Ideas for a 1600

[gaPhil]

Hey guys

I've recently obtained a 1600 (4g32) I want to put in my GA.

It will be going with a 45mm weber and 5 speed.

I'm after an idea of what work i can do to it to get it going a little better, with a budget of up to around $1000


Cheers
Phil

[tandanus]

If you do nothing else, get it ballanced
And when youve finished setting it up, get the 45 (rather large unless for track work) set up on a dyno properly (= $$)
T.

[colta51]

deff get it ballanced and maby cam and springs? but better coil and plugs will help a bit too..

[kris85]

- bore cylinders to 81mm
- 4g37 81mm pistons
- mitsubishi works cam 5
- double valve springs (can use toyota 2e valve springs that have been cut down to correct length for the inner springs)
- double valve retainers
- 39mm intake valves
- 32mm exhaust valves
- 4g37 8v sohc roller rockers
- 3 angle valve job
- port and polish
- custom 81mm bore copper head gasket
- full engine balancing
- twin weber dcoe 45 with 3" velocity stacks (relocate hydrovac)
- msd ignition system

and you can get 160hp easily with a proper dyno tune... has been done here in the philippines... also, you might want to mate the engine to a 4-speed trany + 4.2 diff combo for that faster response...

cheers,
kris

[colta51]

that might blow the budget a bit...?

[gaPhil]

To say the least ha ha.

Maybe a bit of currency confusion there?

[pistorf]

Phil,the key to a good performing 4G32 is the head,cam and induction. Years ago when Gosford Dyno built my engine,they skimmed the head .75mm,cleaned the ports by trimming the valve guides flush and smoothing out any humps and bumps. I ran a #5 cam and twin 45mm Webers and a set of works extractors.the #5 was a bit of a dog around town,but came on strong when it did.Look at a smaller cam and be careful with the amount of lift,because ,with the head machined,you lose a fair bit of clearance.
Find a good auto electrician and get your distributer regraphed to suit the engine. My 1600 put out a genuine 120hp at the wheels at 7000rpm.
Good luck with it.

[BlueThunder]

My old 4G32 engine had these mods:

- twin Dellorto DHLA40-H carburators from an Alfa Romeo
- the cylinderhead was modified with a fast camshaft and polished valves as wel as new valve guides, the cylinderhead is extra planed(?) for a higher compression.
- 1 of the silent shafts is disconnected except for the one of the oilpump, this ons is modified to give 3,3 bar oilpressure instead of 2 bar. (readings on the oil pressure gauge were normal tho :s)
- the whole engine has got a revision ( new bearings etc. etc.) and with 2nd oversized pistons.
- the engine was limited to 6000 rpm because of an electronic ignition from a Lancer Turbo: the engine went easily to 7000 rpm but then the bearings of the silent shafts got damaged hence the modification

According to the previous owner it had about 120 - 130 HP but I can't confirm that. Never had it dyno-tested.
This engine was coupled with a KM132 gearbox.

Don't know if it can help you...

Cheers
Sven

[colta51]

Phil,the key to a good performing 4G32 is the head,cam and induction. Years ago when Gosford Dyno built my engine,they skimmed the head .75mm,cleaned the ports by trimming the valve guides flush and smoothing out any humps and bumps. I ran a #5 cam and twin 45mm Webers and a set of works extractors.the #5 was a bit of a dog around town,but came on strong when it did.Look at a smaller cam and be careful with the amount of lift,because ,with the head machined,you lose a fair bit of clearance.
Find a good auto electrician and get your distributer regraphed to suit the engine. My 1600 put out a genuine 120hp at the wheels at 7000rpm.
Good luck with it.

thats wat im after^ 120hp but im using twin dellortos too.. not sure wat the potential of a 45 webber on its own is?

[colta51]

cam and springs from rpw is around $400 and there extractors are about $200 these wiv yore webber and new plugs and leads and wiv the left over budget get the dizzy recurved and you shood be on a winner!
ps. i use splitfire plugs thay made a huge diffrence! (TP6C)

[colta51]

dont no if you hav noticet yet but the 1300 radiator is smaller than a 1600 one.. you willl need to change it!

[gaPhil]

Cant be much in it? Ive got a 1600 one as well + the 1300 one is not far off crapping itself lol

[DanTurboLancer]

How much do you know about the history of the engine mate?
Many Kms? Hard life?

Are you thinking about rebuilding it or just drop it in and drive it for awhile?

If you dont want to rebuild, i wouldnt put a big cam in, it takes away low down street drivabilty, and it means you have to rev it hard to get the use out of the cam, and hard revs on a bottom end that might be worn or on its way out will mean stress.

Twin side drafts would be cool,
but at around $600 each carb (new), plus manifold, plus afew hundred for tuning,
I think you would get the best value for money out of the carb you have now and invest in getting it set up properly.

Just my thoughts,
Get your Flywheel machined (dont worry about getting it lightened, unless you are going to put a bigger cam in)
Buy a new STOCK clutch, you wont need an over kill brass button or anything like that.

Get your Radiator checked out, and check if the water pump is ok. Fit new Rad hoses if they look abit sus.

Get a quote for changing to Electronic ignition. (but there is nothing wrong with correctly set up Points)

New engine mounts.
New plugs and Leads.
Oil and filter, Air filter.

Good brand name Extractors,
full exhaust system (the other guys would be able to recommend a suitable pipe size!! Im thinking 1& 3/4???)

Ive never played with one of those motors, Are the Rockers adjustable???
(If they are it may pay to get them checked and adjusted)


Then its upto you, you can do some home tuning and have a play, or there is an old fella John.... that has a workshop at Broadmedow and he is apparently the carby tuning Guru.


That should soak up your money.
It wont be a big horse ower job, but it would be reliable and nice to drive, and a good power increase from your current 1300

[gaPhil]

I do like your ideas Dan and I'm startin to think less is more for what I want.

Don't know alot about the motor except it ran twin side draughts and it was rallied so prolly had a hard life. The guy couldn't remember anything about the internals so I'm not sure if the cam and springs etc are stock or not.

Im gettin this 5 speed in and takin my time with the 1600 so I wanna get a plan before I do anything/ waste money

Cheers for the input!

[A112H]

Everything mentioned above will suit your needs, some is over kill, some might be a little less than what you want. Main thing is make a plan, take your time making the plan and once you have a focused idea on what you want and how to get it, stick to it.
Take your time gathering all the parts you need, choose carefully, if you are in no hurry and have a strick budget it is always worth waiting for bargains to pop up than racing out for full priced items. If you ask around older performance shops (those that remember there are other engines beside 5.7 Chevs) you might find they have a few NOS bits paying around that you might get quite cheap and keep and eye on eBay, as the AUS and US dollars so close these days it is often cheaper to get NOS stuff from the US than second hand stuff locally.
Once you have all the parts you need, and there will always be something you forgot, take you time building your engine or find a builder with a good rep.
Good luck, I look forward to seeing this unfold.

[DanTurboLancer]

Sorry Phil, i know my ideas arent all that exciting, but as you said
Sometimes less is more.

And GalatGTO has the idea,
do all your research, do lots of planning, then stick to the plan.
Somethings can change, or even have to change as you go,
but generally once you start down one path, then halfway through change your mind,
thats when costs blow out, and you end up doing things 2 and 3 times.. And paying that way too.

For the budget you have for now, getting the engine in the car, and running reliably would be what i would concentrate on.
Then start saving for upgrades.

You have been doing it right so far, in building up the brakes and suspension

Oh and dont throw out your current Motor, G/Box you never know when you may need them.

And dont use your current tailshaft for the 5speed conversion if it has to be shortened or changed at all.

Only if you have to make changes to the Tailshaft,
Grab a Sigma tailshaft from the wreckers, they are stronger and easy to find so cheap.

Gibsons at Edgeworth can shorten, put new Unis and whatever flange and yoke you need. and balance.
But it will be afew hundred.
But that will save you modifying your tailshaft so that you can use it if you ever need to refit your stock driveline...

[75wagon]

And dont use your current tailshaft for the 5speed conversion if it has to be shortened or changed at all.

Standard tailshaft bolt straight up to the 5 speed, as the boxes are the same length. Only Auto tailshafts are different lengths.

[davenq]

Bloke,......I did a killer roadtrip to get a 1600 and 5 sp...(turned out to be a 4 sp. ) for my G.B. have now got upgraded brakes (discs not drums) cool rims , (mini ralleys)...to try and bring my Galant into the 80's......depends what you want ....mine ,......keeping it semi original with a slight power upgrade 1400-up to 1600 ...but you do what you want to do.....cheers ...Dave