LA Lancer 1974 2 door

[mick]

that he is.I hope that you have got it to brake and handle ,It was a pig to drive.He did get that 2.6L motor reconditioned, my mate had a hell of a time with it on the dyno.I wasn't overly impressed with the way the 2.6L turbo motor performed(OLD TURBO BEFORE ENGINE RECO)i felt that my car had heaps more grunt.I can get my lancer to spin the wheels 2nd,3rd,4th,5th.but i never got to drive Gus's lancer with the setup it had when you got it.

[77galantv6]

after seeing this thing in the flesh on sunday i am really impressed.

not quite as good as the magazine shows it (sorry dan) but still really nice.

keep up the good work.

good to finally meet you - all the newcastle crew should meet up one day for a cruise somewhere....(just an idea)

pulls a mean skid too haha

dean

[DanTurboLancer]

haha Thanks Dean, yeah great to finally catch up!

Yeah not quite what the mag made out, but slowly getting there i hope

Cheers mate hopefully catch up again soon!

[DanTurboLancer]

abit more work has been going ahead

Here is the old external oil cooler set up.......



and note the Oil Pressure sensor position....



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Here is the New Oil Cooler, and Braided hose (proper stuff not the cheap crap you buy from Super cheap that slips over the normal hose).









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All back together and pretty happy with it.


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Had a Hill climb on last weekend.
It was going to be the first in this car.

Was all set to go, warming the car up, and as i walked around it to leave, i noticed a small oil patch under it.
Found it was the Oil Pressure sensor.
Grabbed a hold to try to tighten it up and stop the leak.
A gentle twist, and i snapped the bloody thing off in my hand,
Small leak Became large leak lol


The thread of the Brass Tee peice the Senor was mounted on it sheared off inside the External Filter block...

So had to pull the lot apart again!


So now i have mounted the sensor direct into the Block, and tidied up the wiring (the Blue and Black wires that could be seen coiled up at the back of the engine bay...)



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Oh and while i had my head in there i noticed some of the Bolts for the Turbo had started to come undone again!
As i tried to tighten the Lower right, the frigin thing sheared off.
It was Top right last time....

So ive pulled the Manifold off for a proper tidy up.

Im going to take Stealths advice,
and drill and tap the holes, and then fit Thread Inserts in a Fine thread pitch.
Then that should stop the Bolts binding up in the thread of the metal.


Has anyone else had this problem so often with these Manifolds and the Bolts binding up and shearing off on every removal??




And you can see the top left where the gasket had started leaking again.







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[DanTurboLancer]

Oh and topped up the credit card the other day and bought myself a Chrissy Present.



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Its only a cheapy.
T3/T4 Monsta (Ebay special)
600 Hp and 12 months warranty.
Delivered to the door within 4 days.

Give it a go while i save up for a new exhaust manifold and a Garrett....

[A112H]

Looking the goods mate, it is coming along nicely.
With the bolts from turbo to manifold, I have mainly worked with Nissan's and they have the same problem of coming loose or snapping when being removed. Best bet if you have the room is to drill out the thread and use high tensile bolts with split washers and loc tight.

Cheers
Jason

[stealth]

dan as i siad man put a set of proper studs in
grade 12.9 with k/nut suited to turbo application(possibly ARP)
then you will have LESS dramas but thay need to be replaced
EVERY time you remove them after being heated
do not torque up nuts when hot big no no
cheers stealth

[DanTurboLancer]

Aww bugger, gotta be quicker than that Stealth

Ive already drilled out the holes and fitted 10 x 1.25 Helicoils....
These Turbos only have a really small space between the Housings and the Base, so ill see how it goes.

As I said its just until i can save for one of your manifolds and a Garrett.
But thanks man!!


Hopefully having the Helicoils will reduce the Bolts seizing and binding in the Flange but too...



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i also gave the Exhaust Manifold a Coat of Black heat proof paint just to tidy it up abit.

And im waiting to get back the oil cooler lines which were hanging too low,
so im getting them shortened abit.

And I pulled the boot apart and gave the floor pan a tidy up and had time to give it a quick spray of Undercoat.


Im away with work this week, but hopefully get the oil cooler lines back on friday arv or sat morn, throw the Turbo back on.
And give the Boot a couple of coats of Gloss Black over the weekend.

Then do a neater install of the Fuel system and battery.





This is how the Fuel system looked when i got it...disgracefull!

* The closest pump is supposed to be a Lift Pump!*



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You can see here the ordinary job of wiring, and because the Cheap bugger wouldnt spend an extra 20, the Battery wasnt a sealed type, so there is Battery acid forming corrosion every where, luckily it isnt deep.

Got some Baking Soda to Neautralize the Acid, and got stuck in with the wire brush...



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So away this week, and hopefully get back into it on the weekend....


Dan

[DanTurboLancer]

Pretty happy with the way the Boot has come up, Gloss Black.
Battery box installed with a proper sealed Battery, so no more acid spills!




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Just doing the Fuel pumps next and away i go

[DVSGAL]

Looking goood dan!
Love ur work ;)

[DanTurboLancer]

Hey guys Ive been told this is a Starion Hi Jet Head, and not a Magan head as I first thought.
Now im trying to find out where to get power from so i can set up the Tacho trigger.

Are these plugs the same on the Magna's?

There isnt a Negative on the Coil pack itself, just that plug, so how do i tell what is the Negative wire, or should i go off one of the 4 wires from the Dizzy??

Any help would be great, im no Leco






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--------------------------------------

[fridgeGB]

Hey mate. Just wanted to say that u have a sweet ride. Cant wait till I finish my apprenticeship so i can get some money again and give my car the treatment it deserves lol. I know u said alot of it was done wen u bought it but congrats on wat u have done to it urself. The little changes make a big difference and makes it rally feel more like ur car. all the best for the future plans

[Superscan811]

Hey guys Ive been told this is a Starion Hi Jet Head, and not a Magan head as I first thought.

It's a US Starion "JET VALVE" head. In the US they all try to ditch them for the M6 or M7 Magna heads and then go MPI.

You have the MPI setup so ditch the US head, grab a M7 one then maby put in larger Stainless Steel valves and double valve springs and all will be good.

There isnt a Negative on the Coil pack itself, just that plug, so how do i tell what is the Negative wire, or should i go off one of the 4 wires from the Dizzy??

NO.
The TACHO will be expecting a much higher signal level than the outputs from the Hall effect sensors in the EFI dizzy. The hall effect sensor will only switch about 1/20th of an amp.
If you try and use it, you most likely won't get the engine to spark.
There should be a "TACHO OUTPUT" somewhere on your ECU.
If not, have a look at the other end of the COIL, opposite end to where the coil leed plugs in. There should be a 2 pin plug there.

NOTE:
Be careful if you are using a "Transistor Pack" or "CDI" (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to run the coil, some of these actually increase the voltage (some even go over 100V) to where you would usually plug in 12v. This would kill your tacho if you wired it up incorrectly.

Cheers.

[DanTurboLancer]

Wow Thanks for your words FridgeGB,
Really appreciate that!


And thank you too DVSGAL, when do we get to see pics of your wikid little wagon??




And Superscan thank you again,

Ill have to look closer at that Coil pack for those pins on the back you referred to.
The 2 pin Grey plug in the top pic wouldnt be anything i could use??



I had abit of a look at the computer (and if anyone knows how a Microtech LT8 has is Tacho wiring hooked up please let me know)
Wold like to know the wire colour...

Seeing as Its running the Dizzy and not individual Coil packs, can i take the signal from the No.1 coil output?
Or is that redundant when not in use?

Do those coil leads put out too high a voltage to be safe to use on a Tacho, or are they a low current signal??



ah and by the "Transistor Pack" or "CDI" (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to run the coil - do you mean those metal cased things you always see in these Mitsus?
Mine doesnt have them...


Ill take a closer look at the Coil pack in next couple of days. and get back to you.




And just out of interest with the heads you were recommending, just how much gain would i get from them?
Is it best to get the head i have ported and Larger Valves.
Or is the gain by going to the Magna M7 substantial?


Thanks again
Dan

[Superscan811]

And just out of interest with the heads you were recommending, just how much gain would i get from them?Is it best to get the head i have ported and Larger Valves.Or is the gain by going to the Magna M7 substantial?

I guess you could use your current head but, from memory,
without any port work, the M6 and M7 heads flowed between 10-40% better than the other Astron heads.

Using a M6 or M7 head, even if you just removed the casting marks in all the ports and radius'd a few of the sharp bends under the valve seats, you would be way in front of a well ported "JET VALVE" head.

On a Normally Aspirated engine, air speed and port length is very important for both inlet and exhaust. The shape, size and volume of the ports along with the path the air has to travel, is critical to maximize performance.
For a forced induction engine, it is important, but not as critical.

The inlet port diameter in the Astron I was 38mm. The Astron II M6 and M7 heads have an inlet port diameter of 42mm. That's over a 20% increase in volume it can flow.

Two of the biggest limitation with the Astron heads are:
1. Valve size is too small for the ports.
2. The angle of the ports.

We can't do too much about the angle of the ports without spending A LOT of money and/or time, but, we can cheaply put in larger valves.
With 1mm larger valves, you can use your existing valve seats with no issues. This would allow the head to flow an extra 2.5%.
I'm going 2mm oversize so that should give me an extra 5% flow.


Sorry for the long winded response. I hope some of this information is useful to you.

Cheers.

[MrBishi]

The main problem with the jet-valve head is cracking. The Magna heads are much better.

Also note that you have a magna EFI dizzy not starion.

[DanTurboLancer]

Thanks guys,

Thats is a fairly significant increase just in stock form, so yeah i can see the benefits! and further modification will gain easy power...


So that can be added on the To Do list for the future .


And yeah MrBishi that was why i wasnt sure if it might be a Magna head.
But between "Superscan" and "Mick", ive been fortunate that both of those guys had abit of history with the car, and through the old owner and have been able to help me out with plenty of good info



ATM I just want to drive the bloody thing.

Since i bought it its been running for maybe about a month all up, what with the diff and everything else ive done/had to do haha.




I got to have a look at the Coil today and yeah Superscan it does have those two pins on the back...

Can you tell me which i should be using for the Tacho?
Vertical or horizontal?
Or do i just use a test light and prob for the one that is flashing??








Thanks again for everyones input and helpful advise

Dan

[Superscan811]

The standard setup should be switching the negative on and off, so when your ignition is on, you should get a constant +12v on one of the pins.
Use the other pin for your tacho signal.

If the tacho still doesn't work after that let me know, you can use a "pull up" resistor (about 3c to buy) to get it going.

Cheers.

[Superscan811]

I have been trying to find these figures for a while.
I believe they were originally posted on a now dead site, T-Racing.

Flow #'s for intake @ 28" and .400 Lift:

Stock Jet Valve Head.........................151 cfm (US Starion)

Non Jet Valve Head............................165 cfm (Early Astron II)

Mild Ported Marnal..............................188 cfm (Aftermarket US Starion)
Heavy Ported Marnal...........................211 cfm (Aftermarket US Starion)

Stock 2nd Gen Magna.........................187 cfm (M6 -M7)
Ported 2nd Gen Magna........................208 cfm (M6-M7)
2nd Gen Magna With 50mm Valves.........285 cfm (M6 -M7)

Stock 3rd Gen Magna..........................179 cfm (M8 -M9)


Cheers.

[DanTurboLancer]

Great Thanks for that Superscan!!

What with the extra cost of swapping manifolds and everything else,
i wont be doing a head change out anytime soon, but i appreciate that and will keep it in mind for later on down the track.

Cheers Dan

[DanTurboLancer]

just abit more of an update.


Put the fuel system together.

I asked a question in the Electrical section about wiring up the 2 pumps,
if anyone can help me out there.
I put it there so everyone can see...
http://www.sigma-galant.com/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2439


A reminder of how it used to look....



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And now sprayed the Surge tank to match the boot.
I had the Lift pump from the 4 door.
And bought a new Bosch 044 main pump.
all new hoses and clamps.
and mounted on a piece of checker plate i had lying around.





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[DanTurboLancer]

I went back to Stealths knowledgable advise and went with Studs in the manifold with the Helicoils.
10 x 1.25 fine thread
So hopefully will stop them shearing off on removal...

------------------------

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The rear housing has AR .63 on it.
Can anyone let me know what sort of rpm i should see boost at?


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The oil return pipe was pinched to make it around the Front housing, and was very restricted. It was also weeping oil and had been patched up with that Metal solvent stuff. So i got access to a Surface grinder, and made a new flange plate. And used 1/2" fittings...


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[DanTurboLancer]

Ok so the exciting moment, checked everything over...
Turned key on to prime the pumps.....
Electrical burning smell...

Its burnt out the Condensor

Just thinking its an Earth fault??
Seeing as ive painted the boot, and then fitted new Earth lead,
But i have a long bolt earthing the cable that goes right through the body...

And the only other thing is the Coil bracket that the coil and Condensor are mounted to, after pulling it out to look at the plugs for the Tacho trigger, i painted the bracket.
So im assuming its a bad earth on that Bracket because of the paint???




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Oh yeah and best of all was where it has shorted against the body and burnt the paint.... Awesome

[stealth]

dude i like your work on the oil return BUT man you can run the oil out
at 90 degress it needs the be pointing straight down so gravity can do its
thing if there is any i mean ANY sort or restriction or back pressure it will
smoke the turbo
just a thought
cheers stealth

[DanTurboLancer]

Ahh ok, i saw a twin turbo big buck vehicle the other day that had similar set up and thought seeing as it has Positive pressure one side it might bleed away the other...

Is it that the Bearing housing is layed flat that will cause the prob?
Or that the outlet goes into an immediate 90Degree turn???

Cause if its the 90 straight out of the Turbo i can change that no worries!!
But if its the way the turbo is leaned over, the it will make thinks WAY more uncomfy!!


So any explaination for the shorting of the Condensor/ ignition system???

[MrBishi]

Stealth,
the starion factory oil return point is into the timing case roughly above the water pump outlet. It comes out of the turbo at right agles from factory without a drama.

[stealth]

yeah i know that you can get away with it on a quaity turbo like
a td-o5 but a cheap ebay job might not like the extra oil ling around
the seal as i said just a thought
go with it and see how you go if it starts using oil well face it down
and you should be able to spin the cartridge with movint the front and
rear housng
cheers stealth

[DanTurboLancer]

Thanks Stealth, yeah the main reason i did it that way was because the Wastegate vac pot is in a bugger of a spot, and the plate i made is slighty too large and is interferring with the bolts on the front housing.

Im going to take your advise and spin that bearing housing down, and ill mill some of the plate off so i can get it on when its near one of the bolts.



Got a new Ignition condensor, or suppressor what ever you call it, and put it on a different spot, and it started no worries.

[DanTurboLancer]

I had abit of a look behind the gauges under the center consol,
and surprise surprise, total shit fight....

So i tidied up some of the wiring...



BEFORE



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AFTER

[77galantv6]

love your work dan!

it is getting to become what the magazine shows it as

keep up the good work

you coming on the cruise?

cheers,
Dean