plumbing 4g63 DOHC heater hoses in a rwd

[orangelancer]

Hey all,

the 4g63 is all back together and almost ready to go into the car. a few more final steps before it goes in. the current hurdle is the water pump. got a rwd one off a starion but now i need to either block the hole on the back of the water pump for the heater hoses OR find a way to run the heater hoses. what is the easiest way to run the heater hoses?

the other issue i have is re the front thermostat but all i need to do with that is cut the jay racing relocation kit and weld it on an angle. ill need to find someone to do that as i dont want it to leak

[geezer101]

I'm not 100% familiar with the DOHC but you might be able to use the external water gallery from any of the belt drive engines and bolt it up in the factory route around the block to the back of the engine, and into the heater inlet pipe (one of the outlets will need to be blocked on the pipe). Nobody talks about hooking up the heaters on these conversions

[Tj.]

^ I used one of these too. I swiped it out of an Express Van and it went in without too much fuss.

My engine swap was in a Galant so the CAS (assuming you're still running one) got in the way of the hole in the firewall for the heater hoses.
Thankfully (sort of) my car had A/C in a prior life so it had some convenient, albeit roughly made holes on the drivers side so I plumbed it through there. Although that was really making things hard for myself.

I too used the Jay racing water outlet and stuck both the top and bottom half of the stock thermostat housing on. Sits at a doofy looking angle but worked fine and sorta pointed at the radiator.



One last thing, When i used the Starion pump the pulley didn't line up with the crank pulley when bolted straight onto the pump, I had to get a spacer made. I could possibly have used a starion crank pulley but like I said, I made things difficult for myself.

[Superscan811]

I was also under the impression that if you used the front water outlet, you also needed to restrict the front water port holes in the head, to allow for correct water flow. Just something I remember reading a while ago..

Cheers.

[C_Fernance]

I've heard that too, but I didn't notice any issues with mine having not done it.

For me it was a case of I'll keep an eye on temps, etc and if I have trouble keeping it cool I'll pull the head and do it. Never ended up needing to do it.

[ryzor]

I would have though it would be easier making up a flange and pipe running from the back of the engine, round under the intake manifold and relocating the thermostat somewhere under the intake manifold?

[Superscan811]

I would have though it would be easier making up a flange and pipe running from the back of the engine, round under the intake manifold and relocating the thermostat somewhere under the intake manifold?

The POSSIBLE issue with that is an air pocket could accumulate in the front of the head because the engine slopes down towards the back of the engine. This COULD cause the No:1 combustion chamber to overheat and possibly crack etc...

Some type of air bleed in the front of the head would help but again, if you are going to that level, you may as well put the water outlet on the front of the head.


Food for thought..

Cheers.

[Tj.]

I was also under the impression that if you used the front water outlet, you also needed to restrict the front water port holes in the head, to allow for correct water flow. Just something I remember reading a while ago..

Cheers.

There are recommendations from jayracing and all over projectzerog to do this and it's pretty simple to do which makes me a little embarrased to admit that I didn't do it on my engine There were no noticeable issues by reading the guage and checking water but in reality that doesn't tell you anything.

The motor will be freshened up when the car is resurrected so I'll investigate then.

[magallaher86]

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