Triton Turbo

[fishpost19]

Hey guys,

Been lurking around these forums for a year or so, only just signed up as a member. I don't have a Sigma or a Galant, but I do have a passion for Mitsubishi's. I own a 1988 2WD Triton at the moment, with the 2.6l 4G54. I am collecting some parts to throw a turbo on it. I already have turbo and exhaust manifold sorted, I've spent much time researching blow thru setups, and for a budget setup, this is the way I'm wanting to go. It's my first ever turbo conversion, so mainly doing it for fun. I will be upgrading the brakes before any real work is done.

I'm just after some answers for some questions I don't believe have been answered in these or other forums. I already have a Weber 34 ADM on and tuned, been running flawlessly for the last 3 years. Now I know about boost referencing carbs on blow through setups, what if I were to take the float bowl vent, and tap and thread a fitting to it, and connect it to the boost side of the intake. I cannot see how this wouldn't work? Would it not be the same as enclosing the entire carb in a pressure box? The float bowl would see the same pressure as above the throttle plate.

Now the turbo I've got is a TD04-13G. Some may say it's too small, but I believe it will be sufficient for the low boost levels I'll be running on the blow through setup. I'm looking to run a max of probably 8psi. It is an oil/water cooled turbo. Now another thing I'm pondering on is where to take the coolant from to feed the turbo? The coolant lines on the turbo are only small, I was thinking of routing the coolant from the bypass line off the water pump through the turbo then back out and let it continue on its way back along the driver side of the block around the back to the inlet manifold/heater(??) as it does now. Would there be enough coolant flow through the bypass hose to cool the turbo sufficiently? It would be convenient to take the coolant from here as it is on the exhaust side already.

I know the turbo has a restrictor in its oil inlet, do I take the oil feed straight from the oil pump? Is there an upgraded oil pump I should consider?


Other than that I'm pretty confident everything else will work.

Cheers guys
Lee

[fishpost19]

Ok, so after some more detailed research, I found out this TD04-13G is going to be too small. CFM and such it won't keep up with the 2.6l.

Looking for a T3 now...

[geezer101]

Is the turbo meant to be drip fed oil? Cordias are fed from a banjo fitting on the side of the head that's tapped into a oil gallery...

[amehel0]

you would want to pump a fair bit of oil so it doesnt churn and helps to keep the oil cool. chances are that the turbo galants were tapping into a pressure oil galley rather then a return one. i found that the efi conversion is really awsome and ill be upgrading my brakes and tyres before i turbo the next body i get. ive got a set of michelins but there still a light commercial tyre. my car was efid but with a aftermarket computer. goes much faster then a magna thats for sure.. i may run a turbo but the stopping and handling will be first.id really recommend doing a tuned efi system and then see if you want more in a car like that. but if you still do a turbo car setup make sure you turbo prep your carb in sealing and float jetting etc. then you can also run a fuel pressure regulator that is vacuum referenced which should sort your fuel but you will need to run a bit rich. then if all thats done you will find that the water pump if its a astron 2 has a whole lot of pressure and i would make the line as big a diameter then the turbo inlet if not larger. if your seals are good then return it to the water pump inlet that way your definently pumping water no mater the rpm because the fluid will flow even at 2rpm. the sump needs to be removed and have a fitting welded. thats an easy job but have sump gasket former. you should be able to get to it easily. make sure the oil returns to a high point in the sump to prevent churning in the line. you may want to install an oil cooler somewhere while your there.

[fishpost19]

So I ended up going a completely different direction with this build, I also bought a 1JZ Soarer with a single turbo conversion while I was building this Triton, and learnt everything I need to know about turbochargers.



I found some sort of cheap freshly rebuild Garret TB28 (originally told it was a T28) with a different (appears to be GT28ish) front housing with a V-band inlet and carbon seals for a draw through carb setup off a Datsun drag car, found a Sigma inlet manifold and the old man had some SU carbs in his shed that I was going to do a draw through setup with. In the end I ditched the Weber and the fuel tank from the advice of a mate who had built a few LPG turbo setups, and just went straight LPG and blowing through a Impco 425 gas carb and boost referenced Aussie B2 converter with a big eBay intercooler painted black squeezed behind the grille. Made my own 3 inch exhaust without any mandrels, all "lobster" style, with a hot dog and big straighthrough muffler which dumps before the diff and is plenty quiet enough for me thanks to the Garrett mechanical muffler mounted in the engine bay

I found a US VW specialist who makes a piggyback ignition controller called CB Black Box for a few hundred bucks. Wired straight into the factory hall sensor dizzy, locked the advance and set the dizzy to roughly 60 deg BTDC and the CB sees the signal, knows this signal is at 60deg, then retards it to get the desired timing anywhere in the rev range just like a conventional crank angle sensor and EFI, obviously not quite as accurate. Has an onbard MAP sensor good for 40 psi boost from memory, simple 4 wire connection, and a vacuum line to the unit. Bosch GT40 I had lying around provides plenty of spark, and some big eagle leads and fresh plugs prevent any sort of misfire which LPG absolutely hates.

Made 240rwhp on its first rough tune at 10psi, the Repco generic "heavy duty clutch kit" I had installed years ago kept slipping with 4 times more power. Dialled it back to 8psi and had fun for a couple of months. Installed a cheap Exedy cushion button clutch kit, made 277rwhp at 15psi but the boost pushed the carby off and ripped the bolts through the cheap eBay carby adaptor I had installed and blew a gasket out. Replaced the adaptor with a stronger one without cutouts for the adaptor plate nuts. While i had the carb of I went ahead and ripped the manifold off and ported out the original 2 barrel orifices, was going to match the intakes but seems Mitsubishi got it right at the factory and gasket/manifold/head ports were within 0.5mm of each other. Have not had another dyno run yet but pulls ridiculously for what it is, and is lighting up the 215s in the back easily with a welded diff in 3rd gear. Sees full boost around 3000rpm. Spins the tyres in the wet anything over quarter throttle at 2500rpm in 3rd. This thing is sooooooo torquey.

I need to keep tinkering with the Impco carby and boost reference hoses, it runs a bit richer than I'd like on cruise, it is rich everywhere off boost, even with both mixture adjusters fully wound in and leaned out, but it leans out on large throttle applications as it comes on boost, put your foot flat below 3000rpm it'll lean out and not do much, so need to roll on the throttle as it comes onto boost if you're low in the revs. Once at full boost it will hold perfect air-fuel ratios as it revs out. The gas carb is obviously too big for a 2.6, bought it off an old F-truck V8.

Now to see how long the gearbox lasts. I really want to just crack 300rwhp and leave it at that. No idea if the manifold porting helped at all yet. And I never did upgrade those brakes (yet), and manual steering with a small steering wheel and slow ratio is fun. Power steering is coming soon.

I'll leave you with a quick teaser to show how it accelerated on half throttle when it was first tuned before I replaced the clutch. Was running about 9 to 10psi here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMo1y84w6FI

[fishpost19]

Aaaaaand I just realised I probably shouldn't have repled to this post in the 'Engine' section.

Will make a new thread in the Ute section

[brichman]

This is the best post i've ever seen. You've told me how to fix all my problems with ignition in my LPG turbo sigma wagon! Thanks heaps