My new GH Turbo project..

[Superscan811]

My new purchase..

Paid way too much for it but it does seem to have minimal rust.






Running some of the GH Sigma turbo gear, but with a US Starion log exhaust manifold and a Rajay turbo.





LOTS of mechanical work required to get it to a usable and safe condition..

The first major job will be change the Front struts because they are completely shot. A pair of Starion ones will take their place, which will also give me vented rotors. I'll also add in the power steering while this is happening.

The 2nd major job will be changing the clutch, flywheel and gearbox. All are working fine but I prefer to have them a little stronger. I'll be using my lightened billet flywheel and clutch along with a modified Starion gearbox (with a short extension housing grafted onto it). This will require the installation of a hydraulic clutch.





First few cosmetic things off the list were:
1. To change the standard single spoke Scorp steering wheel for the nicer Sigms GSR one
2. Changing the 14" rims for some 17" rims I had lying around.

Also, when I got under the car to check the exhaust for a leak, I found ALL the tailshaft bolts were loose, and they were the wrong ones as well. The only semi intelligent thing they did was to use Nyloc nuts, otherwise the tailshaft would have fallen out, somewhere...


Cheers.

[Scorpma82]

Can't see the pics

(not sure if it's the links or my computer)

[Sigmaproject]

I can assure you the pics are there. Interesting the way that Starion exhaust manifold brings the carby into a much better alignment than the factory Sigma manifold.

[Scorpma82]

Yeah I just tried it on my phone....pics were showing nicely.....good find

Just one question.......U happy to share the rest of those cars with us??? or are u just greedy and keeping them all???

[Superscan811]

Just one question.......U happy to share the rest of those cars with us??? or are u just greedy and keeping them all???

Have been trying to sell the 2 GN wagons for a while through Matt (Rally_2.6LC) but no takers. The other 2 GH Scorps are not for sale but for the right price, the GK and GJ Scorps could leave the yard...

Cheers..

[Superscan811]

Now I have seen some very average work done before, but to be honest, this is definitely up there with the worst.




The strut is now a throw away. This weld was at the back of the strut so I couldn't see it until, after struggling for an hour on the car and damaging the shock. I decided to take it out completely.

I was just planning to replace the shock absorber today and do the Starion front strut conversion in a few weeks. Guess my time frame for this has moved up.


Cheers.

[stealth]

Hay if your throwing those two struts would you consider chopping the whole stub axels off threw the bottom of the tube and sending to me at my cost ?
Cheers stealth

[RXCORP]

Nice... good to see another scorpion in the build.

Sending you a PM

[Superscan811]

A new bit of kit arrived this morning..






I wonder where this will be going...


Cheers.

[75wagon]

Very Nice.
I think I'm going to have to come and have a look at this..
Actually, Ferg and I are coming to Sydney tonight. We're heading to Harry's at Liverpool

Dave...

[Superscan811]

Bought 2 used Stromberg carbies to rebuilt the one on the car.

Here is a small sample of why..






The parts were held together with some type of putty.

Even worse, the needle had been modified then soldered.



Didn't run all that well and it flooded if you idled it under 1200rpm.

Now it runs better and doesn't flood, but it does suffer from vapor lock when hot.
Will be fixing that with an electric fuel pump.

The boost controller (just a bleed valve) isn't working properly, but again, I plan to build my own electronic controller. It involves 3 pneumatic solenoids, a bleed valve, an arduino micro controller and a MAP sensor input.

The main problem I see with most bleed valve type boost controllers is they start to open the waste gate way before you have reached max boost. This increases the time the turbo takes to spool.

If you could hold the waste gate fully closed until a few psi before max boost, imagine how much quicker the turbo would spool..

The other advantage of the DIY boost controller is I can program it for the water/ethanol injection as well.

That's my plan..



Cheers.

[Sigmaproject]

Thats why you need this system.....A pressure regulator to set the max boost pressure and a pressure relief to set the pressure at which the pressure regulator gets the signal..
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.ht ... 1&A=111348

I ran this system on my car for years ..works great.

[Superscan811]

Thats why you need this system.....A pressure regulator to set the max boost pressure and a pressure relief to set the pressure at which the pressure regulator gets the signal..
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.ht ... 1&A=111348

I ran this system on my car for years ..works great.

Exactly what I had in mind, only I want to be able to easily and accurately set all parameters on the fly.

I can also program the micro controller to accept a signal from the ECU to change the values, and also implement a Street Mode/Race Mode/Limp Home switch etc..


Cheers.

[Superscan811]

Well the turbo shat it self, so I am getting the shaft re-ground and then will have to make a new bearing for it.

There are limited replacement parts for these turbo's so I am going to have to make my own bearings for it.

At the moment, I'll replace the aluminium bearing with aluminium-bronze bushing, then looking at ceramic ball bearing cartridge later.

Will also be nickel plating the shaft to help in case of oiling issues in the future.

Should be interesting to see the differences between bushing and ball-bearing..




Cheers.

[mstrrab1992]

Keep up the good work super scan. Keeping an eye on this build. Could you explain why not just buy another turbo? Is it easier and cheaper to repair your current one. Or is the one you got a very good one and worth fixing?

[Superscan811]

Could you explain why not just buy another turbo? Is it easier and cheaper to repair your current one. Or is the one you got a very good one and worth fixing?

The Rajay turbo is nicely suited to the Astron so I'd rather keep it up and running if possible. To replace the turbo would indeed cost a lot, not just the purchase price but the modification to the exhaust etc..

$100 to regrind the shaft, a few hours to make the new bush, re-assemble and go..





Cheers.

[mstrrab1992]

Ahh I see I don't know too much bout turbos I've not ventured there....yet... Will have to get up some pics of my lancer build in the near future but look forward to seeing your end project.

[Superscan811]

While the shaft regrind went well, the carbon seal isn't sealing as it should.

Have purchased a Ceramic Ball Bearing kit to retrofit into the Rajay turbo but it will require a bit of fitness to make it work.

The carbon seal wasn't sealing on the Rajay turbo, most likely because the spacer I made wasn't parallel.

The aluminium Bronze bearings were working very well, as it started to boost at 2500rpm but..

The problem was when changing gears, a large plume of white smoke would appear.

Cheers..

[Superscan811]

Decided to go EFI..

Finished modding this today, a TS Magna manifold with a front waterport and plenum modded to suit a Ford EA throttle body.




Slowly moving forward..


Cheers.

[stealth]

Do you have to shorten the intake runners to clear the bonnet in a starion ?
And what computer are you going to use ?
Cheers stealth

[mstrrab1992]

Looking good, looks like you angled it? And made it longer then I usually see is it to do with front mount intercooler in the future?

[Superscan811]

Do you have to shorten the intake runners to clear the bonnet in a starion ?

Didn't need to as it just misses the bonnet in the Scorpion.

And what computer are you going to use ?

I have 4 to choose from but most likely will just use the MicroSquirt with the Dynatek Arc-2 CDI Box and EDIS.
Should work well enough.

Looking good, looks like you angled it? And made it longer then I usually see is it to do with front mount intercooler in the future?

Correct, the angle is to help with plumbing in a FMIC. The extra length is to allow for 4 water injection nozzles.
Instead of modulating the pump speed, I'll just turn each of the nozzles on/off cumulatively to vary the flow. This will allow the nozzles to atomize the water properly.

As this is going to be a daily drive, 200kw at the wheels is all I'm after.


Cheers.

[mstrrab1992]

I've seen a similar setup with a water/methanol injection any plans to add a bit of methanol every now and then? Probably wouldnt make a huge difference but if your going for water injection why not try to incorporate methanol into the mixture bit of extra kick for fun every now and then

[Superscan811]

why not try to incorporate methanol into the mixture bit of extra kick for fun every now and then

Just using the water to help suppress detonation.
Did you know on Normally Aspirated and Turbo engines, under load, you can directly REPLACE up to 20% of your fuel with water and have no ill side effects?
Cruising and light throttle, around 5-10% water can be used successfully.



Cheers.

[Sigmaproject]

Water can be used to great effect even in the old school carby turbo setups. My final setup (when running 15-18LB boost for a couple of years...before returning the whole thing back to stock) was a VN Commodore windscreen washer bottle feeding a brass fogger jet from Bunnings garden department, spraying a water mist controlled by a pressure switch into the air filter.. from around 10lb of boost. Without it , it was virtually impossible not to get horrendous high speed detonation, no matter how far I backed off the timing or enriched the mixture (and still have it drivable). I am always amazed that my motor actually withstood those years of crazyness with seemingly no illefects. (touch wood)

[Superscan811]

Have decided to get my high comp engine up and working in the Scorpion while I prep everything else.

Made a flange for my Quad 50mm throttle bodies.




As a quick refresher, my High Comp engine will have around 14:1 compression ratio and a few nice internals.
50mm inlet valves(Astron-1 are 43mm and Astron-2 are 46mm) and 40.5mm exhaust valves(Astron-1 are 35mm and Astron-2 are 38mm)

Piston height at TDC.


Knife Edged crank.


Forged pistons and rods.


Should spin quite nicely..





and, a few more bits have arrived.


Some 4 pot callipers off a FTO.





Cheers.

[Superscan811]

Also preparing another Turbo Manifold.








Haven't decided what throttle body to use yet but I'm thinking around 65-70mm should work well.



Cheers.

[yno26galant]

Love it !

[Superscan811]

Almost done..
Decided to go for a 75mm throttle body. Think it will work well.










Cheers.

[Superscan811]

Been a while but I've been doing some more work on the Scorp.

Have decided to go E85 and a draw through EFI setup, basically a Throttle Body Injection system. The bonus is I won't have to use an inter-cooler, due to the E85 evaporative cooling the air. This setup isn't ideal, but it should still perform quite well.

.
Here's what the engine bay currently looks like. Using a FORD 65mm throttle body but still need to tweak the throttle leaver design.


Had a few issues installed the S13 alloy radiator, but finally it fits. Also modified a Swirl pot to fit on the side of the strut tower.

EDIS Coil On Plug setup to complete, along with the wiring. Will run a MicroSquirt ECU so I can have fun tuning it.


Still a fair bit of work to go but hope to be finished soon.



Cheers.