Sigma-galant.com

orangelancer wrote:Thanks for the link Scott. That looks great I'm going to buy it. Noob question is 1/8 gas thread the same as 1/8 npt?

I don't think so. 1/8 GAS = 1/8 BSPT. You can always just re-tap the thread in the block though.

Even with a part number, you probably won't find a listing anywhere for it. Does it have a pressure range on the dial of the gauge ?

In that case, will need to look up the operating range of the gauge in workshop manual and find a suitable sender .... either Tridon or VDO are bound to make one, but it probably won't be listed as being for a 4G32 or Lancer. There's a fair chance that other Jap cars of same era with oil pressure ga...

Yep, Tridon part TPS007 is the stock replacement oil pressure light switch for a 4G32. (Technically it's not really an "oil pressure sender" .... it's just a pressure-activated switch that earths the oil pressure warning light when it reaches a certain pressure). Does the LC have an oil pr...

Single sidedraught carbs are a PITA on a road car. They are really designed to have 1 barrel per cylinder, and the single carb manifolds rarely flow evenly. You will be far better off with either a good set of genuine twin downdraughts, or bolt a single 32/36 DFEV Weber onto the existing manifold vi...

A standard rebuild usually doesn't involve any significant machine work, unless the bores are scored & you need to go oversize. Usually a hone is all that's required, and even going 1st or 2nd o/s is a lot quicker than a massive overbore Boring & stroking a 4G30 is going to take significantl...

Probably in theory ....... anything is possible if you spend enough money ....... but why on earth would you want to, given you have a 4G32 available ? It will cost you a fortune in machine work, with the potential for heaps of things to go wrong. if you have that sort of budget, you would be better...

It's in the 4G32 workshop manual ... http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q121/gallax/Carb002_zpsae377bab.jpg Note - it's not really possible to tune a car accurately by ear ... even for expert tuners. At the very least, you need a tach and an AFR meter If you don't have the skills or equipment to do ...

Don't see why you couldn't ....... as I understand it the Australian factory workshop manual for the GC actually lists the 2L motor as an option, even though it was never released in Australia that way ? (same way the Chrysler Australia manual for the 4G32 motor shows the twincarb / GS version .... ...

Standard GC brakes should be fine if in good condition ... the 2L was the stock motor in them in Japan, remember! GC/GD Galant run the same front brakes as GE Sigma anyway. Put some decent pads & shoes on it, and replace your brake hoses (including the one from body to rear axle) ..... even new ...

Single sidedaughts tend to not run all that great unless they are on a good "crossover" style manifold (they are really designed to work in pairs - 1 throat per cylinder). I suspect that 1 x 40mm might even be a little small ? My suggestion would be to put a downdraught Weber on it - eithe...

Flywheel bolts hold the flywheel onto the crank = nothing to do with gearboxes.

Given that the 4 & 5 speed require no change in flywheel (as Dave said) ... then the answer to your question is obviously yes !

Pretty sure Lancer strut tops are 4 bolt vs. Galant 3 bolt ..... but why would you want to put Lancer struts in anyway ?

Seriously, not sure why you would bother putting them on a road car ? They will never be fuel efficient ...... and sidedraughts are often tricky to start & a PITA in traffic etc. I'll see if I can hunt out the info on how mine are jetted ..... & you really can't tune them properly unless you...

I run a set of these (40mm) on my GB rally car with a 4G32. Brilliant things. Once set up properly, they stay in tune better than Webers. Only downside really is that jets are harder to get locally (but easy & cheap from the USA) and not as many people know their way around them compared to Webe...

It's won't be a "GB" then .... it's a Colt Galant 16L !

Never released here, but they were imported (both fully assembled & knocked down) in reasonable numbers into NZ in the 70s, so it most likely came from there originally and was subsequently imported 2nd hand into Australia.

This may be a dumb question .... but given the car didn't have a ballast resistor originally, why didn't you just put a GT40 (or similar) in it rather than a GT40R + resistor ?

Another option ... my GB rally car has had a high-capacity core fitted to the original tanks. Any decent radiator place will be able to do this for you. There is no real advantage in using an alloy radiator.

That's a Mitsubishi (rather than Bosch) dizzy ..... and is a 4G32 GC/GD vintage unit ? (I had the same in my GB, which had a late engine in it ... GB ran Bosch dizzy from factory) Points = Bosch GM216 .... but GM210 also fit Condenser = GM556 Cap = GM347 Haven't got the box the rotor came in .... bu...

No idea

Never seen a TR alternator other than an 85A Bosch which has internal reg.

If it's a BOSCH 85A alternator for a TR Magna, they are definitely internally regulated. External regulator can be completely removed.

"L" wire goes to dash light
"S" wire goes to battery (as well as the main B+ cable)

GC are the same.

Good chance LA/LB/LC Lancer and GE Sigma also, seeing they use the same disc ?

GA/GB are different (twin piston caliper, rather than single piston sliding caliper)

Why not just get it rebuilt ? The parts are readily available.

head gasket would make little difference the head bolts are pretty heavy battery leads and are seated tight against both head and block same goes for the engine to gear box unless you are using plastic bolts you should have a pretty good contact through the bolts True, but they still earthed both h...

Yeah, that will be fine .... mine is 15A or 20A wire I think. It's not "essential" to separately earth the head, but not a bad idea (the head gasket effectively makes it not earthed through the block, or at least poorly earthed).

BOTH wires (battery to block, and block to chassis) should be "battery cable" size ... 8-10mm diameter. (25A wire is nowhere near good enough ... remember that both your starter motor and alternator are earthing through it). Note : The gearbox should be separately earthed to the body also ...

As long as the block & body are both connected by an earth strap, it doesn't matter electrically whether the -ve battery lead goes to the block or the body. Personally I prefer to run it to the body, to eliminate movement on the cable.

According to the workshop manual, the installed height of the valve springs (inlet & exhaust) in a 4G32 is 37.3mm (38.3mm max) Same for both the "stock" and "GS" springs. (Free length of the stock springs is 45.85mm, GS is 46.3mm .... GS springs have higher seat pressure, but...

... or just go back to stock valve springs. There's no advantage in running HD springs unless you are going to be running 6000+ rpm regularly, and with a stock cam profile you won't be. In any case, uprated springs if selected properly, shouldn't be any longer than stock ones - just stiffer ? I reck...

There are a couple of different condensors for the 4G32, depending on which dizzy it runs.

Is yours a Mitsubishi dizzy or a Bosch dizzy ?

The various aftermarket catalogues don't always list them correctly , either.

Note that there a couple of different "stock" 4G32 cams - identifiable by the number stamped on the rear end face of the cam. "1"= the stock cam in the early (GB/A53) 4G32, and also the 4G31 and 4G33. Total lobe height = 36.363mm intake / 36.412mm exhaust "6" = the stoc...