Help - Durable paint options

This section is for talk about anything to do with body repair and presentation.
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shuggy
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Location: Perth, WA

Help - Durable paint options

Post by shuggy »

Hey guys.

My paint job that im doing is going to be a tricky one, but im chasing some help with it.

The question is, What is the best paint that is super heavy duty and durable, when aesthetic dont matter? It doesnt have to look good!

I have begun sanding back and repairing the car, and i have laid down etch and primer over the majority of the car now so im looking for the next step.

Im going to use one of the 3 following paint effects - Im steering toward copper

Zinc - http://www.porterspaints.com.au/paints/ ... iquid-zinc
Rust - http://www.porterspaints.com.au/paints/ ... stant-rust
Copper Oxide - http://www.porterspaints.com.au/paints/ ... tina-green


Thoughts?
ozdusterdave
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by ozdusterdave »

Paint it the colour that you want it!
shuggy
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Location: Perth, WA

Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by shuggy »

I'm asking advice on what to lay under it
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bruggz351
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Location: Northern Rivers NSW

Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by bruggz351 »

Thats house paint. Isn't there an automotive equivalent??

But, to answer your question, I like the idea of the copper and green patina....
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ddt
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by ddt »

Shuggy wants a heavy duty paint for underneath the effect paint so that the panels are well protected. The effect paint will be put over the top.

I don't know very much about paints so I dunno :think:
But I guess you want a paint with low porosity like enamel or something? Or what about having a clear coat in the middle?
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bumpy
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by bumpy »

Not to sure what effect you trying to go for, but for me, etch repairs, and prime the whole car, and paint and clear, should be more than enough, but like i said, not sure of the effect your after. The copper oxide colour on the link reminds me of the rat rod look.
C_Fernance
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by C_Fernance »

I've used POR15 in the past. I'd recommend it highly. It's not UV stable and will fade over time, but in a use like this where it is there to protect the metal and be painted over it would be perfect.

KBS Rustseal is an Australian made version that is supposed to work just as good, and cheaper, however I haven't had the chance to try it personally.
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bruggz351
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by bruggz351 »

Keep in mind, that what you use, doesn't make any future repairs any more difficult than they have to be.
ie. if you use a very tough coating, it will be hard to sand and feather back for an effective repair.
Just a thought...

cheers
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shuggy
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by shuggy »

I've used KBS. Amazing stuff. But hard to paint over because its so hard to sand. if I just do a few coats of an industrial enamel that should be ok right? Not uv stable though right? Only thing in worried about is will the top Coat stick to it?
75glnt
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by 75glnt »

Machinery enamel :)

And as long as the rest is enamel. It should stick. You can't put acrylic on top of enamel... But you can put enamel on acrylic.
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shuggy
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Location: Perth, WA

Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by shuggy »

Sanded back my boot lid today that was green metalic and clear coat, but didn't sand all the way back, just roughed it up, reckon should be okay? Primer seemed to stick
ozdusterdave
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by ozdusterdave »

:facepalm: ^^^^ just do it
Gormzz
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Re: Help - Durable paint options

Post by Gormzz »

Essentially i prefer to sand all the clear off a "clear over base" sprayjob. Doesn't necessarily need to go back to primer or metal otherwise i would just paintstrip it all. Simply once you have repaired what you wanted to.. etch prime, then lay down a proper primer surfacer or high fill primer (i use high fill). Now as already mentioned.. if you really want to be thorough with your work then yes a rust proof such as POR15 or some sort of rust proof can be laid on the panel prior/before the primer surfacer/high fill gets laid (Can get rust proof from most paint shops or autobarn/supercheap). Then its simply sand down with 400+ till desired smoothness and lay your top coat and then clear it. That to me has been the most durable way of painting and seems to last plenty of time. Also for a longer laster panel.. add at least 3+ coats of clear to fight against those uv sun rays. End of the day it does come down to the preparation work with the repairs and getting them sealed up again before salty air or such can reach it.
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