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Recently I bought a GJ GSR and I was driving it back to bathurst when the gear stick came off.. I screwed it back on thinking it just came loose then it happened again it came off.. Was this a common problem with the bw gearboxes and how do I fix?

weld it

Borg-Warner 'boxes of the manual persuasion tend to do that, the thread on the big plastic nut that holds the stick in gets pretty sad over time and won't stay done up.
Only solution I can think of is threadlocker, or maybe get the nut copied in alloy or something

The BW in my Cortina had a strap made from tin holding the gear stick into the box, held in with a self tapping screw either side of the ball housing.

It worked. And copped an absolute flogging.

ive seen one at the wrecker with a fairly crude twisted wire strap round it. seemed easy to do and very effective.

Looks like I'm getting steel cable ties next time I'm up in Bathurst.. She doing a hill climb on the 2nd of March up mountain straight at mount panorama

Yeah, those plastic nuts are ridiculous. BW should be shot.

oh, just looked , look up
parts_lunacy on ebay.

Stop pulling it

Looook jeebus.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Borg-Warner- ... 1dd&_uhb=1

Nice, that'll fix the the gear shifter - now what about the rest of the crappy gearbox?

Nice, that'll fix the the gear shifter - now what about the rest of the crappy gearbox?

Apart from the gear stick thing and bein a 4 spd I never had a problem with the BW in my Corty, and it was behind a very warmed up 250 x-flow. And punished. Though I must be forgiving on my hardware because I ran with a little BW diff too and never had trouble with it either.

cheers

geezer101 wrote:Nice, that'll fix the the gear shifter - now what about the rest of the crappy gearbox?

Funny enough I have a BW in my Sigma and it has done a couple of state race rounds ( IPRA ), some hillclimbs and sprints
the gear box has never missed a beat and the shifta ( which has a nice plastic thread , not a worn one ) has never come out

The only reason it went in was a clutch expoded at Sandown one meeting and near cut the bell housing off the Jap box it was running
the BW went in just to keep the car running while I built a better flywheel to carry a tilton race clutch and rebuild a narrow box with the larger wide box shafts

My findings the BW shifts smoother and is lighter to change gears than the Jap box -- as for them being week I'm guessing in a NA engine setup I was putting more HP than most through one , So I dont think they are completely week or crappy

bruggz351 wrote:Though I must be forgiving on my hardware because I ran with a little BW diff too and never had trouble with it either.

cheers

I must say the little BW diffs would not last in my car ether would Scorp diffs - I fitted up a H190 Datson diff and only ever broke one of them
a sheared off the output shaft on the Jap 5 speed at the same time
Hill Climb can be hard on running gear

I must say the little BW diffs would not last in my car ether would Scorp diffs - I fitted up a H190 Datson diff and only ever broke one of them

good job.

admittedly, my diff was open, and traction wasn't part of the deal.

Interesting tidbit if info, I had auto ratios, cant remember off the top of me head what they are, but in top at approx. 5000 rpm I wound off the clock. Over 210 klm/h. 1st gear could net me 75 - 80 klm/h at red line.

;sigh; I miss my ol' Corty now

yeah my scorp has auto diff, gets about 105 in 2nd.

bruggz351 wrote:Interesting tidbit if info, I had auto ratios, cant remember off the top of me head what they are, but in top at approx. 5000 rpm I wound off the clock. Over 210 klm/h. 1st gear could net me 75 - 80 klm/h at red line.

;sigh; I miss my ol' Corty now

More than likely a 2.78:1 in your cortina -- I was an apprentice motor mech in a ford dealership when the the first TC cortinas were around , plenty of power and speed a bit short on brakes though

A guy in Dandenong did a custom TC back in the dark ages with a 351 - I remember it was in a sort of pink colour he used the std hub caps
under the bonnet just looked like Ford had made it that way
it ran a std Tee bar auto so looked factory - the std sq badges on the side of the TC had a 6 and 250 - this guy even had badges made up with 8 and 351 so even they looked factory

I don't know what ratio is in the gsr but it does 3k rpm in 5th at 100kph

scorp sits 2.5k at 100 in 5th.
and 3k at 100 in 4th

Merv wrote:I don't know what ratio is in the gsr but it does 3k rpm in 5th at 100kph

just off the top of my head you would need about a 4.6:1 diff running those revs @ 100 ks

4.6 x .86 = 3.95 over all ratio --- whats the diff out of

I run a 3.89:1 and its a bit over 200 Kph at 7000 in 4th