I have taken on a project to swap an EVO 2 4g63T into my LA lancer.
I actually purchased an EVO 2 engine that had been put into a L300, so the intake had already been modified to front facing and the flywheel seems to be the correct size for RWD.
I modified the thermostat to feed a hose upward so i can run a BMW inline thermostat at the front of the head.
The thing i keep reading though is that the turbo fowled on the steering box, has anybody done this type of mod before and know if this is true? if it is then what is the best solution?
Im sure most aftermarket high mount manifolds will bring the turbo up well above the steering box. not sure if it would then foul the bonnet as they are obviously designed for east/west at the front of the bay but thats the first port of call i would go to for a bolt on easy solution.
I'd mount the turbo behind the rear axle personally.......u can run the turbo at a lower temp on the same boost as a high mount turbo, making it more efficient...
Ud also eliminate the amount of heat generate right next to the brake master cylinder, and ull retain alot of the engine bay room too
Thanks for the response guys. Although i love the idea of a rear mount turbo it comes with a host of other problems i would then have to solve, so I will probably look for a top mount manifold.
I'll keep you guys updated with the build as I go. Any more information or ideas are welcomed
There is no manifold that fits ! All the after market ones dont clear the bonnet
The best "option " / way around it would be what jimmy g did on his galant (best option is look at his thread)
But he used the factory manifold and made a "adaptor"to high mount the turbo
No offense jimmy but best backyard fix ever ! and i dont hand out complements to often!
But in that case Kudos!!
Anyway check it out
Cheers stealth
Engineering the unfair advantage !
Red bull , fuelling the fastest race cars on earth !
ok so the flywheel and starter motor that came with the engine dont match up. measured the flywheel at 270mm tooth to tooth and the starter look like its for a 300mm flywheel.
sooo.... does anyone know what size flywheel a 4g32 uses?
Ok so let me just run down what im doing now and anyone chip in if you have any information or advice.
the flywheel on the engine is 7 bolt 270mm and the gearbox im using is from a rwd 4g63 sigma which is set up for 280mm flywheels.
So swapping the ring gears over seems like a good choice. however the rwd 4g63 ring gears dont fit the evo flywheel. I will have to order one in from china.
So the ring gear sizes are as follows:
EVO 2 Flywheel: I.D=245mm, O.D=271mm, teeth=106
sigma RWD 4g63 flywheel: I.D=256mm, O.D=282mm, teeth=110
M.T120 Van 4G41: I.D=245mm, O.D=281.6mm, teeth=110
So the ring gear from the old van should fit onto the Evo 2 flywheel and make it the correct size and tooth count to match the starter motor almost perfectly. If any one is wondering the part number it is MD000612.
Currently waiting on a reply from a china supplier.
Hi, I had previously put a 7 stud RVR motor into a l300 and used a later model flywheel and clutch off a l300. I think anything after 1995 will do. It's been a while and could be a bit wrong on the year. But i still have the motor and plan on putting it in my lb lancer. Hope this helps. Good luck with the upgrades
I think you might be able to use a flywheel and clutch from a late model L300. I did that with my 7 stud RVR when i fitted it in a L300. No issues at all. Don't recall if I used the L300 starter motor as well and it should be later than a 95 model from memory. I also read that a heavy duty Sigma clutch also fits these flywheels. Can't confirm that though. Hope this helps.
thanks for the info. i'll look into that if what i have planned fails lol. I sourced an automatic flywheel from a 4g63 galant. the ring gear has the same ID as the evo flywheel but the OD is the right size. should do the trick. We'll see. i'll just have to get it balanced.
hey, im doing an evo 1-3 dohc 4g63t rwd swap into my 1974chrysler valient lancer la 4 door, was wondering if i needed a different cross member to mount the engine to and anything else i have to take into consideration thanks
As far as I am aware, Sohc 4g63 engine mounts work.
Problems you may have...
Thermostat stick out the back of engine. You will need to modify it and move it around the corner. I'm using an in-line bmw thermostat.
CAS also sticks out the back, You can get a crank sensor from an RVR if you're running an aftermarket ECU or an RVR ecu. But I'm just planning on "massaging" the firewall if it hits, hopefully there is enough space.
Flywheel.. evo 1-3 is a 7 bolt flywheel, the start wont match. You can either modify the bellhousing to sit the starter motor closer or find a suitable flywheel to work. I'm swapping the ring gear from the evo flywheel to a larger one. I can get the part number for the ring gear if you want.
Manifold... the turbo manifold is low mount and the turbo will hit the steering box etc. You need to top mount the turbo. other option is to use 4G64 extractors and mount a supercharger instead.
Gearbox options are limited. I'm just using a sohc 4g63 gearbox, but it's not very strong so I don't know how long it will last. I've read of someone swapping wideblock internals into the small block gearbox but there is no tutorial on this. Otherwsie you can use a supra gearbox if you can find the bellhousing from a mazda something with a 4g54 i believe.
Hey Guys, sorry i haven't posted in ages, the project went on hold while i dealt with a separation. But I'm back to it now.
So what I did was i ordered a larger ring gear that fits the EVO flywheel, so now the starter matches up with the L200 gearbox.
I did a test fit and it seems to sit higher than I thought it would using the SOHC 4g63 engine mounts, which is strange because looking in a forum it seemed the same engine with same mounts in a LB lancer sat lower.... anyway there isn't a lot of room so i thought I would move the engine forward. But looking at that steering arm I think I only have maybe 1 inch of room to move. I think it's worth doing though so I can keep the CAS where it is, an inch would make a fair amount of difference.
In other news I have purchased S13 coilovers, hubs, lower arms etc. At this stage I plan to put all that in, the lower arms are longer though so if the camber is too much I'll have to modify the existing arms to accept the s13 ball joint. worth it for brake and suspension upgrade.
I have also realised I have the L200 gearbox with the extended shifter, It will still work but I will have to cut out the hole for the shifter
I'll take a bunch of pictures over the weekend and upload them for you all
so we sat it in the engine bay 1.5" forward and as you can see it leaves enough room for the CAS. however even with the gearbox in the correct position it seems to be on some kind of lean. So i'm going to go ahead with custom engine mounts, but i'm also going to lower the engine 1" as well as moving it forward 1.5", hopefully that fixes the tilt. yes i accidentally bent that vacuum hose.
So in this position the drag link (cross rod) doesn't clear the bellhousing, but an engineer said he can bend it for like $100. I also need to have my driveshaft extended 50mm, it currently reaches but i would prefer it sat on more spline than it is.
Hopefully i'll get the engine mounts welded up this weekend and i don't know when i can get my parts into the engineer. I'll take more pics as i go
Thanks for the advice. A little update, I'm an idiot and mixed up the L200 engine mounts with the L300 engine mounts, which was why it sat on such an angle. the L200 ones fix that tilt.
Deleting the CAS sounds like a good idea, but i'm not keen to go aftermarket ecu yet. and moving the engine forward also allows me to keep the standard water flow through the engine.
So to update everyone on what is going on, I had the firewall professionally modified. The engine fits with plenty of room for CAS and water pipe out the back of the head. The heater unit also bolts right back into it's factory place so that worked out well and only cost me about $1000. Which I think was a good choice because now an evo motor can bolt straight in without the need for CAS deletion.
What's been done so far....
So the motor is in on factory L200 mounts.
Sigma 5 speed with the shifter part swapped with an L200 one.
EVO flywheel modified with larger ring gear to match factory starter position and drilled for a spigot bearing.
EVO HD clutch cover with FWD galant clutch plate.
Wiring is basically all done, just running factory ECU.
found a strange shaped front mount intercooler, fit's in that vented area down the bottom and hangs down lower.
lowered on 2" blocks and early rx7 springs in front.
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Things left to do....
having a custom top mount manifold made.
buy a turbo. Any suggestions?
having a full 3" stainless exhaust made.
get some s13 coilovers so i can run s13 LCA, brakes, etc. Will need custom camber plate for that.
get an LSD modified to fit.
install a surge tank.
order an L200 (or equivalent) power steering box from the USA (mirror image of our ones) will bolt straight in.
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Does anybody have any suggestions for what LSD diff i should go for? or what ratio would be best. I'm not familiar with this type of thing so some help would be appreciated.
Motor is meant to be on a lean from how it is in an east/west configuration, if you make the top of the motor flat technically it will be on a lean.
If i had seen this earlier i would of suggested the RVR SSG variant with the CAS, which ruins off the cam gear at the front.
Turbo wise, if your interested i havea genuine evo 2 td05 16g just rebuilt. got mani/lines/dump too but looks like you want a top mount mani.
