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I have seen and heard of different ways to do a backyard roll on the guard lip. Anybody know one that works??

Problem seem to be that both the inner and outer are made from steel, whereas a lot of modern cars the inner is plastic.

Inner comes out with phillips screws..
Then the outer should roll as normal, just dont expect the inner to fit anymore
And you might wanna have some paint handy to touch up the cracks from rolling

Also can I ask why you want to roll the guards?


I was thinking of taking a cutting wheel to mine and slice it into sections, peel outward and glass over the top.. big wheels

PS: as a temporary thing.. a9x torana flares or similar later on when money comes in, even big plastic 4wd ones would work, just cut off the original wheel arch completely

I dunno about others, but my wheel/tyre/spring combo wasn't anything outrageous and I'd get scrubbing if going around a bumpy bend. Standard wheels are only 13" and I went up to 205/60/15 with 2" lowered springs to offset the wheel increase.
I took the front guards off and rolled just the top segment up flat. They then go back on without modifying the inners.

larger diametre wheels overall + lowering springs to compensate will definitely bring the tyre closer to hitting the guards.
The offset of the rim plays a large role too, even on thin ones.. the offset can cause the wheel to either come in and hit the shocks, or poke out and hit the guard


I personally have 235/45/17's on an 8" wide rim to fit on the front and with ~5mm clearance on the inside, the tyre sits right on the outer edge of the guard, and the centre of the rubber hits the front corner of the arch when turning about 20 degrees

I lowered mine around 60mm, futted Starion struts and brakes which add 3 mm per side to the front track, and fitted Pepperpots.

The guard bites into the tyre when I have a bit of lock on and hit a bump. Pulls the guard lip out of shape. I have to stop and use a hammer handle to get it back where it is meant to be. Doesnt matter about the paint. It is stuffed on both front guard rolls.

Yep, exactly the problem I had. As described above, from about the horizontal crease around the top until you reach the crease again. Problem solved. I just squashed them down with cloth lined pliers.

There's always this: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?item ... pe=PRODUCT

or this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWMKM6wcvEo or if you have a Ferrari http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJpuJaE- ... re=related

So mr aussiblue, what do you suggest for something more extreme?

rolled or not, the centre of my tyre hits the front bottom corner of the wheel arch, the back will hit the mudguard with a little more lock too, and the tyre outside edge sits flush with the outside of the arch when pointing straight.

current plan (mightnt happen for a while though) remove mudguard, remove entire arch with cutting wheel including chopping the front corner off.. replace with huge ass flares from a different kinda car
or.. remove mudguard, chop off front corner, then slice the overall arch in 5 or 6 pieces and peel it up and out, then glass over the top

Could be interesting

when you say its hite the back does this mean the panel or
inside the guard at the back (on the other side of this panel is your
right foot when driving)
its hitting the front because or castor angle is wrong correct that then
gently bash the hell out of the back
remember that when using hammers bigger is always better
cheers stealth

This thread should be called "but wheels and tyres with the correct rolling diametre". If your stock wheel is say 185/75 14 on a 6in rim with a rolling circumference or about 1990mm. If you want to run 17x8's you will need a 225/45 17 tyres for a rolling circumference or about 1992mm.
If you increase the rolling diametre you will foul on the body and suspension as well as you speedo being out.

Cheers
Jason

DragonCypher wrote: what do you suggest for something more extreme?

I did a lil research and hdt flares off a vc commodore will fit on with minor modification u can cut down everything but 15mm from the inside top of the wheel arch the whole diameter off the wheel arch and mount the flares off that. With the right offest rims u could safely run 8 inch fronts and 10 inch rears without scrubbing.

This is the bloke who suggested it he sells the flares for roughly $500 with all mounting equipment prepped and ready to be painted.

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