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all the brackets ,pump etc etc off a 4G32 colt should do it with an underdash unit from ebay or wreckers etc...

thanks for the edit whoever it was , maybe keep out of peeps posts if you cant even say "edited by .....because...."

no problem any time.....

So if I slacken off my chain, spin the cam around 1 turn and put the chain back on, that should be like, an extra 1900hp yeah?

no its to a maximum of 100 RWHP, I read it on the net so it must be true

yep each tooth is 50 RWHP give it a go......

or more realistically its degrees not teeth, and all is does is advance or retard you cam a little, spend some money on a proper and comprehensive tune up

whos "stage 3"? they are all different but its not a "stage 2" but it could be 3/4 race????

[quote="mstrrab1992"]so is it better to grind my cam or is it better to buy a stage 3 cam? or whatever stages dont mean squat..... one guys "stage"is another guys stock..... go off the actual measurements of the cam im not 100% sure when it comes to cams unless your an engine bui...

they are in the USA and should be reasonably common, go to the Classic Colt forum ,there is probably someone there that can help. The crank you mentioned might fit but there may be compatibility issues things like rear main seal differences or some other fairly minor irritation.

by davetrees » Thu Nov 03, 2011 7:54 pm
They're breather lines, not fuel lines. The fuel line comes out of the tank underneath the car on the LHS.
Breathers run from top of tank, up along under the parcel shelf, then connect to the filler pipe

??? why wouldnt you refit them as Dave said?

GC/CD being RHD cars ?? if you mean a second gen LHD car had a booster Id have no idea at all if it would fit but its doubtfull. Try it and see.

aircleaner wont be your biggest issue, I dont think you have room between the manifold and the body to fit the master cylinder in there? pretty sure Mits never made a boosted brake LHD Galant/Colt. Maybe a stand alone booster like a VH40 (or VH44 whichever one it is)

GD's no good you needed first gen Galant one, they were a factory fitment all you needed was the factory adapter

ah ha! I can see it now probably a tad easier to use a 16L/GTO/GS mount on the firewall so it all clears... but I guess that works

I didnt put that silly bracket on that holds the master cly from moving (from lancer) as well to me its all a tight fit and doesnt move what so ever well you should fit it , its there for a reason , to stop flex, doesnt have much to do with how it feels its about the brake force exerted on the pedal...

dont spose anyone knows if they have a stand alone computer?

pretty much all I know about Fords is I wouldnt own one.... on this occasion I think Google is right, if there was a 4 speed BW35 similar box it would be a well known thing as the BW35's are in just about everything (worldwide, not just here) and everyone would be looking at a 4 speed option. Maybe ...

google says for the EA:
Borg-Warner Model M51 three-speed automatic transmission was offered, however the latter was replaced by a four-speed BTR Model 85SXLE

a manual is not the choice of box for Sydney traffic.....i fact they suck in heavy traffic. For crusing and commuting they are hard to beat.
Dont know what a 41 is but a 40 is 3 speed H/D... all the similar 35 ish ones are 3 speed. Id like to have a go at a CVT box

? have you rung your local (if you can find one) bumper exchange place? thats where you will get a price. If you have to get yours fixed it will be over $200 but youll have to ring a plater that does bars for an exact price.....

best bet is what bolts in - Mits 4/5 speed - anything else and your looking at custom bellhousings, weird clutches ,special speedo cables ,custom mounts.... $$$$$$$$$$ why not the mazda engine as well????

unless your shopping in Australia I cant help, however there is nothing available "off the shelf" anyway, best bet is to see your local cam grinder and ask his recommendation. Dont go too big or it will be a dog.

maybe but dont use a cam of those specs as its a "pollution" cam (same as the crappy No6 or it is a No6) use the specs for the earlier "sports" No2....

dual downs are off either a saturn powered GTO, a Lancer GSR or maybe another weirdo Japanese Saturn engined model, earlier ones are non EGR type

engine (carbs, cam,valve springs, distributor, fan), exhaust from the cast headers down, front springs I think?, badges, trim , dash, brake booster maybe some other stuff.... this is for first gen Galant

What about RA53H-070xxxx and A53H-102xxx. Whats with the 'R'.

I think thats a NZ car, find someone from over there to look in an NZ factory book to confirm other comes up as '72 "custom" ? no other detail as yet

GB_BB4C wrote: A53H-xxxxxx (x=number's - what do they stand for though)

"A53H" then the next 2 mean something (Dodge is A53H 9x xxxx think????) others are production number, dont have my books with me so i wont be able to check for at least 3 weeks.....

the chassis number is on the firewall behind the head , pretty sure thats for all markets except Australian made cars, check for a secondary chassis number on either strutt tower, or a US style vin on the dash top near a lower corner of the windscrean. it is a '73. Fairly sure only Oz cars had plate...

LA's dont have an options plate just a small rectangular plate with the paint code on the LHS attached to a screw on the pleneum cover, find the code for Lancer in '74 there will only be one colour (and its a pretty crappy silver anyway)

dont spose you did a search with "paint codes" ??

ADR plate, No no ADR plate (assuming its not been removed) means its not been officially imported by Chrysler, more likely imported by a Chrysler Dealer from NZ (looks like an NZ car???) No ADR plate can cause you issues even if you can prove previous rego :( Edit Chrysler dealers did dodgy imports...