Sigma-galant.com

Can I get a mild re-grind, slap the cam back in place and drive away happy. Or is there more involved?

It won't have that much impact to HP but it's a start if you are chasing it. Pull the head off it and clean up the ports as this will help it perform better. Use a bigger carby from another Mitsubishi (well, bigger jetted anyway) like a 1.8 litre non turbo Cordia or a Nimbus. If I was going to go back to building another Colt I would use a small set of bike carbies on it, an adjustable cam gear, a nice set of extractors and a 2" stainless steel sports system.

What about an adjustable cam gear? Do I need one? I'm not having much luck finding one for the 4g32.

crappycolt wrote:What about an adjustable cam gear? Do I need one? I'm not having much luck finding one for the 4g32.

is it a chain driven cam or a belt

I can redrill the 4G32 chain drive sprocket do give and extra 8 dowel holes 4 advanced and 4 retarded in 1 deg steps

Belt drive. That's a bloody good idea drilling the gear. Can't see why it wouldn't work with the belt drive too.

Here's one that cheaterparts did for kodos (a old member). I bought it off kodos with the copy of the No.5 cam that I am now running in my wagon.

crappycolt wrote:Can I get a mild re-grind, slap the cam back in place and drive away happy. Or is there more involved?

Without getting into any discussion about the black arts of tuning and parts matching. The actual installation of the cam is as you have asked. Unbolt the one that's in the motor, replace it with the one you are installing (making sure the crank to cam timing remains the same).
Then you have 2 things you need to do
1. re adjust the valves.
2. rotate the motor by hand to make sure the valves don't hit the pistons (even if I have the timing right I still do it, call me over cautious). Of course this will happen at the same time as re adjusting the valves (unless someone knows a way of adjusting them without rotating the crank).

Dave...

That looks awesome Dave, thanks. Yeah, I'm a strong believer of double checking everything by hand. I remember when I was a kid my uncle had some work done on a head off a Gemini, hit the key and bent the valves.

these are the gears I redrill ,( both 4g52/54 and the chain driven 4g32 ) quite a few punters on the site already use them -
I still have the specs on autocad and the rotary table is always setup to do this work

crappycolt wrote:Belt drive. That's a bloody good idea drilling the gear. Can't see why it wouldn't work with the belt drive too.

true I've never looked at the belt drive gear but no dout it would set up just the same on the drill

Yep, can't see why the same treatment wouldn't work on a stock belt drive sprocket...

how much for these cheater parts?

leigh7005 wrote:how much for these cheater parts?

Same price they have been for 5 or more years $ 45 + postage ( and they use to go in a 500 gram express postage bag ) -- they were done as a change over but I will have a few good second hand 4g52/54 spockets that I can drill so theres no need to suppy me with a gear

If you need a 4g32 chain drive gear it's the same price but you will need to supply me one I didn't collect the smaller motor so didn't have a stock of them

Are you still doing the re-drilled adjustable cam gears cheaterparts? i need to get a 4G32 done

I am looking for a drilled cam gear for a 4g52 chain drive.

I see these are an old post but are they still available?