new to this site, old school car enthused, ready to drive!

[driftforlife]

I didn't thing there would be a site dedicated to Sigmas and the mighty Galant.

I've got a 1976 Chrysler Galant Sedan 1.6L Saturn that was previously owned by an old granny, YES!
it's got minor engine and gearbox leaks, but it goes heaps good.

I'm really into drifting and have...believe it or not...got my stock Galant into some decent drifts.
I really want to up the engine with forged internals and probably forced induction, but not spend massive amounts of $$$
It really needs a respray...you'll see when I get photos up (which I don't exactly know how to do, do I have to register with and put them on photobucket or something?)

Main thing I want to know is - Which would be better/easier?
1 leave it normally aspirated and forge internals
2 blow-through-carby or suck-through-carby turbocharger (new turbo or second-hand?)
3 blow-through-carby or suck-through-carby supercharger (new charger or second-hand?) (centrifugal, roots or screw type?)
4 100 shot of NOS naaaah jokes

thanks, will get photos if you ask and if someone tells me how to :?

[Undies91]

hey welcome to the sight
i know wat u mean when u said that u were astonished to find a forum like this one
so was I
with the pics have a look at the tutorial section and yer ur pretty much right with ur photobucket ideas.

catch ya later

Undies91

[driftforlife]

I figured out the photos thing pretty quick, should've looked at the tutorials to start with.

here are some pics...probably more tomorrow or sometime.

[woops]

Welcome to the site

Just something to keep in mind something about cheap performance.

There are three words you need to know. Cheap, fast and reliable. Choose two of them cause you ain't gonna get all three.

With the kinda driving you are looking at doing a diff upgrade would be the first thing to be looking at. Then look at brakes, suspension then wheels and tyres. The last thing to do is to the engine and gearbox upgrade.

All the info is available everywhere on the site and everyone is always have to help with any questions.

[shuggy]

welcome mate, i own the identical same car in kermit green
just noticed there is a chrysler badge on the bonent, mine has a valiant badge :S

[kodos]

Hey, welcome dude
I'm located around the same area so might see you on the road sometime, or give us a yell if you need a hand with anything.

[GC75]

welcome man i want your front bar its incredibly straight

[oldcolt2]

nice set of wheels man!!!!

[driftforlife]

thanks and hi everybody,

woops yeh i know im mad for thinking i can get performance from my car cheap, and i am definitely upgrading everything else first, i just would like to know what performance route i should take when i get to it. and with the diff im thinking about forging a lsd for it, i know sounds crazy, but ive got a friend who is very experienced in metal work and a friend of his is a professional car parts forger sort of thing. ;)

shuggy yeh they tend to all have a different array of badges, it's weird, i'll get some more pics of rest of car.

kodos im not as far as the blue mountains but i do like to go on cruises to distant areas with friends

GC75, your not getting any parts from my car sorry, the back one's a little dented from when the old granny got hit by trolleys in the shopping car park, that's the only place she drove the car, to and from the local shops only did 500km a year

oldcolt2, thanks man, but not particularly on what you meant, im going to be getting new rims sometime soonish, 13x7's with -7 offset and like 4" of machined lip woooo

thanks again for your compliments, it's a fun little car

[driftforlife]

i don't want to swap engines or go electrical, electronics fail to much
i want to keep stock engine with bolt-ons and/or forged insides

[driftforlife]

you can charge anything, it would just have to run low boost because it's an old and wornish engine, but if the internals are forged it should be alright for a little more boost... i'm only hoping for like 100kw at the wheels, and 220kw max, i don't want or need anything over that.
it's for drifting and daily purposes, soon as i lsd it i'll only need a little more power, low power drifting is more fun and skilled...it shouldn't need much, i've already got it to drift even with the open diff and low power, yeah the gearbox and clutch didn't like it but it worked.

[driftforlife]

what if i just recondition worn and necessary parts and just bolt on a second-hand supercharger?
i just really don't want to swap engines, it's way to much hassle especially to get engineered and road legal (coz the RTA sucks big hairy balls :x )
and if i had no option other then death to the galant i would swap a SR20DET into it.
but i don't want to swap engines around.
and what price range are you talking about for my options?
just a rough idea would be nice

thanks

[tandanus]

Everyone here (except for afew die-hards ;) ) will tell you to chuck the Saturn out.
IMHO, if you want heaps of power just throw in a 4G63T.
If you want cheap grunt - 4G54.
I have a blow thru turbo system for my 4G32 but I'll probably will never fit it - for the sort of money it would take to get it working properly I'd go 4G63T.
OK, I have a Saturn 1600 in my street GA. Here's what I've done to it:
Full recon, ballanced, head work, cam, remapped curve, twin SU copies.
Does it produce 100kw? I doubt it. Maybe a bit over 100HP.
But I love it just the same

T.

[driftforlife]

all that work and only a bit more than stock dear god the Saturn is useless for any extra power then
what do you mean remapped curve, isn't mapping for fuel injection?
and sorry to be a noob but what is 'twin SU copies' ?
well i guess the only option is swap or die for the galant...i guess it's a RB20DET or 1GGZE/1GGTE for around $1500 with gearbox, i know a place.

[letmefknin]

well i guess the only option is swap or die for the galant...i guess it's a RB20DET or 1GGZE/1GGTE .

[driftforlife]

what letmefknin, it's go hard or go home, if i'm going to go through the stress of an engine swap why not go all out, and those engines are actually cheaper then any other.

[woops]

An engine swap in the galants is a lot easier then you would think and engineering isn't that hard at all.

I'm not meaning to criticize but by the time you go through with a swap from the nissans with all the expense of making everything fit you would have already gotten a full engine rebuild from many of the mitsubishi engine options and have more power and reliable power.

Pretty much all of the mitsubishi engines up until about 93 will bolt in with factory engine mounts. Even the FWD 4 cylinder from the galant and even the sonata will fit into the galant with minimal problems.

You can put the 2.6 engine in from an auto sigma with not much more hassle then pull the old engine out and bolt on the galant gearbox to the sigma engine with a new clutch. No worrying about gearboxes or engine mounts. It's actually easier then doing any mods to the galant engine.

The SR20 engine is 3x more hassle then the 4g63 VR4 engine.

Keep a look out in the engine section as i will be posting a little info on the many easy engine swaps available for any of the RWD Mitsubishi.

[letmefknin]

Aside from running the risk of tearing the poor little thing in half, I doubt that the effort would be worth it.
As woops has just stated, there are many options for these little cars.
They don't need 'a lot' of grunt to get them going. Slap 150kw (easily achievable with a G63t) under the ass of one and see how fun it can be.
Have a browse through the forum and see for yourself.
I suspect you will start to think differently. ;)

That's all and nice ride!

[driftforlife]

i'm happy to be criticized by people who know about these type of cars and have been through this stuff before.

thanks for the info and sounds good woops, alert me when you've posted info on engine options etc.

are you serious! a evo engine would just bolt in easy! i think i'm going to pass-out

any info on where to get 1 and help on putting it in and i will shower you with exhaust tone

[woops]

I've just posted it up in the engine section. I still have to add in a bit more detail into some of the swaps but yes the VR4 to EVO 3 engine will fit with some starion turbo or l200 engine mounts and a narrow 2L gearbox. The firewall requires a little massaging with a hammer, a custom exhaust manifold. a modified inlet manifold and an adapter for the thermostat. A couple of other little things are required but yeah it's not as hard as it seems. The gearbox is typically the weakest link but that can be rectified with a dellow adapter and a celica box or something similar.

[tandanus]

what do you mean remapped curve, isn't mapping for fuel injection?
and sorry to be a noob but what is 'twin SU copies' ?

You can remap the ignition curve in a distibutor by playing with the components of the mechanical advance mechanism.
These carbs are "twin SU copies"



They are AISAN HF40Ds from a Jap spec 4G32. If you want power, rather than use these, Id go with DCOE40s, but I like old school originals (and I cant afford to have my twin Webers setup )
There has been plenty of dicussion here about the benefits and drawbacks of going 4G54 and 4g63T. SEARCH is your friend.
Remember tha extra HP means upgrades right thru the drive line.....or things will break.
T.

[letmefknin]

i'm happy to be criticized by people who know about these type of cars and have been through this stuff before.

Dude, I wasn't being critical.
I think it would be great if you can squeeze either one of the engines you mentioned into the bay.
I was merely showing my surprise at such a sugestion. ;)

[driftforlife]

yeah, i'm so confused and have been tossing up engine swap/new car/mod current/just go to sleep, for a long time...pretty much since i got the car and my Ps.

i think for now (with the lack of money i have) i'll just see what i can do with differential building or swapping and add small mods to the Saturn, save up some money and see what's possible.

i'd really just like to meet up with some of you guys that are in my general area of Aus and chat and cruise.

[oldcolt2]

this maybe a stupid question, but will that intake manifold fit on a 4g32B?

[75wagon]

If you want to go faster, and don't want to spend much....
why don't you buy an automatic 2.6 GH Sigma, and put the motor and struts into your Galant.
Surely you could get a rusty GH for $50 to $250.

You need to get rid of the parking lights on your front beaver panel, they look shit.
You need headlights with a clear section in the back so the standard parkers can be used.
They might even still be on your car?
Have a look at your headlight plug and see if there are small globes fitted under them.








the type of twin carbs I have on my 4G32, same as standard just 2 of.

[75wagon]

I just had another look at your car and you do have then headlights needed.

I wonder why someone put those other lights there?
I bet the globes are blown.....

[driftforlife]

actually i put the bottom little parkers in because the main headlights aren't the original sealed beams, they're now halogen ones and yes they have a spot for parker lights to be plugged into but there's not enough room in the headlight housing area, the new lights use a weird plug thing that sticks out and with it in they don't fit.

yeah so i had to get the separate little square things, they look fine at night.

also, how did you manage to get two original carbys and fit them on?
and what are the original carbys? specs and etc.
because my carby has two barrels, secondary and primary and it doesn't appear to my to be original.
i'll get pics of it if you want.

[75wagon]

The original carby is a Solex Mukini, It had to throats.
Mine are 2 of the same.
They were standard in Japan (and America from photos I've seen)
They are few and far between.
I've seen 5 pairs with my own eye's. I've owned 3 pairs.
I have a spare pair but they are incomplete.
I have the specs of the original carb, I'll put it on here.

[75wagon]

The original carb size is 28-32
Solex Mukini 28-32DIDTA-9(M/T)
Solex Mukini 28-32DIDTA-10(A/T)

The twin carbs are same 28-32 but jetted down
Solex Mukini 28-32DIDSA-A1 (Twin)
They had a different cam and distributor advancemant setting...

Hope that helps is there anything else you wanted to know?

[driftforlife]

yeah, should i get the current carby reconditioned or buy a $50-$300 new/rebuilt one(or 2 for twins).
seen as my carby is stuffing up a bit.
i get like 10L/100km when i drive efficiently and there are flat spots all over the revs.