So tomorrow's the big day!
It's off to the engineer tomorrow.
I spoke to a bloke who's local to me and he gave me the run-around a little. Firstly he wanted a letter from Hyundai proving my engine came from an Australian market car complying with ADR's
odd, but okay, I got a hold of Hyundai and they were actually pretty helpful and emailed me the details the next day.
The next thing he requested was an unleaded fuel filler neck restrictor.
Back in the day, when leaded and unleaded fuel were available alongside each other, someone thought it'd be a good precaution to make sure stupid people didn't use the wrong fuel. To do this they made the diameter of the nozzles at the bowser different sizes, making the unleaded one smaller. Then they had a legislation passed that meant all cars sold in Australia had to have a restrictor in the fuel filler neck that meant stupid people couldn't physically fit the Super nozzle in the filler neck in their new fangled Unleaded car.
I wont wade into the argument that (to the best of my knowledge) in the 70's Japan already ran unleaded fuel hence why the Saturn 4g32 already had hardened valve seats from the factory (as I stated, to the best of my knowledge) but I digress.
I first looked into adapting a filler neck from another car. But after a look around the wreckers I noticed that the filler necks in most cars were one long piece that ran all the way to the underside of the car. Not only would this involve a bit of fab work on my behalf but it would have started to get a bit pricey. Pick n Paymore tend to charge by size for stuff I've noticed
But in my earlier research I heard about restrictors that simply plug in the end of the fuel filler. They're used on a lot of import cars to bring them into line with the ADR's. And in a stroke of pure luck, whilst poking around the wreckers I found on of the little buggers on an MX5! Booyah! and they only charged me $2 for it!
Only issue is they flare out the existing opening in your filler neck and glue the new one in. A lot of people complain that they leak and the mastic they use to fix them in breaks down with contact with fuel. All this so you can't use fuel that hasn't been marketed in Australia since the early 90's
But then the engineer started to get all funny about the bigger brake upgrade worrying that the master cylinder may not have had enough capacity to service GH Sigma front brakes and wagon drums. Okay, fair call. But then he wants me to determine the capacity of the master cylinder (not just bore size) and check it against the capacity of the pistons in the calipers AND the capacity of the wheel cylinders in the back!
How the fuck are you supposed to work that out!
I spoke to a few brake specialists too and they said there was no real way of doing it aside from pulling them all apart and measuring the volumes of them, but then that will be made difficult by the fact that you need to then subtract the volume displaced by the static pistons (that is, the space taken up by the internals of the wheel cylinders / calipers / master cylinder.
Oh, and he wanted it in writing from the manufacturers of these parts
To summarise, I called a different place this morning. Gave em the same spiel and they sounded way more helpful. When he asked about the brakes his response was "oh ok, that sounds cool", nothing about the unleaded filler neck, nothing about letters from parts manufacturers and was just a lot more positive on the whole thing.
One thing I did need to finish up was the connection for the charcoal canister. Up until now it'd just been venting under the bonnet.
So I scratched my head a bit and came up with an idea for something rough, but functional.
Essentially I picked up a 3/8th barbed threaded brass fitting from pirtek. The exact same ones I used to make my fuel fittings. I got one with the smallest diameter threaded end they had and got a socket (a long nut) to match.
I still had a bit of the aluminium tube left that i used in the connections between the TB and the airbox so I made another to go in the line, drilled a hole in it and gently hammered a flat surface for the fitting to seat on, cut the socket down to a thin nut, drilled a hole through the threaded end of the fitting then fitted the whole lot together with a bit of loctite and a split pin to make sure the nut wont come off and end up in the motor. That wouldn't be pretty
As I said, rough but functional.
It should be enough to keep an engineer happy, but it may come back out yet. We'll see.
So, wish me luck