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not many sigmas at wreckers in tassie, youd have to get the proper bolts new from somewhere?
can someone tell me how long they are, what thread and how long the shank is? im sure nubco
will have what i need... also i believe the tailshaft flange is hubcentric, the bolts dont actually locate it

if i had either on hand i would, but seeing as i have to go out and buy some i figured that one might be better than the other

hey guys,

lol "jap tranny fluid" sounds gross but whats the best oil to use in my jap box? service manual says sae 75w/85w... but ive noticed some oils are "fully synthetic for smoother shifting"? lol what oil should i get for the best driving experience?

cheers,
rob

hey guys, i lost the bolts i took out of my tailshaft ages ago and just used regular ones and im pretty sure theyre stretched now, i was gunna get some high tensile bolts but dont quite know what to ask for, my understanding of bolts is that i used a 12mm spanner to get em off so whats the manliest ...

well, after putting of working in the rain for ages i decided to just layer up and get over it, at least now the siggy is back on the road with a jap 5 speed and exedy clutch.. curiously i used the b/w yoke as the "jap 5 speed" one i had was too small, ill have to try it in my spare narrow...

i never put any pics up of my 2.5" exhaust..

cheers, yea the xylene worked beautifully but i only used it on the glass ive been to lazy to get it off the body yet so thanks for the suggestion

nice.. could we get a pic of underneath the bonnet? i havent done mine yet and was wondering if any of the braces get in the way

if i didnt have proper turbo vents i would have got some of these http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C42-030/ but yea, your car looks better without those vents.. sorry

celeste GSR... yummy

i think those bonnet vents should be the other way around like a NACA duct.. otherwise your going to be pulling air out instead of pushing it in...i dunno what your trying to do though, and my knowledge of thermodynamics is limited

cheers, i'll try kero on the paint and xylene on the glass... wish me luck
its off to my mates later this week for him to put his 9" buffer on her and see how she comes up

hey guys.. so my car was parked under a pine tree for a while... i didnt think anything of it at the time, i washed it today and its covered in hardened pine resin or sap or whatever :( soooo.... anyone had any luck removing/dissolving hardened resin or sap from paint and glass? a quick search says ...

im gunna check the battery post on the solenoid for contiuity to the starter housing as soon as i can find my multimeter

hey guys.. i thought my battery was on the way out because it goes flat overnight... but recently the screws that hold the plastic back piece onto my starter solenoid worked loose and i couldnt start it unless i pushed it up against the solenoid while my mate turned the key.. the battery stayed char...

a magna carby should bolt straight onto your manifold

ps if you follow my advice than the "upper cylinder outlet" (not its conventional name :p) is a non-issue, just use the right gasket

ahh yes... have you noticed the bottom studs dont line up to the holes in the manifold yet? you need an astron II head.. which will lower the compression even more than an astron I 2.6 head, i run an Astron II head on my Astron I 4g54 and the compression ratio is ~6.7:1, i wouldnt recommend running ...

im currently in the proccess of fitting GK LCA's so i get a 60mm wider front track and 2ish degrees of camber

should be good fun

Whichever type of sensor arrangement you use, wire in an "over-ride" switch as well, so if the sensor fails you can manually switch the fan on. I've wired the one in my car so that a small LED pilot light on the dash comes on whenever the fan kicks in - just so you know it's working. my o...

i bought the closed ended nuts and just lathed the tops off

umm.. changing to a 4g54 head wont swap the thermostat housing to the other end... im assuming you have a magna efi manifold?? the magna thermostat housing wont clear the firewall, use a sigma one and get an old vacuum cleaner metal pipe and use that to join a couple hoses to reach the radiator also...

why do you want longer studs? my LB came with longer 1/2" studs instead of the 12mm ones in the diff and i never quite understood why

standard sigma turbo setup?? i was blowing through a 32/36 weber and i had a horrible time trying to get it to run right, i think it was mainly the progressive throttle... i had some results using a 350 holley... where both butterflys open at the same time, but now ive got a haltech :) ive heard suc...

your 1600 is a 4g32, completey different engine to the 4g62 or 4g63 a 4g62 (1.8L) or a 4g63 (2.0L) engine will bolt up to your gearbox, and you can get engine mounts from a rwd that uses the same motor. problems will be with clearances for the thermostat housing and possibly the CAS that are now on ...

good point, just goes to show how much i know about carbs... haltech ftw!... but yea im just repeating what ive heard

ive never heard of anyones car actually been burned... but if the needle and seat gets jammed open... the float gets stuck... if the fuel bowl floods for any reason its got a fuel vent/overflow thats open to atmospher... im pretty sure from factory they come with a drip tray underneath them for that...

ive never used them but i have a pair of cd175's off a volvo if anyone needs them for parts
i remember hearing they could be a bit of a fire hazard if you arent carefull.. fuel overflows through the vents or something?

theyre not fail-safe.. theyre fail-burn your car down

cheers,
rob