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Good work! Electronics is always a bit of fun, particularly when you can't really see what's going on Thank goodness it wasn't one of the trannies (are we still allowed to call them that?) or an IC, as you can end up chasing your tail for yonks before finding the culprit!

I just double checked my fuse box, and there's no separate fuse for the hazards, just a single fuse for the turn signal (FYI, fuse 7, which is the last one on either the top or bottom... I never remember which way they go!). I've been thinking about the wiring some more, and would guess that the thr...

So sad that the Gal is stuck in the shed... I saw your ad and thought that's the saddest thing I've seen... hopefully things are good soon! What is it that you do anyway?

Just wondering if anyone's thinking of going to the Rock'n'Roll Rendezvous at Birdwood in a few weeks? It's usually a fun day, and it'd be good to see a few classic 4-cycl 70s muscle there that's not Mazda and Datsun :-)

Hmmm, that depends on what the 5 wires actually do, and what they're connected to. Are you sure that's the right loom/connector? I'll double check the wiring diagram tonight and work out what the cables are doing...

Yeah, without a can (and it does sound like yours is missing...), I would have expected the lights to come on. I can't remember if there is a separate fuse for the hazards, but I'll double check on mine a little later today...

Hmmm, that is strange indeed. As JV says, when you say auto crank, do you mean without turning a key? I'd be double checking continuity of the wires if you can: disconnect the battery first, then make some kind of loop tester (a long wire that you can drag around to/from the front to/from the main l...

Ha ha, nice to know what that top switch was intended for- on mine, it's been converted to a switch for a detatchable spotlight!
So how'd you go finding the plug Jordan? Or did the mozzies get the better of you? They're bad in Adelaide tonight too- it feels like Singapore out there!

Yep, if there's no flasher, it's easy to sort out. I have a feeling though that everything's there, apart from the switch :-) It's been a while (15+ years!) since I did it to one of my Gals though, so I could be wrong!

Here's some shots from the 2014 All Chrysler Day... great to see the S-Gs well represented!
http://www.sigma-galant.com/viewtopic.p ... 30#p108730

Ha ha, fun times with electronics! Sometimes it's easier to just start again... So, you have removed the alarm and all it's components completely? And is all the factory wiring back to normal? The parking/headlights issue is weird and may be non-related (perhaps due to a dodgey earth, as already sug...

I'm 99% sure that at the time GCs and GDs were released here, hazard lights were illegal in Australia (go figure?), but obviously that wasn't the case in Japan. Which would be why the hard-tops all have them there, but the sedans and wagons don't. But the good news is, the wiring should all be there...

Running Windows 95, of course...

On a more serious note, I haven't played around with this before, but from a theoretical view point, I don't think it'd be a difficult thing to achieve. It all depends on what's been defined as a variable and programmable input... Keen to hear how you go!

Ha ha, fun times! If you get a chance, I recommend getting de-soldering braid (it's basically like a copper shoelace), as it's slightly easier and more effective than a desoldering tool, but whatever you prefer...

Good luck with it!

HOw are you going with this one... I'd be inclined to think it was an issue with the temperature sensing device (thermocouple or thermistor), which will be located elsewhere. I'd be looking for leads from the PCB to the device, and perhaps look at changing the part (to test, you can always remove it...

Ooops, forgot to check the second page of this... and doubled up on Geezer's suggestion :-)

But I'd still check the vacuum advance and make sure the counterweights aren't leading to some kind of sticking too...

A swap to an electronic ignition is something I've been thinking about for a while, but never got around to... let me know how this goes! I do have some other thoughts though, as to your strangely changing dwell angle. Are you sure the points are getting screwed down properly and not moving (I've ha...

Hmmm, it's a little hard to say from looking at the PCB there... can you take a photo of the underside? Is the fault something that you can reset, and if so, how do you do it? This can help to narrow down what may be happening (and electronics is my game, so I'm happy to help with a bit of troublesh...

Haha, I'm with 75Wagon and Jono on this one... get some hex sockets. Definitely worth the investment! If you're cheap, just buy the one... in any case, you'll need it to re-torque the bolts when you put the head back on. Don't think you'll ever get it with an allen key!

Hey, I'm back from OS, so happy to help again :-) Looks like many of the questions have been addressed. I was going to suggest checking the vacuum lines, and possibly also check the vacuum advance setting too (to see when it pulls in; there's a small amount of adjustment on there to play with). With...

Hi all, I'm back from OS, so happy to keep helping :-) Yep, the condenser being stuffed is a likely scenario, but thankfully nice and easy to fix. I can't remember part numbers, but I run a Bosch part and Sprints had both types in stock last time I checked... $39 seems really really expensive for a ...

From memory, if there's no pull-button there, there should be a blank in the column cover. A previous GC of mine didn't have anything there to start with, but the button was easy to fit in the gap. I think hazards may have been illegal in Australia at that time, so none were actually fitted (I could...

You can definitely buy a new cable, and Flexible Drive Agencies either have them or can make them, but as far as getting parts, I'm not so sure. Perhaps give Flexible a call and see what they can sell you...

Nasty! Hopefully it's another easy fix. If RACQ is anything like RAA, I'd take what they say as a starting point and with a grain of salt... you may have no spark and perhaps it seems to be the coil, but could be something else :-) Check the points again in case they're stuck, and also the condenser...

Yep, some more details would be great :-) True, depending on your coil, you may not need a resistor. Some (many?) coils have sufficient internal resistance, making the external one redundant. Best to double check in the specs of your electrical system (most manuals have this info) what the R is supp...

Rare Spares is a good bet, though I haven't tried for window rubbers, so no guarantees. But definitely worth a try!

I'll be there in spirit only, watching on while I'm working across the Pacific in Argentina :-) See you all when I get back!

Is anyone going (or keen to go) to the All Chrysler Day and Mopar Megacruise at the end of March?

Ha ha, yep this is a fun job! As pointed out, sometimes the "ball joint removers" don't actually fit to the job you need... bashing is a good idea to get them out, but do make some kind of jig that supports the control arm and lets the joint go free. In the past, we've used a 20mm piece of...

Yeah, it's possible that the reading would be messed up, but quite possible that it'd be okay. I doubt that they'd change the tech behind the gauges or sensors (though it is possible), and even if they did, it would be relatively easy to correct. Most of them use some kind of current or voltage limi...

I agree with Geezer, I'm pretty sure they're the same across GA and GB, but not 100% certain. In any case, gauges are usually easy to change around with a very small amount of electronics (I helped my bro with some gauge conversions from a 6V VW Beetle to a 12V one). But I don't think you'd need to....