Looks like rebuild time ...

[davetrees]

Driving home from the last rally I did (about 6 weeks ago) the Galant started puffing a bit of smoke from under the bonnet under load - on investigation it was blowing out of the breather filter on the catch can.

Drove the car for about 100km on Saturday to get it scrutineered for an event next weekend, and it did it again ..... only worse. Choofing pretty significantly out the breather, and from the oil cap when removed.

Ran a compression test on it tonight :
#1 60
#2 90
#3 120
#4 120

Didn't bother with a "wet" test - can't fix it before the weekend anyway - but I guess either rings in 1 & 2 are on the way out, or there's a headgasket leak between those 2 cylinders. No event for me this weekend - bugger !!

I had planned to properly refurbish the 1600GSR motor I have sitting in the shed over the summer anyway, but now looks like I'll have to move those plans forward & parked it up in the meantime. Can't see it being back on the road before the 2013 season

[krohny]

You can build a 4g32 in a half a day easily!
Get all the prep/machine work done first, grab a beer and your motor is done before the beer is!

[cheaterparts]

You can build a 4g32 in a half a day easily!
Get all the prep/machine work done first, grab a beer and your motor is done before the beer is!

1/2 a day - that a lot quicker than I could or would build an engine

[Superscan811]

1/2 a day - that a lot quicker than I could or would build an engine

I'll vouch for that


Cheers..

[davetrees]

You can build a 4g32 in a half a day easily!
Get all the prep/machine work done first, grab a beer and your motor is done before the beer is!

You might be able to .... I don't have the skills !

I have the rebuild planned already - just have to find someone to clean up the block & do the machine work etc at a reasonable price. (Head is already done, ready for the twin sidedraughts.)

It's not going to be anything particularly special ... just flat-top pistons, balanced bottom end & maybe a bit of weight out of the flywheel ... but built carefully so it's reliable. No major overbore or anything planned ..... I want to keep it as close to stock capacity as feasible (if it's within factory oversizse I can still run it in the original class even if slightly over 1600cc).

Unfortunately I have a few other bills to pay first, so will be a few weeks before I can get it underway ... and by the time it's done there won't be any more events this year, most likely.

[krohny]

Ah..!
I mean assemble in half a day, assuming everything is ready to go.. Just to clarify

[davetrees]

The rebuild is underway

Dropped the 1600GSR motor off this week to a guy I know through the car club who is a semi-retired mechanic - he will rebuild it for me for a fair bit less than "retail" as a cash-in-hand job

The plan is :
- Get the block tanked / cleaned (it's been sitting in a car in a paddock for years, but was still full of oil & coolant so should be reasonable internally)
- If the bores are OK, just a hone & refit the current flat-top 9.5:1 GSR pistons (with new rings & bearings of course)
- Get about 1-1.5kg taken off the flywheel
- Balance complete bottom end, inc. new HD clutch
- Fit the head I have already had reco-ed & mildly ported (still with stock size valves)
- 2 x 40mm Solex sidedraughts on port-matched Lynx manifold
- Cam still to be decided - will see how it goes with the stock GSR cam initially, or the aftermarket cam (of unknown spec) in my current engine
- Once it's built & run in, take it to PowerPlay for a proper tune / jetting if required

Should be good for a responsive & reliable 110-115bhp at the flywheel in that spec, I reckon.

Will report progress as it happens .... hoping to get out of it for <$2K

[A112H]

[davetrees]

Progress report today from the mechanic :

- Bores are within hone-able limits (won't need a rebore, pistons are all good)
- All crank journals are excellent - no signs of scoring or wear
- Block is currently sitting in a tank of petrol/diesel mix to loosen up any internal crud. Once it's clean, will check deck for straightness

Have ordered new rings, bearings & timing kit (chain/guides/tensioner) from here http://www.precisionintl.com/Engine.asp ... 537&Page=1 ... they seem to have just about everything in stock, and at fairly reasonable prices.

Have also ordered a new Exedy HD clutch - when it arrives, bottom end will go to PowerPlay for flywheel lightening (7.5kg -> 6.5kg approx) and full balance.

At this rate, it may even be ready for a shakedown at our last club rallysprint of the year (1st December) ... but not holding my breath on that .. yet !

[davetrees]

After both me & the mechanic being hellishly busy for a couple of weeks which has stalled things a bit, current progress :

- all the parts have arrived
- took new clutch kit, crank, flywheel, etc to PowerPlay (formerly Datrally) today for lightening & balancing
- bores have honed up nicely, pistons & rods are all in good condition
- block is all clean inside & out, repainted and generally looking schmick

I should get the crank etc back in about 10 days or so, then re-assembly can start

We are 99% certain it has never been apart since it left the factory in the late 70s. Motor was purchased as a 2nd hand Jap import in mid 80s, then used "as is" in a low-spec rally car that didn't do a heap of events until it was parked up in a paddock about 1993. I bought the rusted remains of the car a year or so ago. Fortunately, even though it hadn't been started for years it was still full of oil & coolant (not water) and it has preserved the internals really well.

Won't make the Dec 1st rallysprint, but that's no drama ... gives me the whole summer to get it nicely run in & tuned ready for next season. Should be up & running before xmas -- can't wait

[davetrees]

Crank/flywheel/clutch/etc now lightened & balanced.

Just have to pull the almost-new waterpump off the current motor (a job for tonight) & get it to engine builder and re-assembly can begin.

[davetrees]

Bottom half of motor is now back together ..... head / sump / manifold / carbs will go on in the next day or so, then we will fit it to the car (along with the 5 speed) probably 1st week of January

I've asked him to take some pics before he finishes assembling it.

[A112H]

Pics are always welcome

[davetrees]

Engine assembly was completed week before xmas ... has been pumped full of oil & is basically ready to install.

Just have to go to Autobarn tomorrow to pick up a few odds & ends (new spigot bearing which I forgot to buy with the clutch , new spark plugs, new thermostat).

Installation may even happen later this week, otherwise early next

We have decided to run it in using the stock manifold & 32/36 Weber off the current motor, because we know it will start easily with that setup. Will put the 40mm sidedraughts on & get it dyno'ed once I've put a few hundred kms on it and everything is bedded in properly. Similarly, will just run the stock 1600GSR cam (#6) initially & see how it goes before looking at something a little more agressive.

[75wagon]

Did you buy the parts separate?
The HD clutch kit I bought came with everything bundled up.
The part where I stuffed up is I haven't installed the reco'd bottom end and new HD clutch with recently rec'd head and new timing chain into my wagon

[davetrees]

Clutch kit came with new release bearing, but not spigot bearing (technically it's part of the flywheel, not the clutch assembly). Old bearing had to be removed from the flywheel to get it lightened & balanced, and it's literally a $5 part from the bearing shop. No biggie.

[davetrees]

First pics (excuse dodgy phone quality) :



Now fitted with this (~ 1kg lighter than stock) :


Just needs clutch & a few odds & ends fitted, and will be Installed in the car next week, with luck

[davetrees]

New motor & gearbox are in !! End result is great ..... it's like a completely new car (and hasn't even got the twin sidedraughts on it yet, until it has been run in etc)

10 hour day doing the changeover yesterday ..... everything that could go wrong, did

Pics & details to follow when I get a chance.

[75wagon]

I'm getting to the point that I need to fit a new motor to my wagon.
I'm debating exactly what i should get done to it.
The motor I have sitting here, has been decked, still has the hone marks in the bores. I have a new timing change kit, and heavy duty clutch.

What else should I do that will actually make a difference...

[davetrees]

Given it's a street/cruise car, I reckon your best "bang for buck" (in priority order) would be :

- get the bottom end balanced (crank/flywheel/clutch/pulley etc)
- up the compression slightly with GSR 9.5:1 or similar pistons
- some gentle head work to let it breathe better (just tidy up the ports a little, match to manifolds, unshroud valves a bit)
- make sure carbs are jetted right (do it on a dyno).

I wouldn't run sidedraught carbs on a road car ... all you will do is increase your fuel consumption. I wouldn't worry about lightening the flywheel like I have done for a road car, either.

[tandanus]

^^^^^^
+1
:-)
T.

[75wagon]

The engine builder/machinist that I have spoken to, assures me he knows how to wake the 4G32's up.
He suggests upping the compression to approx 10:1 and upping the oil pressure to go with it.

He say's he's done heaps of them over the years (he's almost 50ish). He built the 4G63 with 4G64 head in Laurie's GB race car (featured on here quite a while back (He owns Kotara Auto Services). Anyway, that GB hauls arse, I've seen it in action. It was enough to make me track down Laurie on the day, just to ask what was done to it and where it was done.

Everything you have suggested, sounds pretty much on par with what I'm thinking.
I was still going to be running the twin downdraughts and No5 cam.
I'm looking at building a world beater, but anything would be better then the bottom end I'm running right now. Frankly, it's a dog.

[davetrees]

A set of flat-top pistons would make it about 10:1 (GSR ones still have a slight dish). Shuggy still has several sets I think ?

Your's would probably be more "driveable" with a slightly milder cam than the #5, to be honest ...... would make more power lower in the rev range. Remember that the #5 was designed for cars running 13" rims and a 4.6 diff !

It may be worth taking a bit of weight out of the flywheel to let it spin up faster .... its doesn't cost much extra if you are going to get it balanced anyway.

[davetrees]

A few pics from engine/gearbox installation last week ......

Out with the old :


In with the new :



.... although a few things went wrong ...

Couldn't shift them with an ezy-out, so drilled the back two bolts out right through to the floorpan and put longer bolts in. (The pre-tapped holes to suit the 5-speed crossmember position cleaned up OK though).

In addition, the alternator pivot bolt is completely seized on the old block - can't even shift it with a rattle gun - so my good 85A alternator is still mounted on old motor (had to bolt my spare stock one on to get home) and the bolts holding the gearbox mount to the rear crossmember also sheared off .... gotta love 38 year old cars, hey ? All these dramas cost us heaps of time with the changeover.

Still, we got there in the end !


...and look - a 5 speed box without tunnel surgery


Have now put about 350km on the motor running in, and it's just brilliant. Super responsive & revvy, pulls hard through the gears (haven't taken it over 4000rpm yet) and a delight to drive. Only issue is the gearchange is a bit tight, but I think that's just due to the new pivot ball etc ... hopefully will free up a bit with use.

Will put another couple of hundred km on it in the next week, then it goes back to get the head re-torqued, tappets adjusted, oil changed, etc ... then the twin Solex sidedraughts go on. Can't wait

[davetrees]

Final phase completed today (other than a dyno session in the near future - has only been tuned by ear so far)

[Superscan811]

Final phase completed today (other than a dyno session in the near future - has only been tuned by ear so far)

I'd seriously look at getting a TechEdge wideband sensor/logger if you are planning to do the tuning yourself.
They are (relatively) cheap and easy to install, and you are able to log a lot of useful info.

I have set mine to log:
AFR
RPM
Vacuum
Throttle position
3 axis acceleration.

I have (but haven't used yet) electric senders to log:
Brake pressure
oil/water/manifold/head and exhaust temperatures.
oil pressure.

Currently trying to find a way to attach a "strain gauge" to the tailshaft, so I can calculate torque and HP as well.


BTW: Love the oil catch-can... Thought of using one of them myself..

Cheers.

[davetrees]

I have no plans to do any tuning myself .... have neither the time or inclination. I plan to take it to PowerPlay in the next few weeks and get them to do it.

I have no interest in datalogging etc either. I plan to just get it running reasonably right & drive it. (I'm only competing at club level, and not chasing fractions of a second per kilometre ... just out there having fun and don't really care where I finish.)

The most expensive part of my catch can is the filter on the top (about $10) The aluminium drink bottle was $2.99 and there is maybe $4 worth of garden irrigation fittings in it. The mount is an old fire extinguisher bracket I had floating around in the shed. Bottle is stuffed with stainless steel pot scourers to act as baffling to help trap the oil.

[Superscan811]

I have no plans to do any tuning myself .... have neither the time or inclination.

Not a drama, guess I'm a bit of a Tech Head by nature and prefer to do things myself, if possible.

The mount is an old fire extinguisher bracket

I thought it was a bottle holder for a pushbike.



Cheers.

[davetrees]

Reviving an old thread ....... I pulled the old 4G32 from the rally car to bits this week (it had just been sitting in the corner of the shed since we installed the new one).

Rings from #1 ...


Piston from #2 ...


Rings were broken in #3 and #4 too, although not as badly (just in 2 pieces).

I guess that explains the lack of compression and the oil smoke !

[JimmyG]

Bad pre det is a killer. Just dont let it kill your new motor!