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is this for a track car or something

From what i understand getting good pads for the starion is a costly exercise, also Starion discs are very very expensive when compared to the falcon ones and im confident BA falcon rotors and good pads for nissan calipers will be available for a long time at a fair price. Also starion struts/calip...

The process is faster and cheaper than the tear down required for the timing chain on the 4G54 (there are some people who use the dodgy 'wire up and feed through' chain replacement method but you get whatever is coming to you when you take short cuts like this...). I guess you are right on a timing...

75wagon wrote:Have you got any pics of that method you used cheaterparts?

sorry I was very slack and didn't bother to take any pics -- My bad I guess

Me personally? I'd go for the G63B... I've put this up on a number of my previous posts as to why I'd go down this path - one is engine weight and at first glance look a lot like the G32B belt drive engine. IMO they are easier to work on due to the timing belt, and they are just as easy to service ...

75glnt wrote:Dohc 4g63 n/a with twin sidedraught webbers!

a nice way to go but not so simple - you still need some spark and the TC doesn't have a dizzy so must run a computor anyway

the 4G54 can easierly produce good power with great torque but they are a bit heavier than a 63

its a bit hard to see my front flares - but I just run a plasma cutter around the guard about 20 mm front the bottom edge leaving the last pieces at both ends conected them pulled the cut section out by hand measuring the distance ( we were aloud 50 mm per side ) I went 40 mm and then using stips of...

finally going to pull the motor out of the gallant and re do all the wiring, ive done it all before but now im going to hide it all along with now im going to do the efi conversion ive got an m7 head with tr magna gear. Ive decided I want to run high compression 13.1. best opition for head work wou...

sounds cool. its a 4g52 block, but the head gasket has about 3mm between the ID of the gasket ring and the bore.. yes now you pointed that out I can see the top of the bore - there was a post on copper head gaskets the reason I used one was so i could get a gasket that fitted the bores 2.6 gaskets ...

the bores are bigger than a 2 lt from the pics its a 2.6 ( or started as out as one ) and with no balance shafts like the canter truck and fork lift blocks
check the stroke if its a 90 mm then some one has done the old 2.4 lt job

Have 2 of these GPS - SMS Trackers , so even if they trailer it away, you can still find your car. Send it an SMS to remotely kill the engine or turn on the horn and lights etc... Cheers. Scott you would do better with a Spot Tracker or Epirb , it wouldn't help stopping your car being Knocked off b...

In theory, it doesn't make sense for it to work. There is no ring to compress and clamp down like a regular gasket. There is no O ring to bite in. Did you ever strip it down? Was there any evidence of combustion leaking out? yes the joys of a race engine - burnt hole in piston ( my fault to lean an...

Is your head and block O ringed? If they aren't O ringed then forget the copper gasket. Make sure you lay the gasket on the block and check that all the galleries match. Same with the head. I had to die grind a few out to open them up. Use a good sealant like 3 bond but get the correct grade for co...

some time ago when I was running a 2 lt I had a copper head gasket made by Ridgecrest eng

http://www.ridgecrest.com.au/

I had a 0.020" or about 0.5 mm copper gasket made with the 84 mm bores and it worked a treat

Obviously the more labour the owner puts in, the less the receipts amount too. Dave... this is something that of cause aways works true - I'd hate to think what my car would have cost me if I didn't do my own engineering work the same goes for the body work , a full respray inside and out cost me p...

GE Improved Production race car - it was built and log booked in 1999 so the costs would be higher today the car I already owned and had bought with a RWC a few years before for $1000 but I dont count this as part of the project as it was just my road car anyway the car was first built with a 2 lt w...

Hey cheaterparts how does your front track width compare to the rear, it is hard to tell from that pic. I have been told to try and get the front wider then the rear. just run a tape across the track front 1770 mm and rear 1670 so yes the car is a bit fatter across the front measurements were at gr...

PM scott ( superscan111) he's probably got some ideas on this in fact I think he is running programable ign on something atm

anyway he's nerdy enough to know how

Hey mate yeah I might stick with the 4g54 an just give it a spruce up you know of any places I can get pistons cam an gasket mit? Your local machine shop bloke will be able to get all the bits you need. The only drama was the cam. I sent mine to watson racing cams in sydney. They did a great job. I...

could someone direct me to a timing chain kit, ive already bought a balance shaft removal kit from melb, just wondering if anyone has bought timining kits off ebay. cheers I know Scott ( superscan111) picked up a few from the states off Ebay strangly enough I have never bought a timing chain kit an...

mr_sikma wrote:Hey guys,

Anyone know where I can get the adapter plate to run the EFI manifold on an Astron 1?

Thanks

you could just make one out of some 12 mm thick aluminium
all the top studs are in the same place this makes marking out pretty easy

for simple grunt stick with an astron - and tickle it up a bit

Lets assume you make the engine reliable, your going to need to upgrade the driveline because thats where the punishment coming from the engine is going. Things constantly break and your forever chasing your tail. If you want to go fast on a daily basis, get yourself something with a bit of poke to...

Astron 1: Valve timing = in. 18/54, duration = 252, . 075" duration = 204 , valve lift 0.454", power range 2000-5800rpm Astron II: Valve timing = in. 23/57, duration = 260, . 075" duration = 205 , valve lift 0.450", power range 2000-5800rpm these cams are almost the same theres ...

Hi guys went racing (motorkhana/khanacross) on the weekend. GK Scorpion the car understeers alot, it was suggest to get more negative camber and a bit of toe out. I tried playing with tyre pressure a fair bit, but it still understeers. have people attempted to lengthen the lower control arms/ or so...

the short answer is yes but mate them with a hyd cam - the ramps are ground different on a hyd cam to a solid

I use Koni adjustable strut inserts in the front of my GH, but have found that gas shocks in the rear are much to firm. With Munro Gas GT shocks in the rear are like having 4x2 timber in place of shocks. The car jumps around bumpy corners and rides like crap. So I use standard hydraulic in the rear...

Unfortunately I struck water with further straightening an intake port and never completed the head to running status. With the help of Cheaterparts, the later heads seem to have a bit more "meat" to remove before hitting the water ports. yes I band sawed a few heads up to see how they ha...

the bearing size and spacings are the same early right thought to late heads I was getting billet cams a while ago and all the cam blanks were for magna and all that was done was the extention for the water pump was cut off these fitted astron 1s as well as Billsy has said you may/will need to chang...

I am considering turning the shell of B1 into a Junior speedway car for my young fella once its stripped out of everything as i think the panel rust is too far gone to warrant a rescue... The engine limit is 1600cc's normally aspirated If i was looking for an engine and running gear that will bolt ...