new to this site, old school car enthused, ready to drive!

[75wagon]

How mechanically minded are you?
Do you have a workshop manual?
You can buy carby kits for the standard carb easy.
They're not hard to put in.
You might just have shit in the needle and seat.
10L to do a hundred kms is a little excessive.
8.5 to 9L would be more like it.
Give it a tune up.
Clean the plugs, adjust and clean your points, adjust your timing. Make sure your vacuum advance plate can move freely (that's easy to check, take off the distributor cap, take the hose off the carb and suck on it, if you see it move it should be ok).
Make sure everything works on your car properly before you spend any money buying go fast gear for it.
You'd be pissed off if you spent money on a new carb and it was just dirty points.

My first galant used to miss all the time when it was hot, turned out it had a tiny hole in the radiator that aimed straight at the distributor. It only sprayed water onto the distributor when I gave it full throttle. Took me a while to find it. Was a simple fix, ran perfect after.

[driftforlife]

ok, when i find a day i'll give the engine a thorough once over, or twice over
ive had all the timing and all that looked at, from looking at the service manual book and advice on here i'm pretty sure it's the needle and seat, and the valve seals in the engine head aren't sealing right, giving me oil in the mix (obviously not good ), i'll be getting that fixed soonish.

a new or recon carby still looks to be on the cards though ;)

[75wagon]

Check the wear on the shafts for the butterflies. If they are worn they will leak air and cause a vacuum leak (bad).
Other than this a carby kit will fix everything as well as a good carby tune.

I tried to buy a new diaphram for the vacuum secondary and they are unavailable from fuel miser (maker of the carby kits). Does anyone have a source for them?

[driftforlife]

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

some more pics of my Galant with new SAAS woodgrain wheel, taco, my attempt at custom front speaker fitting, original perfect seats , dirty engine bay with my terrible hack-saw job on the air cleaner , and another angle of the car. enjoy, comment, throw ideas...go nuts!

[75wagon]

That's very tidy mate.
What rims are you planning?

[driftforlife]

these are the rims i like and will definitely fit
13x7 inch, and with that massive lip

in one of these colours

not quite sure which will suit and look good.

[C_Fernance]

Those rims look great on most old school cars. I'd go with the platinum colour on a blue car.

[panda]

Man, that car is soooo neat, that I'd keep the 'old school' hub caps.

[75wagon]

These are the ones I want, Koenig Rewinds, They come in 14x7, 15x7 and 16x7, sorry don't know how to make it smaller.....

[driftforlife]

yeh i'll keep the hub caps as well, but i want wider wheels, there's absolutely no lateral grip cheese cutters aren't good enough.

yeh the Koenig's are pretty similar, my wheels also come in 14" 15" and 16" but the offset and backspacing is all wrong, and anyway old cars look gun with lots of tire and less rim

[C_Fernance]

yeh i'll keep the hub caps as well, but i want wider wheels, there's absolutely no lateral grip cheese cutters aren't good enough.

Have you considered having the original wheels widened? They take the original centre out, then weld it into a new/wider outer section. You can keep using the original hubcaps, but can fit much wider tyres. I had it done a couple of years ago with some 14x5 sigma rims. Had them widened to 14x7 for the front and 14x8 for the rear of my Scorpion so i could run 265's.

[75wagon]

I've always wondered what galant rims would look like widened with caps, never seen them.
My brother has a mk2 cortina and it had the standard 13 inch rims widened to 7 inches and chromed. They've got massive offset as well. Unfortunately he took them off and put the 14x6 performance rims as driftforlife posted before.

[driftforlife]

yeh when i asked my local wheels place they said that 'widening' idea was the only thing they could do for my car but it would take a while and would cost over $1000 (same as other options) and the hub caps aren't great, they've got a fair few dents and scratches from previous owners and the guy said they wouldn't be as strong or long lasting as new wheels would be.
i don't know, i might still give that option a second look. ;)

[C_Fernance]

You should be able to do them cheaper than $1000. When i had mine done they cost $77 each if i supplied a brand new outer, or an extra $22 ($99) if I supplied a secondhand rim with the required outer. New chrome 14x8 outers were about $75.

In total the fronts cost $99 each as i used secondhand outers, and the rears about $150 each with new outers. All up they cost $500. I can't really see the price doubling in 3 years.

[75wagon]

Maybe he's including the price of the tyres

[driftforlife]

yeh that was it, it was a while ago, it was with tires. he was getting everything needed (the chrome outers and stuff) but i think he wanted me to get the rim inside from a datsun or gemini, he said my rims were a little rusty around the bolt holes, and he wanted to make sure it was a safe and perfect job.
i'll look further into it and ask the wheel guys some more questions.

[C_Fernance]

You can't use Gemini centres - they have the wrong bolt spacing. Datsun would fit, but the hubcaps may not. Galant wheels have a couple of studs to hold the hubcaps on. You may be better off getting hold of a set from another Galant. At least then you can have them widened and still be able to drive around.

[driftforlife]

yeh i'd rather just get new wheels for that bit extra. ;)

quick question, my brakes fade really really quickly, that is after maybe 3 or 4 hard brakings i have to kick the brake almost to the floor to get any response and even then they're really mushy. what's up with that? or is that normal for older cars/ones without a brake booster?

also, in my quest to find some sort of LSD for my car, i came across the fact that Evo rear LSDs are 8 bolts. does anyone have any information or idea of the sizes and if they could perhaps be fitted into my Galant?

[shuggy]

you running disc front or drum front?
i had the same problem, turned out the slave cylanders wer shot and needed new shoes badly. i was actually scared to druve it in the end coz i knew if i had to stop suddenly, i couldnt.

ps i like your origianal idea of keepin the 4g32, i almost went 4g54 but lack of funds said no, and im happy with my stock engine
i got a recon engine out of a colt (4g32b) with a solex, but its a newer one with wierd shit on it, but the best thing about when sliding around the corners, is that this car is perfectly ballanced,
shit i mean in the wet you can hold sideways for a fukin long time with one hand without spinnin out
try takin the spare tyre out and running on an almost empty tank in the wet, and do a few slides. you wil notice what i mean by ballanced, the ride completely changes

i was in the exact same boat as you a few months ago, im now on my 4th 4g32 (cheaper than rebuildin them ahh) and i dont regret a thing

just a shame to put a forein object into what is maybe the straightest sexyest galant on this site haha

[driftforlife]

yeah shuggy it's got disc front and drum rear. the back don't do anything at all and the front are all right until i use them frequently hard.
yeah it is pretty dam balanced, the most engine upgrade i'll probably do will be twin webers, extractors, and a nice clean & polish.
this car loves the rain, turning becomes easier, tail comes out at the slightest hint of throttle, slides so flat and smoothly, it really likes the casual little angle slides where you just push the rear tires out of grip and it hangs out forever. no other car makes drifting look so smooth and beautiful.


p.s. should be getting a video camera today so watch out for some cruisin videos on youtube, (no hooning, could get in trouble for that).

[GC75]

well if you want webbers i might part with them eventually haha.

[75wagon]

quick question, my brakes fade really really quickly, that is after maybe 3 or 4 hard brakings i have to kick the brake almost to the floor to get any response and even then they're really mushy. what's up with that? or is that normal for older cars/ones without a brake booster?

Flush your braking system with metho, bleed all the brake fluid out and then re-new the brake fluid until you've removed all the metho from the lines. This gets all the shit out of your brake lines and gets rid of the moisture from them too. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Brake fluid also dilutes with metho.

If this doesn't improve your braking then you might want to do up your brakes?
Get:
-master cylinder rebuild kit
-caliper kits
-rear wheel cylinder kits
-new front and rear pads
Buy a workshop manual to help you if you don't already have one, they never go astray.....

[panda]

A good reputable garage will have a little guage for measuring the moisture content of the brake fluid. Get it tested first before going to all the trouble of flushing, takes only 10 seconds to test. Most likely it will measure out of limits & will require flushing.
Any moisture in the braking system has the effect of lowering the boiling point of brake fluid (not good if youre braking hard) & eventually causing corrosion inside your wheel cylinders & calipers.
Everybody should replace brake fluid every couple of years.

panda

[driftforlife]

Just another update and question

the brakes are fine, i just need to stop driving and getting use to my friends' cars with there everything power-assisted and numb, where if you use things like a man you break it

yeah i just bought a second hand exhaust system from sideshow's LA lancer, i know it's a different car but i measured it up at home and it should all fit but the end muffler will be tight between the fuel tank and springs. my local exhaust place said they would have to re-cut the pipe so the muffler goes where it's normally positioned and he was going to charge me if he tried to fit it and it didn't fit :x . so i think i could fit it myself, if i need brackets and stuff i have a friend who is like a professional metal worker ;) , and i would need a heat shield for the fuel tank perhaps. if i could find a canon sized muffler (that shape would fit more easily but i don't want an actual canon muffler) or a hot-dog muffler (but i've been told they are still pretty noisy) that would be easier but i think the heat shield with the muffler i got should be fine, just need to know what material to use for the heat shield.

oh yeah, and does anyone know if the Evo rear LSD diff will fit in a Galant?

thanks for the interest and info

[driftforlife]

Oh Yeah, and i forgot about the real problem...

the gearbox is whining, shaking lots more than when i first got the car, lots of play in gears (stick can move about 2inch every way when it's in a gear :? ), oil leaking some more, gets stuck in gear quite often, and it bangs into gear a fair bit harder than originally.
if indeed this means my gearbox is going to hell, then would it be better to get; the box rebuilt, get a used same 4spd box, or get a different box preferable 5spd (if this option, what gearboxes do i have to choose from?) ????

:? :x
i'm so scared

[tandanus]

If you ask nicely someone here will probably GIVE you a 4 speed box
Most folk go to 5 speed - LB, LC Lancer or Scorpion (all narrow block). You'll need to move the hole in the floor back about 40mm. Its all covered on the site - just search.
T.

[driftforlife]

ok, if the gearbox dies im go on a hunt.

Wooo exhaust is done!







also check it out on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/iiBOXii

also is the stock galant exhaust system worth anything?

[tandanus]

I do like the sound of Saturns
T.

[75wagon]

Sounds like mine, but the twin carbs make mine sound even better

[shuggy]

love seeing a saturn used well ;) good job
no they not worth anythin, saw a set up on ebay for 50 bucks, zero bids