4G32 Mitsubishi Distributor vs. Bosch Distributor

[VGJONO]

Im thinking of swapping out my distributor temporarily from the Mitsubishi one to the Bosch one to try and see if it resolves some problems im having. Anybody have experience with both and can recommend which one is better if they differ performance wise at all? Ill be going ahead with the swap tomorrow if i dont get any answers as anything is better than nothing at the moment

Cheers
VGJONO

[Scorpma82]

Not a clue i'm sorry to say........but if the Bosch unit is brand new.....I'm going to say that it will be marginally better than the original 30+y/o Chrysler/Mitsubishi version

[75glnt]

Mines a Bosch dizzy no issues yet

[VGJONO]

sadly scorpma it would be second hand but with new points, rotor button and condensor.

75glnt, check again, yours is a Mitsu dizzy

[75glnt]

You sure??

Maybe that's why my xr3000 ign doesn't work it's setup to suit Bosch

[VGJONO]

might be haha, your rotor button is the same as this correct?

[geezer101]

They are a direct swap and one isn't any better than the other. If the cam lobes for the points are worn or the shaft has play in it, it won't operate at its best...

[75glnt]

Yea except I have a solid contact on the front. Not 3 small ones

[VGJONO]

They are a direct swap and one isn't any better than the other. If the cam lobes for the points are worn or the shaft has play in it, it won't operate at its best...

Define play geezer, are we talking side to side play or up down and everywhere play??

Cheers
VGJONO

[geezer101]

Side to side play (lateral). It will do funky things with dwell angles and can also mess with rotor/distributor cap contact.

[VGJONO]

Ok so being able to spin it left or right by a cm or so isnt bad

[geezer101]

Ok so being able to spin it left or right by a cm or so isnt bad

With it installed? If so there is something really wrong. It should feel smooth between lobes when the points aren't 'breaking'. Just out of curiousity, what ignition glitches are you experiencing?

[VGJONO]

high rev hesitation and misfires
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PHfaPkw3F4

[geezer101]

What's your coil like? Coils have a tendency to exhibit misfire and ragged running when they're tired. An oil filled coil is probably "o.k." for 10-15 years of normal driving.
Get a new coil: I'd recommend a Bosch GT40'T' coil -

...and also hook up a dwell meter and check what the distributor is like - it will give you a hint of what the distributor is doing as the dwell angle will jump about the place instead of being more of a constant reading.

[VGJONO]

Coil is 6 months old
points even less, leads are less than 6 months old, same with plugs

[Jordan1249]

my bosch is alright never had a problem with it other then me not maintaining points cause im lazy hahah

[VGJONO]

Ok so being able to spin it left or right by a cm or so isnt bad

With it installed? If so there is something really wrong. It should feel smooth between lobes when the points aren't 'breaking'. Just out of curiousity, what ignition glitches are you experiencing?

Bit late but got a video of what i was talking about
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FndoG9nuAeI

[geezer101]

Doesn't look like any lateral play but yeah, something is definitely up with your distributor.

[VGJONO]

yeah, thinking worn dizzy gear, so im swapping it out to see what happens, also found this this morning
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOHv-krNSbk

Normally whenever my tacho plays up i check my condenser and it seems to have rattled loose, take it off, clean the area and put it back on and i have no problems so few more things to try

[geezer101]

Your idle is a little on the high side VG - or is this the accuracy issue you mentioned? The tacho needle jumping around indicates there is something causing a misfire. When you get this ignition fault nailed down your engine should run sweet

[VGJONO]

yes, it is idling on the high side, cant find the idle screw on the carby, think its been covered up by a bracket so have to pull it apart and go hunting but in saying that, the idle was correct when i put he carby on and had it run perfect for a good while.

Another thing someone mentioned too me was the vacuum advance diaphram might not be holding vacuum, going to test this shortly

also have a Bosch Distributor ready to go was all i had spare so i will put it in, if all goes well it should have less movement in it and will be replaced shortly with Electronic ignition. of which then the bosch dizzy can then go on my sisters Motor of which is to be rebuilt in the coming weeks

[VGJONO]

Just tested to see what volts the Coil is getting

5v with ignition on but engine not started and around 10v with the engine started, this doesnt seem right to me, should be more around 6v off and 12 volts on correct?? anyways new ballast resistor is at the auto shop, will go pick it up now and chuck it in before i go ripping out distributors (save me some time to make it shinier for tomorrows track session)

[C_Fernance]

I was under the impression that the resistor dropped the voltage whilst running to around 7 volts. This meant the the points and so on lasted longer. On starting/cranking it allowed a higher voltage through to provide a stronger spark for easier starting.

[VGJONO]

I have read that a few places also

[LukeAussie]

Hey Jono,
I've been meaning to reply to this one for a while... I normally check the forum at work (I'm too lazy at home!), but they disabled YouTube (yay!) so I couldn't check your vids. The dramas you're having are actually quite similar to some stuff that's going on with my gal at the moment.
The funky, bouncy idle is very similar and I've also replaced all the components, leaving the only remaining thing the actual dizzy itself. I've been planning to see if I can get an auto sparky to maybe put on some new or re-con bushes to reduce the play, as I reckon that may be the cause of some of the erratic idle. When you put a timing light on the car, mine mostly sits at the correct 5deg btc, but every so often oscillates back and forth a bit, so I'm thinking it could be play in the dizzy.
My issues are compounded though by a potential vacuum leak. When the car's cold, I'm having dramas getting power between the loud pedal and the wheels, that clears up a bit when it's warm (could be a choke setting I haven't figured out yet), but then I also get a similar lack of power under acceleration, though for me it doesn't just happen at high revs, it happens at any (it's great fun when moving in slow traffic in low gear and the car starts to shudder!). I also noticed every so often, the revs drop completely (like the car is starved of fuel and is about to die), and then come back.
I decided to disconnect the vacuum advance, and apart from the car running less than optimally without the advance unit, the problems of dropping revs disappeared. So I'm sure it's a vacuum problem, but just haven't worked out what yet!
I did get the carbie done a year ago, as the accelerator pump had pretty much died, but I'm not sure all the settings are back and correct. The carbie is one of the few things I don't know much about... any tips or ideas? Most of the other gear is new or recon, including the vacuum advance...

Oh yeah, I still have to look for that transistor ignition circuit article... I think it's at my dad's place. I'll try to hunt it down for you too! Can't remember which thread that was on though...

Anyway, that's my venting over for tonight... hopefully I'll get more time to muck about on my car in the coming months. I just changed roles at work, and will be home much more often now

[geezer101]

Checking the vac advance on the distributor is the same as doing a check on the vacuum secondaries on a mikuni carby - put a hose on it, suck on the other end and see if it's holding vacuum. If you're not getting ignition advance, another cause could be the balance weight springs have snapped. When they break the ignition goes haywire. It's impossible to set base timing as you don't know where the advance is already sitting in the distributor

[VGJONO]

im just doing a quick reply here, will do a proper reply later (busy/lazy at the moment) but interesting thing i found was my Vacuum advance is completely locked up.

Secondly, i have gotten the Bosch dizzy ready to go but i have found what i assume to be a wire from the base plate (where your points are attatched to) to the dizzy housing is no longer connected (seen this in a diagram) but when i inspected this wire it almost felt like a fabric this is the only thing keeping me from fitting the new dizzy at the moment.

[geezer101]

The wire is more than likely oxygen free braided/plaited copper (it needs to be super flexible or it would hinder the vacuum advance mechanism or just fail from continuous movement)

[VGJONO]

well finally swapped in the Bosch distributor, and wouldnt you know it, suddenly the bloody thing works great
So happy to finally have this problem sorted, now to fiddle with the timing and get it perfect, have it set currently at about 6-7 degrees, thinking that i might bump it up a few degree's and run 98 in it, might be common knowledge to some but ive never tried doing that, so we shall see what happens.

[masood11]

igh Quality Mitsubishi 4g32 Engine ... need to no more specification and information about this one...