do.

[75wagon]

Too bad you didn't get the original air box off the Suzuki with the carby rack - you could've ratted the seals off it for the new air plenum you'll need to design.

Would have been easier, but not what I'm after.
Don't forget, I do shiny not fast. My plan is to make something that looks really pretty, and hopefully functional too?

[75wagon]

Anyone know where I can get a cheaper version of this type of thing?
Inline thermostat housing


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Tuned-Univ ... 017wt_1163

I'm thinking that something like this would make the manifold much simpler to make, and most likely more attractive?

Edit: I suppose I could just order 2 of these, then machine a recess into the back of one, and then just bolt them together?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Redline-Chro ... 894wt_1163

Dave...

[75wagon]

I've spent the day trying to work out how I'm going to fit a cold air intake for the quad carbs, and make it all legal for engineering.

Option 1. remove the factory fan and convert to a thermo fan, then fit a radiator spacer (like 2nd pic) and use the spacer to make room for a cold air intake.
GC/D Galant engine bay with 2.6 Astron


GC/D Galant engine bay with 1.6 Saturn


Option 2. remove the factory battery carrier, and rotate the battery position 90degs. This makes plenty of room for a cold air intake/air cleaner for the quad carbs.
GC/D factory battery carrier




battery rotated into position, and spaced out to show how it would sit with a real sized battery in place.


With the battery rotated, and raised up, it leaves me this much room for height. The bonnet adjuster/spacer is the lowest point of the bonnet.


And also with the battery rotated, it gives me access for 2 places to draw cold air from without having to cut the radiator support


I also checked my clearance for how much room I have to play with for strut tower to 2.6 block clearance (280mm max)


The carb widths (100mm)


I also started trying to plan for how I'm going to fit an air cleaner set up


Dave...

[A112H]

I think rotating the battery or fitting a small dry cell would be the best option.
I have to commend you on the neatly ruled line on the cardboard cut out Dave, I would have run some grease around the edge of the carbs and placed them on the cardboard to leave a marking

[75wagon]

I have to commend you on the neatly ruled line on the cardboard cut out Dave, I would have run some grease around the edge of the carbs and placed them on the cardboard to leave a marking

It was a very, very poor attempt at trying to be accurate

I've umm'd and argh'd over how to do this for quite a while now.
My current thinking is the fibreglassing course I did a few years ago is going to help me with this. I just can't think of any other practical way that I can manufacture the parts I need with the skills, and tools that I have available to me.

Dave...

[orangelancer]

im with jase. i think rotating the battery 90 degrees or even even relocating it to the boot might be an idea. the smaller dry cell batteries are a bit pricey.

[75wagon]

or even even relocating it to the boot might be an idea

Not possible in a wagon, the rear floor, is the rear floor, there's no secret of hidden panel in there. The petrol tanks sits underneath, and the spare wheel goes under the petrol tank.

[mstrrab1992]

Tbh I'd just put 4 little k&n pod filters on and be done with it.

[Superscan811]

Tbh I'd just put 4 little k&n pod filters on and be done with it.

I did that, but you can notice when the engine bay gets hot, the power does drop a little.

IMHO, cold air induction would be a very good idea. I'm even looking at an air deflection setup that actually creates a small amount of boost at higher speeds.

Can't hurt..


Cheers.

[geezer101]

No chance of relocating the battery to the other side of the engine bay? I would ditch the the pump driven fan and go for the electric thermo fan anyway (IMO it gives the engine a cleaner look and takes a load off the pump + lets the engine rev a little more freely). I think an air plenum will get you an extra 2 kW's at least and help bump up the torque figures too. The longer the air intake is will also aid in torque. You may need to do some surgery to the inner front panel to get an adequate sized hole for the intake (enlarging the hole next to the left hand high beam would be ideal, but it may already be good enough). Cold air induction would be only way to go for this awesome set up!

[75wagon]

You may need to do some surgery to the inner front panel to get an adequate sized hole for the intake (enlarging the hole next to the left hand high beam would be ideal, but it may already be good enough).

I really don't want to cut the front apron or mod it at all, If I need more air, I could always use the space above the front apron and under the bonnet for an intake to increase the amount of air flowing in there.
Like what my 2005 Lancer uses.


Why I'm aiming at the cold air induction?
It is not a first priority for me, I'm actually aiming the complete carb set up at being RTA friendly so I can get it through engineering as smoothly as possible. The idea of using a enclosed air cleaner is so I can plumb the crankcase ventilation into it (just like it can from the factory). I've only got 280mm to play with between the block and the strut tower, so if I run an air intake tube to the carbs, then I can fit an element in a box near the battery. This way it keeps the induction noise down to a minimum, thus keeping the powers that be happy. So while I'm building the aircleaner box, why not plumb it to the front of the car and have it draw in cool fresh air at the same time? All I'm trying to do is think ahead

If I wanted to go simple, I'd just run a set of 4 of the green foam type air cleaners, but I think that it would be frowned upon for when I try to get it engineered. I want to give them the least amount of reasons possible to knock it back, so I don't have to go back and do it all again.

Dave...

[75wagon]

Well, I just got home from the fibreglass supplies shop.

Let the intake plenum build begin

Dave...

[Scorpma82]

just as a thought (and i've got no idea what ur upto), alot of the ford Escort guys that run twin side draughts build a square plenum that connects to the trumpets and run some condulated tubing pointing towards the front (of the car)

You could bend up some steel sheetmetal into the same shape and run some smooth tubing towards the front of the car
(IMO) It looks a bit more neater...can be threaded easily for all your emission purposes

(i was going to go down this path and even build a lil 'channel' under the plenum to hold dry ice for the drag days....try and make the air a bit more dense)

(i've also considered building lil tanks on the side of the radiator tanks and fill up with dry ice to dry and cool down the water....for track days)

[orangelancer]

maybe you could make use inside the front guards as a sort of airbox. alot of cars already do this

[75wagon]

Practice run.

alot of the ford Escort guys that run twin side draughts build a square plenum that connects to the trumpets and run some condulated tubing pointing towards the front (of the car)

That's pretty much what I will be doing. ATM, everything is just a plan and could possibly change.

maybe you could make use inside the front guards as a sort of airbox. alot of cars already do this

How am I going to do that without cutting the shell?
That's what I'm trying to avoid.

Trust me, what I have planned should work.

Dave...

[Superscan811]

Posted this before but it's still well worth a read.

Bellmouth design

Cheers.

[75wagon]

You picking on me Superscan?

My last post I finished quickly as I had been called for dinner (so I had to make it quick).

I didn't have anything suitable (big enough) to make a bellmouth mould from. This was just a bit of firewood that I quickly turned up on my lathe. I just wanted to test my catalyst/resin ratios and see if I was going to get a stick up without any release agent. I was a bit surprised actually that I didn't have a problem with sticking at all. I just used cut back polish (that didn't contain silicone) because that's all I had laying around that was suitable.
What I found is my mix was a bit too cold, and I had to bake it in the BBQ to get it to set.

Dave...

[Superscan811]

You picking on me Superscan?

Not yet but I'll wait and see...

I know you will do a good job of it, and just wanted you to have all the required info to do an exemplary job..

Having a "CommonWhore" killer galant wagon is a good thing, and will only benefit the S-G community, this is my motivation.

Cheers.

[75wagon]

OK, so last night was practice.
Here's my attempt at the mould I need.





It still needs a bit of finishing work, but the shape is there. The mould is a 2 piece so I can get a lip to sit on the front of the carb snouts.

Dave...

[75wagon]

Another day, more material, and a little bit more work.
Anyone know what this is?


The icing on the cake

More work on the mould. This is fibreglass resin with q cells added (makes the resin like car filler). When dry I'll stick this back in the lathe, and sand it back to smooth, then it should be ready to start moulding off. I'm not going to worry about putting gelcoat (or flowcoat) I'm just going to put plenty of release agent on it.
I'll probably put the velocity tubes in the lathe and spin them up, then rub them back and polish them while I'm at it.

Dave...