im going clutch (and gearbox) shopping

[unique10]

gday guys, if some of you hadnt already seen in the other thread, i was driving up to albury and under boost my old clutch decided it had enough of its life and ended it - and my weekend holiday plans. so anyway i now need a new clutch.

the old one was always giving me grief to the point where sometimes under boost it would slip, including take offs and one really bad burnout trial. i plan on getting a new turbo soon and hopefully a new cam and a little headwork so more hp is defenatly on the cards. the cars not driven daily anymore so being aggressive dosent worry me as much.

so the question is, whats the clutch for me? brass button, semi button, feather button, organic button...i got no idea what im sayingl lol.

cheers guys.

[webby]

Wide or narrow? What sort of power are you pushing? What was the clutch that died?
Wideblock runs the same 225mm clutch as the '82-'87 Starion (both G63BT and G54BT), so you should be able to get something decent from the States.
If narrow, last I checked Exedy make brass button 4-, 5- and 6-puck clutches for narrowblock. Evo/VR4 clutches MIGHT work, I'm not sure.

[unique10]

The made 186kw at the wheels. It's a narrow block with a w57 supra 5 speed.

Found out after playing with it that I. Basically killed the gearbox. When I spin the input shaft it sounds like there's rocks in the box before it eventually locks. Called a guy for a rebuild and he reckons it would cost more than the car, so now I can pay 800 for a second hand one, 1400 for a reco and leave it and let it shit itself again or go better. The box broke because of the way I drive it I was told which wad release the clutch and boost. I done no clutch dumping, no rollbacks and I've been drag racing twice. I always knew toyotas were useless junk but my god. So what are my options now other than spending 3k on a tremec which seems like overkill for a 4cyl really. Please help guys. Oh yeah, gonna need a clutch for it too

Oh yeah, just in case I didn't state it. Toyotas are crap!

[Superscan811]

made 186kw at the wheels.

Fine, but what was the peak torque and at what RPM?


Questions...
1. What condition did you get the gearbox in?
2. How long has the clutch been slipping?
3. What unusual noises did the gearbox usually make?
4. How easily did it change gears, and had this changed recently?

The W5x series gearboxes, in GOOD condition, will handle double what you are putting out, even more if treated right.

Cheers.

[unique10]

It made peak power at around 4500 rpm, limiter was set to 5200 which I've maybe hit once when racing. Street driving I used to rev it to 4k when I was pushing it otherwise it just became too loud with the screamer and bov, and like I said never reved it hard and dumped the clutch ect so its not been mistreated. Guy I got it off said it was a reco box too and I believed him because it literally made no noise and shifted smooth as. Was literally overtaking in 5th on the freeway and kaput, game over.
Clutch was slipping for a while but I think it was more due to the power rather than the clutch wear itself.

[dvsfin]

well a bit of food for thought, I know a guy who races a 4age ae86 non turbo circuit car and he runs a w58 BUT he has blocked out 5th gear because he said it puts too much strain on the housing and can cause the box to blow, I don't know how factual that is or if it's just speculation, but it is just what he has told me

[webby]

A W57 isn't a Supra box, it's a late 22RE Celica/Corona box. Also found in manual 1G-powered Chasers and Mark II's.
Same thing, but not quite as strong and has different ratios.

You want a steelcase W58 from a non-turbo JZA80 Supra. Never kill it behind a streetable 2.6, and a low km example will cost you ~$400 less than getting the W57 reco'd.
Or, if you don't mind shelling out for a custom bellhousing (or getting an adaptor made up), you could buy an R154.
There are people out there running this trans behind 400hp JZ motors, so they're a bloody strong gearbox. A bit notchy, but as bulletproof a 5spd as you're gonna get without spending big on a TKO.
Both of those are favorites among the Toyota drift crowd. So you know that they can take a hell of a lot of abuse, as drifting's hell on gearboxes.

If you were wideblock I'd suggest a S5 RX7 box, as you can get a bellhousing from a pre-'89 petrol Mazda B2600 that bolts straight to the box and the wideblock Mitsu block.

[unique10]

If you were wideblock I'd suggest a S5 RX7 box, as you can get a bellhousing from a pre-'89 petrol Mazda B2600 that bolts straight to the box and the wideblock Mitsu block.

...lol, thanks for teasing. haha

i spoke to the owner before me today and he basically told me that its bullcrap that it blew, and just like dvsfin said, he reckons 5th gear would be the reason it let go. we discussed the possibility of going tremec or the r154 box but he said when he done the work the research showed that they were just too big for the tunnel. crap. also, he said he duggout the receipt and it was for 1100 from dellow for a w58 - so it was a w58, double crap.

[cheaterparts]

It made peak power at around 4500 rpm, limiter was set to 5200 which I've maybe hit once when racing. Street driving I used to rev it to 4k

The made 186kw at the wheels.

Oh yeah, just in case I didn't state it. Toyotas are crap!

lets look at this 186 kw x 1.34 = 249.24 Hp that will be closer to 300 at the crank
as 1 hp = 1 ft pound torque at 5252 rpm --- 5252 / 4500 = 1.167

300 x 1.167 = 350 ft pound torque

even running to 4 k that would put out high torque figures these will prob be higher than max power

you will need a fairly strong clutch in a narrow block
myself I would go for a 2 plate 7 1/4" tilton they will handle 500 ft pound + with ease

as for your gear box you need to think that the torque figures are more like a heathy V8
dont look at the power figures alway look at the torque is what kills your drive train

[unique10]

ok guys, its been a while. got a new box from toyrolla for $660 which believe it or not is the cheapest that there is, i done the waiting and shopping and this was it. also got a new clutch which gave me some issues and now after reading some old posts makes me angry. i called afew people and they said that what i had was the best i could get, if i wanted to get a better clutch i needed to go a bigger flywheel which meant bellhousing and blah blah. so i got my clutch remade which ended up being an excedy with a 4 puck plate.

tell me guys, i got my flywheel machined, and ive put everything back together. turned the car on and my clutch went to the floor. i remade the little bracket that holds the cable further out so its tighter, and what happens now is i can press it to the point where i think that the clutch fork cant move forward anymore to press the pressure plate, so the think cannot travel anymore and i still cant select a gear, did the f*wit who gave me the stuff give me the wrong bearing? is it machined too much? im tearing my hair out here. i have to pull it all out again. fml.