wheel bearing change

[fridgeGB]

hey fellas,
Just lately one of my rear wheel bearings has been starting to get its moan on so i thought i had better change it lol. I fugured its probably worthwhile changing all 4 as im sure the others probably arent in much better condition. Ive never changed one before so im looking forward to doing it for the first time, but i dont know if that will change once i start doing them haha. Ive spoken to my old man about how to do it ( hes a really good old school panel beater and knows just about anything and everything) but hes currently living in japan so he wont be there to teach me how to do it when i do it this weekend. Hes gonna talk me through it when im doing it and has already given me a bit of advise, but i thought id ask here and see if anyone has some advice that might make the change a bit easier. thanks for having a read fellas and im looking forward to enjoying the purr of the G-Lant without it being smothered by the moan haha

[shuggy]

yeh i tried and had no idea how to do the rears hey, the fronts were piss easy.
il be watching this and learning too

ps its not the diff is it?

[panda]

Borrow or steal a workshop manual, & copy the relevant sections before you start.

[fridgeGB]

yeh i tried and had no idea how to do the rears hey, the fronts were piss easy.
il be watching this and learning too

ps its not the diff is it?

Yeah the old man said the rears are the pricks to change haha. He said to get them off they need to cop a flogging. I believe the tools of choice are a chisel and he even said an anvil will help do the trick. I'll post some pics of how it all goes for me

[81pw]

just pull the shaft out angle grind half way though the metal ring holding the bearing and then just press it out with a hydraulic press. then put new bearing in press it back in with new ring.

[fridgeGB]

hey fellas. thanks for the replys. Yeah the fronts were a piece of piss to change. The rears were almost just as easy, just a couple of lil extra things to do with taking the breaks off but yer got the shaft out no worries. Thought about attempting some butchery to remove and put on the new bearing with force but decided to play it safe and just get them replaced by a press haha. I dont know if id use one much but maybe once i had one i would, but does anyone know prices of a press for just small jobs such as this and does anyone else use them much??? thanks again fellas

[shuggy]

so how do you get the shafts out haha? do you have to whack that centre piece anti clockwise?

[fridgeGB]

so how do you get the shafts out haha? do you have to whack that centre piece anti clockwise?

mate all i did to get it out was pulled off the brakes ( just a few springs) then un bolted the 4 bolts that go through the back plate of your brakes and bolt on to your axle. you will see on the shaft where ur wheel bolts on a hole cut out. if u look through that hole and turn it, it will line up with the 4 bolts so u can get a socket through to undo each bolt. as soon as they are all of the shaft just pulled straight out. hope this helps

[shuggy]

cheers bud

[Rally_2.6LC]

Hey mate, good to see your wanting to learn more about your car, I did my rear wheel bearings last month.
Once you have pulled the axles out (i drained my diff oil first because I wanted to change it) buy the wheel bearings from Repco or somehwere (I had a brake specialist round the corner who I bought mine off) and then I took the axles adn bearings to the brake guys and said "can you take the old ones off and put the new ones on?" it cost me $60 for that. Dont know about the GB's (im assuming its GB from your pic) but my GC I needed a press to put the bearing on, and the guys at the shop said it was hard for them......so ide get it done properly. If you take the axles and bearings to them its cheap, and probably cheaper for cash.

In the bearing kit there will also be a metal O-ring style thing. first thing to do is look how far in the old seal sits before you pull it out....this will determine how far you have to tap the new seal in.
This is the tricky part. From where the axle slides into the diff around the outside of this opening is where the bearing goes. I used a claw hammer to lever the last one out......BUT BEWARE: no matter what you use to get it out be careful no to damage the section of the diff it sits in otherwise the diff can leak oil out the sides onto your brakes (oil+brakes = bad).
To get this new bearing in is a bit time consuming if you cant get it right. The bearing has to go in square. I found a bit of PVC pipe with a cap on the end that was the same diameter and used this and a rubber mallet to tap it in. Dont hit it too hard though, as if it goes in on a weird angle u need to pull it out with your fingers and try it again.

I had seen someone do theirs before I attempted to do mine, so yea get the manual and talk to ur old man, sounds like u should have it sorted.....best of luck.


Cheers Matt

[fridgeGB]

Hey shuggy. Like rally said about him changing his diff oil, wen u change each bearing one side after the other, if ur not replacing ur oil make sure u Jack only one side of the diff up so that ur oil runs to the opposite side of ur diff and not out onto the ground haha. Thankfully I didn't learn this the hard way and was told before I did it

[shuggy]

thought id put up pics of what i did today for future prospectors ;)

here is wheel off


take drum off (sometimes held on by 2 small screws)


undo the 4 bolts you can see thru that hole


pull axle out


and use a cold chisel to cut grooves into the retaining ring on the axle that is pressed on to expand it so you can pull it off

whack on new bearing and press on new retaining ring (about 9 tonne mine took) with a piece of pipe over the axle

whack grooves into the oil seal inside the axle housing


get screwdriver under the ring and lever it out


make sure not to damage the inner housing like this


place new oil seal on axle over retainign ring = not into diff.

reinsert axle after good clean up of everything and bolt those 4 bolts up - DONT FORGET to replace the almost non existent gasket

back off the brakes as much as possible


stick drum back on and do up 2 screws and wheel back on ;)

just an idea, can take diff out and check all bearings and can replace UV joints while your there. and replace rear drums/get them bored flat (mine were/are on a slight taper)

thanksss

[75wagon]

Very informative mate. This should be good for first timers.
I still recommend a workshop manual.... But the pics are good. Nice work

[shuggy]

yeh i didnt understand the manual hence the pics

[BAD-SIG]

Great read, it's a life saver! I have to change one of my seals (LH one) in my GE Sigma, which has the jap (banjo type) diff in it like the Galants, Lancers, etc. Looks much easier without having to change the bearings!

[shuggy]

If you dunt have to change any bearings then the seal is easy.

[BAD-SIG]

All done. Getting it all off was easy, the hard part was bolting up the three nuts and pressure washers that hold the brakes and axle to the diff housing. I had to remove both shoes to make it easier but it was still tricky. Took me about 3 hours!